Using Manuel Settings (Page 2): MaryAnn, I think you are possibly confusing shutter speed with built in timer. The 10 & 2 second settings are delays, NOT shutter speeds. These settings...

DOOK Loc: Maclean, Australia

MaryAnn, I think you are possibly confusing shutter speed with built in timer. The 10 & 2 second settings are delays, NOT shutter speeds. These settings make the camera take the shot 10 or 2 seconds after you press the shutter. You use them if you want to be in the photo, or to avoid camera shake when using a slow shutter speed on a tripod. These would have had nothing to do with your problem. Maybe you had a super slow shutter speed &/or a huge aperture & the shots were just blown out to whiteness. Earl.

andywilk38 Loc: Cambridge UK

MaryAnn, you were on '10', which means 1/10th of a second. As many have pointed out, that would be massively over-exposed or blown out for a sunny day.

Later on you say that the 'look' you're wanting to go for (according to what you've seen on YouTube) would require a 2 second exposure. For that, on a sunny day, you'd be into the realms of requiring a hefty light-stopping filter.

You can transfer the exposure information from Shutter or Aperture modes to Manual mode as a starting point (or use the light meter in Manual mode) but you're real investment would be to spend time in uderstanding the Exposure Triangle...if at first it seems daunting, stick with it - it is absolutely the key to your photographic success, enjoyment, creativity. There are loads of people and resources that will help you, and once that penny drops you'll be rejoicing.

Don't know Canons, but the only time I've seen 'there are no images' is when there's no memory card in the camera!

Good luck

winterrose Loc: Kyneton, Victoria, Australia

SharpShooter wrote:

I think your shot was probably COMPLETLY blown out.
It's called "paper white"! :lol:
Next time shoot a shot on auto and use those settings on manual, or use a light meter. Good luck
SS

Ummmmm....why take a shot on auto then use the same settings to shoot in manual? What advantage is there in doing that?

andywilk38 Loc: Cambridge UK

At an elementary level it demonstrates that the two readings obtained from the auto modes will yield the same result when keyed in to manual, just like explaining in maths lesson one that 2x3 is the same as 3x2.

It was also explained that the light meter could be used in Manual mode.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

If you were at 10 seconds and everything else was ok (the smallest possible apeture lowset possible ISO) and you got a picture, it would have so much motion blur that you would not see any waves just motion trails. It might even be interesting. But a wave is moving. If you want a picture of a wave, you need a fast shutter speed. 1/500 or faster depending on wave speed.

Addyrose

I have an SX50. I use the built in histogram quite a bit and have have also learned if I hold the shutter button half way down I can see what the picture will look like and adjust from what I see on the screen. I am learning and the best thing I have learned is to take time to compose and adjust

Addyrose

I have an SX50. I use the built in histogram quite a bit and have have also learned if I hold the shutter button half way down I can see what the picture will look like and adjust from what I see on the screen. I am learning and the best thing I have learned is to take time to compose and adjust my shots. Speed will come later.

NoSocks Loc: quonochontaug, rhode island

dsmeltz wrote:

If you were at 10 seconds and everything else was ok (the smallest possible apeture lowset possible ISO) and you got a picture, it would have so much motion blur that you would not see any waves just motion trails. It might even be interesting. But a wave is moving. If you want a picture of a wave, you need a fast shutter speed. 1/500 or faster depending on wave speed.

The way I interpret her objective is to keep all in the photo sharp except the motion of the wave, which she is trying to soften, hence the longer shutter speed. All else aside, she is not going to get a photograph of anything on a sunny day at the beach with a 1/10 exposure. She needs a hefty neutral density filter and that's that.

pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY

andywilk38 wrote:

At an elementary level it demonstrates that the two readings obtained from the auto modes will yield the same result when keyed in to manual, just like explaining in maths lesson one that 2x3 is the same as 3x2.

It was also explained that the light meter could be used in Manual mode.

Right on Andy it's called learning. And to take it one step further, let the OP take the shot in auto and write down the settings chosen. Then put the camera in either shutter or priority mode. Let's choose aperture. Then move the aperture dial through the values and let the camera put the shutter. Unless you are in some bizarre light conditioning all the shots will be "correct." In the case of aperture it will be a lesson in depth of field.

You can then do the same in shutter priority and run the gamut.

A great first step to understanding how the settings affect the picture. I'm not ignoring ISO, just trying to keep it simple for starters.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

NoSocks wrote:

The way I interpret her objective is to keep all in the photo sharp except the motion of the wave, which she is trying to soften, hence the longer shutter speed. All else aside, she is not going to get a photograph of anything on a sunny day at the beach with a 1/10 exposure. She needs a hefty neutral density filter and that's that.

She said was using a speed of 10 not 1/10. The t3i has a shutter speed range of 1/4,000 to 30. A setting of 10 is more that a little softening.

NoSocks Loc: quonochontaug, rhode island

dsmeltz wrote:

She said was using a speed of 10 not 1/10. The t3i has a shutter speed range of 1/4,000 to 30. A setting of 10 is more that a little softening.

I agree. I can't fathom a ten second exposure at the beach even at night with a full moon.

pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY

dsmeltz wrote:

She said was using a speed of 10 not 1/10. The t3i has a shutter speed range of 1/4,000 to 30. A setting of 10 is more that a little softening.

Now wait. My old xti is in a closet someplace but my newer canon shows 10 meaning 1/10. They DO NOT show the "/". So when she says 10 she means 1/10.

Drala2k Loc: Vermont

Maryann,

It may help to use Auto and then move to the Aperture or Shutter speed to set your exposure before getting into full manual. That was the good advice a very good photographer gave me. That way you can get a good feel for how that works. If in aperture you can set the aperture to where you need and the shutter will be adjusted by the cameras auto settings and visa verse.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

pithydoug wrote:

Now wait. My old xti is in a closet someplace but my newer canon shows 10 meaning 1/10. They DO NOT show the "/". So when she says 10 she means 1/10.

On the screen my t3i shows 1/10. In the view finder, I think it shows 10 for 1/10. So it really depends on what she was looking at. When she simply said 10, with no other information, I assumed she meant 10 instead of 1/10.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

MaryAnn wrote:

I have a Canon T3i and a Canon SX 50 HS. I shoot ... (show quote)

I haven't read all the replies, but using a dark ND filter, like a 10-stop, would help.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/10-Stop-Neutral-Density-Filter.aspx