Cracker-barrel Philosopher wrote:
Keep in mind, the size of the sensor doesn't affect the magnification of any lens. As Ansel pointed out decades ago, a 200 is a 200 is a 200 regardless of whether it's attached to a 35mm camera or a 4x5. Superimposed on a light table, the images on the film will coincide perfectly it's just that the 4x5 will include much more around your subject. But, again, the main subjects will coincide.
So, a 1.6x crop because the sensor is not full frame is just that, a 1.6x crop and doesn't "make" a 400mm lens into a 560. The 400 is still a 400 on the camera with 1.6x sensor compared to FF, but will isolate the main subject and include less stuff around your main subject.
It's surprising how many even older photographers don't know this.
Keep in mind, the size of the sensor doesn't affec... (
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I am an older photographer (been shooting since 1957) and I got my first digital when they first came out then upgraded to a Nikon D70s (cropped sensor) then to a D7100. The Cropped sensor cameras tend to be lighter, less expensive and yes they do NOT change the focal length but crop the image as you shoot just as it would crop on the enlarger or other post processing but, it DOES give the appearance of increasing the focal length of a lens by 1.6 which in effect is the same as a 1.6 tele-convertor without the loss of f/stop. Is it cheaper than a tele-convertor? No! but it IS compatible with ALL lenses where a tele-converter is not. As I mentioned, many pros carry both for this reason. It is a personal choice, I made mine based on finances and purchased the body that allowed me to have an additional $1000 to purchase lenses. When I get the chance, I WILL buy a full frame camera with the knowledge that all of my lenses will work (even though a few are DX lenses and will only work in crop mode on the FX) but I will also keep my DX camera as it will provide me that great instant extra 1.6 crop in my images. Remember that sometimes, you cant judge the images because they are beyond the lens to see and the 1.6 imaginary magnification can be the difference between getting the shot and not seeing it on a long lens.. a 400mm lens becomes an "apparent 660 mm lens" just by putting it on a camera body that cost you half as much.
Splitting hairs, but Nikon's crop is 1.5 and Canon's is 1.6. Not that it matters since with an optical viewfinder, what you see is what you get (if your body shows 100%) If not, then your back panel shows you what you got. Cheers.
Fotomacher wrote:
Splitting hairs, but Nikon's crop is 1.5 and Canon's is 1.6. Not that it matters since with an optical viewfinder, what you see is what you get (if your body shows 100%) If not, then your back panel shows you what you got. Cheers.
True, I was just using his numbers rather than trying to get into the corrections. As stated, the 80-400 mm lens on a 1.5 crop DX camera gives an apparent range of 120-600mm lens and you can see what you are shooting in the viewfinder vs pointing in that direction with an FX camera and hoping to enlarge and crop after the fact. I am not saying that Full Frame is bad, I am just saying that if you are driving a finishing nail you don't usually use a sledge hammer to drive it. DX cameras, like FX cameras have places in shooting. McNally, Mike Coradid, and tons of really good professionals use both as needed.
dcampbell52 wrote:
True, I was just using his numbers rather than trying to get into the corrections. As stated, the 80-400 mm lens on a 1.5 crop DX camera gives an apparent range of 120-600mm lens and you can see what you are shooting in the viewfinder vs pointing in that direction with an FX camera and hoping to enlarge and crop after the fact. I am not saying that Full Frame is bad, I am just saying that if you are driving a finishing nail you don't usually use a sledge hammer to drive it. DX cameras, like FX cameras have places in shooting. McNally, Mike Coradid, and tons of really good professionals use both as needed.
True, I was just using his numbers rather than try... (
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A DX camera isn't
needed, or even particularly useful, especially by a professional, if size/weight is not an issue.
Hi Amehta,
I have to agree that except for magnifying the image in the viewfinder, and perhaps autofocusing an AFS (motor in the lens) lens faster because the image to be focused on appears larger to the sensor, the larger crop factor of a smaller sensor doesn't add anything to the final image. Just about all the tests I have run with cameras using the same lens on different sensors indicates that a cropped image from a larger sensor is every bit as good or better than the equivalent full image from the camera with a smaller sensor and larger crop factor. The cameras range from 10 to 14MP.
Some people are predicting the mirrorless cameras will surpass the FX cameras at some point and maybe they will. But I don't think it has happened yet.
Bob
amehta wrote:
A DX camera isn't needed, or even particularly useful, especially by a professional, if size/weight is not an issue.
Bram boy
Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Cdouthitt wrote:
Even easier with m4/3. 2x
it's even easier with a fixed lens point an shoot
amehta wrote:
A DX camera isn't needed, or even particularly useful, especially by a professional, if size/weight is not an issue.
Hmm so extending what you say, a FF camera is not useful by a professional who shoots medium format and a medium format camera is not useful by a professional who shoots large format....
:?:
Bram boy
Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Edmund Dworakowski wrote:
I both Nikon D300s and Nikon D800. Because my 300s was already 6 years old, I wanted a camera with updated technology. The jump from 12 MP to 36 MP was a real eye opener and worth the price of admission. I purchased a refurbished D800 and 24-70 f2.8 from Nikon and the discount was significant. As far as picture quality is concerned, I think that the "average" person would hardly know the difference, but to a photographer with experience, the resolution is nothing short of amazing !
I shoot mostly landscapes, and the change was worth the money. Now I can shoot some billboards too !
I both Nikon D300s and Nikon D800. Because my 300s... (
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the average person could care less , life is more than a bunch of pixels . and reaching out for more clarity and resolution . a lot of people become obsessed
with there cameras . so much so that's it's not natural . it's nothing more than a black box . that records images , and it's been around for a couple hundered years . it's almost funny reading comments . but in a way, its sad also
is this the meaning of life
Bram boy
Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
Fotomacher wrote:
Many of the "hogs" have already heard me gush over the benefits of using both (Nikon) FX and DX bodies. I am using a D300s and D700. The engineers at Nikon were smart enough to design these bodies with identical ergonomics and menus so, for me, it's a no-brainer. All of my glass is FX so I can shoot just about everything. I have a range of lenses from 17mm to 300mm (450mm on DX). Some of the lenses are used and I have found really good deals on AF-D glass - again a plus for Nikon since the F mount is basically unchanged since 1959. My "workflow" in the field is a cinch from wide angle landscapes to up close macro. I recommend this approach for anyone who is really serious. I learned from a pro I hired to schlep me around Alaska.
Many of the "hogs" have already heard me... (
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your right there is a lot of gushing and boasting to
jd7000 wrote:
amehta wrote:
A DX camera isn't needed, or even particularly useful, especially by a professional, if size/weight is not an issue.
Hmm so extending what you say, a FF camera is not useful by a professional who shoots medium format and a medium format camera is not useful by a professional who shoots large format....
:?:
Is a medium format camera operationally similar to a FF DSLR? Or is a view camera operationally similar to a medium format camera? Of course not. Is the FF operationally similar to the APS-C? Absolutely. That makes the extension completely meaningless.
My point is that there is rarely a reason to have
both. There are plenty of people for whom the APS-C (or m4/3) camera is a perfect fit. And there is a smaller group for whom the FF is a good choice. But I think there is little gained by having both.
Bram boy
Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
actigner wrote:
I said it was "perceived" and that all that is happening is the lens capture is being visually "cropped" as it hits the sensor. I don't disagree that you can get the same image by cropping a full frame. Many people like the cropped sensor cameras because they are faster (FPM) that full frames in the same price zone.
also that is all they can afford , or not willing so spend $3000 for a camera
and another $2000 or more for a zoom or $4000 for a 400 mm
prime just to take pic of a few birds , a 70-300 mm or a 15-600 mm won't brake the bank . and they will get shots that they couldent with a Dx with a
18- 115 mm or 200 mm. at least it will get them out and about . or is that perceived also .
After five pages, I realize what I have to do is spend $150 to rent a 6D and a 24-70 lens and actually shoot side by side with my 7D in a low-light setting.
Much thanks to you, Steve Stoneblossom ... I visited the links you suggested and I saw the different numbers, but really, they are just numbers. I need to know what it translated to in images, if I am contemplating spending $1000-$1600 for a refurb or new 6D.
You say you see a "significant difference" ... but whether a significant difference to you is worth $1600 to me, I guess only I can decide. I tried the cheap and lazy route; now I accept that I have to do the work and spend the money and find out.
SonnyE
Loc: Communist California, USA
LaoXiang wrote:
After five pages, I realize what I have to do is spend $150 to rent a 6D and a 24-70 lens and actually shoot side by side with my 7D in a low-light setting.
Much thanks to you, Steve Stoneblossom ... I visited the links you suggested and I saw the different numbers, but really, they are just numbers. I need to know what it translated to in images, if I am contemplating spending $1000-$1600 for a refurb or new 6D.
You say you see a "significant difference" ... but whether a significant difference to you is worth $1600 to me, I guess only I can decide. I tried the cheap and lazy route; now I accept that I have to do the work and spend the money and find out.
After five pages, I realize what I have to do is s... (
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Probably a good idea. We have friends who car shop that way.
They rent a ride and drive it around or take a weekender with it. Then they know for sure if they want to put the cash on the barrel head.
Good luck.
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