Jim S
Loc: Barrington RI, DC now Hilton Head,
I have to focus at the camera but that scares them away. I tried pre-focusing but that doesn't get sharpness where I want it - i.e. , on the eyes.
OK pros and anyone better than me - what is the secret, suggestions ?
Thanks everyone
Jim S wrote:
I have to focus at the camera but that scares them away. I tried pre-focusing but that doesn't get sharpness where I want it - i.e. , on the eyes.
OK pros and anyone better than me - what is the secret, suggestions ?
Thanks everyone
I would suggest you check out the UHH True Macro Section.
For myself, I've spent an hour (sometimes more) sitting on the ground (low profile) waiting for them to return to their perch. Early morning is also a good time, before the sun has warmed their wings.
At least half the fun (for me) is taking the time to study their behaviour and predict where they will land. With respect to actually taking the photo: A true macro lens is helpful & at least 100mm... 150mm better with hard to approach flying insects. I always have my technical stuff already preset: ISO, shutter duration, aperture, flash setting so all I'm concerned with is framing, focus, and tripping the shutter.
First, ply the butterfly with liquor....
Shooting true macro-photographs of active insects is quite challenging, and frustrating.
I have found success with two different strategies:
1.) Shoot very early in the morning, when most insects, including butterflies, are too cold to move;
2.) Shoot butterflies immediately after they eclose from their chrysalis, when they literally hang for about 1-hour as their wings stretch and dry.
Dew-covered butterfly, early morning
Just eclosed butterfly
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Just eclosed butterf, cropped
Bret
Loc: Dayton Ohio
Find yourself a good food source and have a seat. I mount my camera on a mono pod...with a cable release and wait.
Basil wrote:
First, ply the butterfly with liquor....
Agree. It is a sure way to get them to spread their wings.
I also agree that checking in with the true macro forum is a good idea.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-102-1.html
Jim S
Loc: Barrington RI, DC now Hilton Head,
Basil wrote:
First, ply the butterfly with liquor....
LOL - I do that to me 1st!!
CHOLLY
Loc: THE FLORIDA PANHANDLE!
Good advice all the way around. :thumbup:
Jim S wrote:
I have to focus at the camera but that scares them away. I tried pre-focusing but that doesn't get sharpness where I want it - i.e. , on the eyes.
OK pros and anyone better than me - what is the secret, suggestions ?
Thanks everyone
Jim, let me see if I can answer your question about focus as opposed to other things. To begin with, I use rear camera button focus. That way the shutter button never activate the lens focus system. You can also accomplish that by turning off the AF after you do your initial focusing. Initial focusing is done so you can get a relatively sharp image at your framing position you determine to be best. From that point on, it's a matter of moving your camera closer or further away until the eye is sharp. Probably the most important thing I can mention is make sure the eyelevel finder diopter is adjusted for your eye. Really Important!!! Here are a few examples and a view of the diopter adjust wheel. Best, J. Goffe
Diopter adjusting wheel
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Butterfly close up
Glasswing Butterfly
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Download)
Outstanding pics! Thanks for sharing.
Nikonian72 wrote:
Shooting true macro-photographs of active insects is quite challenging, and frustrating.
I have found success with two different strategies:
1.) Shoot very early in the morning, when most insects, including butterflies, are too cold to move;
2.) Shoot butterflies immediately after they eclose from their chrysalis, when they literally hang for about 1-hour as their wings stretch and dry.
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
One of the members of a nature photo club I belonged to would buy eggs and hatch them out. When they were fully grown he would kill them and mount them then photograph them. H e won a lot of prizes until his methoud came out then he was barred from competition.
Jim S
Loc: Barrington RI, DC now Hilton Head,
the f/stops here wrote:
Jim, let me see if I can answer your question about focus as opposed to other things. To begin with, I use rear camera button focus. That way the shutter button never activate the lens focus system. You can also accomplish that by turning off the AF after you do your initial focusing. Initial focusing is done so you can get a relatively sharp image at your framing position you determine to be best. From that point on, it's a matter of moving your camera closer or further away until the eye is sharp. Probably the most important thing I can mention is make sure the eyelevel finder diopter is adjusted for your eye. Really Important!!! Here are a few examples and a view of the diopter adjust wheel. Best, J. Goffe
Jim, let me see if I can answer your question abou... (
show quote)
I understand but here is what I am driving at. The butterflies do not like me near them. So how can I be sure I have good focus? Do I need to use a "hide". If I pre-focus not sure that is where they'll land to be in perfect focus.
Make sense?
Jim S wrote:
I have to focus at the camera but that scares them away. I tried pre-focusing but that doesn't get sharpness where I want it - i.e. , on the eyes.
OK pros and anyone better than me - what is the secret, suggestions ?
Thanks everyone
Well, here is what I like to do, and let me state my way is not for everybody!!
I use a camranger and sit in another room, or far away from the subject so there is no way I can scare away any insect. I use the Nikon 105 2.8 Micro(Macro). I pre-focus, or can use focus stacking with the camranger, but focusing scares away insects. As someone said it can be fun to try and predict which flower they will land on, and focus there. Or you can add a drop of honey, sugar water etc. and try to influence their decision.
I also buy some flowers once a month to attract the insects. Note I get points because my wife thinks I bought them for her!!
Jim S wrote:
I understand but here is what I am driving at. The butterflies do not like me near them. So how can I be sure I have good focus? Do I need to use a "hide". If I pre-focus not sure that is where they'll land to be in perfect focus.
Make sense?
Jim, I use a 100mm macro or a 150mm macro so I'm not on top of them. I also enjoy sitting 15-20 feet from a popular bush with a 400mm lens with a 1.4X extender. Hope that helps and I hope you have fun. After all, that's what it's about. Best, J. Goffe
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