Re: different color temperatures

I use flash to illuminate the interior, so it is the same color temperature as the exterior. If the interior ambient light is sufficently underexposed, then both interior and exterior are the same color temperature, since in this case, flash is the only light source for the interior.

If there is enough ambient incandescent light in the room, I would still keep the camera on a daylight or flash setting and let the interior go warm. If I want the interior ambient light (like a bright light bulb) to show but need to add some illumination with flash to supplement the interior incandescent light, then I use a cto gel on the flash to make is approximately as warm as the incandescent lights.

Basic idea is, I can control the exposure of the interior, but not the exterior (unless I gel the windows!). So I expose for the exterior light coming through the windows, and adjust the ambient interior light sources and my flash until I am happy with the results.

Re: different color temperatures

I use flash to illuminate the interior, so it is the same color temperature as the exterior. If the interior ambient light is sufficently underexposed, then both interior and exterior are the same color temperature, since in this case, flash is the only light source for the interior.

If there is enough ambient incandescent light in the room, I would still keep the camera on a daylight or flash setting and let the interior go warm. If I want the interior ambient light (like a bright light bulb) to show but need to add some illumination with flash to supplement the interior incandescent light, then I use a cto gel on the flash to make is approximately as warm as the incandescent lights.

Basic idea is, I can control the exposure of the interior, but not the exterior (unless I gel the windows!). So I expose for the exterior light coming through the windows, and adjust the ambient interior light sources and my flash until I am happy with the results.

Trace,
Before you go into expending a lot of hard earned money you should understand what is currently going on with your Oly camera for indoor shots. When you set up for “Backlit” subjects the camera measures the exposure for the bright light, then sets the exposure to under expose the scene, when you press the shutter the flash fires and “fills in” the room. Olympus had this feature in their OM-4 series film cameras and controlled the flash through the lens (ETTL). Olympus may do this by controlling the flash illumination power, Canon and Nikon may do this by instant Aperture adjustments; so you really have to look closely at what you want to achieve and how it can be performed.

One alternative is to shoot the room from an angle that does not include a naked window. Another alternative is to purchase a set of studio strobes to create the fill in light, set the camera for under exposing the window, and allow the strobes to expose the room. A finale alternative is to set the camera up for High Dynamic Range (HDR) exposures. HDR requires a minimum of three exposures with the following parameters:
1 exposure at +1Ev, 1 exposure at 0Ev, and 1 exposure at -1Ev. (The over and under exposures must have the same range numerically. It is important to have the mid exposure at 0Ev. The camera will capture three images at the pre-set exposure values.

With Post Processing software (PP) you will need the HDR application, this will open all three images, set them as Layers, and allow you to adjust the exposure ranges from all three image files and merge them into one final product. You are in effect lowering the over exposed window light, and boosting the indoor ambient light. Different camera manufacturers vary the number of images they will capture for HDR processing, and some will allow you to set the number of images, from 3 to 7, or more. The technical term for this function is called Exposure Compensation with Bracketed Images.

Personally, for large empty rooms I use HDR, for medium sized rooms I use an external flash on a flash bracket set to ETTL, and for smaller rooms I use the camera onboard flash set to Program and allow the camera to control the exposure.

The key is to study, carefully, your overall requirements and then purchase the equipment that will allow you to accomplish the tasks. Most, modern, DSLR cameras have the ability to capture HDR bracketed images, and most current digital editing software has the ability to PP for HDR merging.

Good luck,

Michael G

I love Whitefish. Mom and Dad moved there in 1985--after paying out of state tuition for 4 years in Bozeman--and moved to Great Falls in 2006. They lived on Karrow Avenue on ten acres they bought in the early 60's for about $5 grand.

My grandfather's family (Dad's dad) settled in the Flathead in 1893 and, though I grew up in the Seattle area, we spent a lot of time in the Flathead and up the North Fork when I was a kid. I'd love to see your pictures from the area.

Dad was very involved with the Whitefish Historical Society when he lived there. If, by chance, you were involved as well, let me know and I'll pass along his name.

Re: different color temperatures

I use flash to illuminate the interior, so it is the same color temperature as the exterior. If the interior ambient light is sufficently underexposed, then both interior and exterior are the same color temperature, since in this case, flash is the only light source for the interior.

If there is enough ambient incandescent light in the room, I would still keep the camera on a daylight or flash setting and let the interior go warm. If I want the interior ambient light (like a bright light bulb) to show but need to add some illumination with flash to supplement the interior incandescent light, then I use a cto gel on the flash to make is approximately as warm as the incandescent lights.

Basic idea is, I can control the exposure of the interior, but not the exterior (unless I gel the windows!). So I expose for the exterior light coming through the windows, and adjust the ambient interior light sources and my flash until I am happy with the results.

Actually its more complicated than that - color temperature of window light will vary greatly - with time of day and exposure. The light bleeding into the room will have a cast, and if you don't want it to look contrived, then you need to color balance all of the light coming through the window. Unless you use 2400ws or 4800ws studio strobes you are not going to completely eliminate ambient light if it is strong.

In those situations you use a black velvet wrapped window insert to block out all the light. I understand that this is probably beyond the budget and level of expertise of the OP, but nothing compares to a properly illuminated interior. I used to do architectural photography with 4x5 view cameras back in the 70s - it was my approach to the lighting that set my work apart from the rest.