boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

I had the same thought. Could it be something so simple as to tight a DOF? Looks like there was low light at the time of the shoot. Maybe a wide open lens at the long end of the zoom is the problem. Just a guess

MR BILL Loc: Tennessee

Very good info/reccos....I really need to get back in the books....and I will use different lens this evening for sure....note: I have experienced incredible results (as expected w a D4) w my 80-400/f4.5 UNTIL I decided to use my 200/f2.8 lens as it begins to darken earlier this time of year......

MR BILL Loc: Tennessee

I will definitely stop using spot focus! My D700 had the focus selector lever on the rear of the body....the D4 needs to be reset in the menu function & I have neglected resetting original choices which I made 2 years ago...thx

MR BILL Loc: Tennessee

Read my mind....plan to do this latewr today

MR BILL Loc: Tennessee

Thank you....still learning in all respects...didn't understand that feature....certainly will do in the future

RichieC Loc: Adirondacks

I suspect it is here: There are two types of auto focus, one for moving targets the other for static. AF-C (short for auto focus continuous) and AF-S (short for auto focus single). Read manual to see how each works... or go here:

http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/camera/nikon-digital-slr/focus-modes.shtml

If you look in NX2, your focus point can be highlighted. Spot is fine if you have it on the subject!


Didn't have time to read through all the responses... forgive me if already answered.

MR BILL Loc: Tennessee

Your guessed parameters are spot on! This reply is what I really think is going on with me. I have been used to either excellent daylight or "under the lights" well after sunset & this issue has cropped up (pun intended) as our 6pm game time is quickly losing the light I have been enjoying.

birdpix Loc: South East Pennsylvania

Mr Bill: You've had some good advice and some not so good. Most sports photographers set their lens wide open because they want the background to be out of focus so that the subject is isolated. They set their shutter speed to one that will freeze most motion for the particular sport considering the light conditions and then set the ISO at whatever is needed to get good exposure. Some motion blur may be acceptable. Inevitably, we reach a point where the light level is beyond the capabilities of the gear to show it without motion blur.

Spot focus is great if you are trying to shoot through a forest of legs or bodies but it does put a heavier burden on the photographer to keep that point on target. I shoot within the Canon system and I know I can set the AF sensitivity so that the camera will hesitate before refocusing if the focus point drifts away from the target momentarily. I find it helps to have a small cluster of AF points doing the work. Canon calls this AF point expansion and uses 5 or 9 AF points with the manually selected point starting focus and the remainder available to assist. I'm sure the D4 has similar settings.
My camera also allows me to show the AF points in the viewfinder. The active point shows bright red and I can watch to see if the focus point is changing as the AF system follows a subject.


If you can show the active AF points in viewfinder, you can easily test the system if you set it for all points AF, pick a well lit target with nothing nearby to distract the AF system, focus on the target then move the camera around slightly and watch to see if the active AF points change as the target moves around in the viewfinder.

MR BILL Loc: Tennessee

All very useful thoughts...as I am not a frequent user of this great site, I find myself desiring to answer EVERY reply as I read it....spent the morning with the plumber ....so, my plan is to continue reading & acting on ALL of your inputs, but not necessarily individually replying....Is there a proper etiquite for someone like me who needs your help, but can't spend most of my time "hunt & peck" typing on this computer? I am very greatful for your interest in my situation......be back later....Bill

kenpic Loc: Edmonds, WA

I thought you only put the switch on the lens to "action" if you were on a moving platform, like a boat.....

MR BILL Loc: Tennessee

Thx...I did recheck all my switches think/hoping that they would solve this!

SteveR Loc: Michigan

Have you tried 3D focus tracking? The camera will anticipate the movement of your subject.

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Article/ftlzi4lx/3d-focus-tracking.html

Bram boy Loc: Vancouver Island B.C. Canada

are u using matrix or spot metering . if matrix try spot .

snydersnapshots Loc: Houston, Texas

It looks to me like you're using a single focus point instead of multiple points. You may already know this, but if you are using a single point and shift it off the subject then it will focus on whatever the point is looking at. Honestly, your pictures look just fine to me.

One way you could test it is to put the camera on a tripod and aim it at a non-moving object at approximately the same distance from the camera as the soccer action, then fire off several bursts. If you're looking at a non-moving object, then every shot should be in focus. If some are and some aren't, then you have a camera and/or lens problem.

One other thought...when you were holding the lens, were you possibly moving the manual focus ring slightly? That could cause an issue as well.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

It's not the lens or camera. You probably don't have it set for one focus point, or you are slipping off of your subject and have it set to refocus quickly if it does. There are many things to consider when shooting action shots involving moving targets. Do some searching on youtube and other internet sites for the best settings for your D4. Shooting moving subjects takes skill. Just because you have one of the best cameras made, doesn't make it the easiest to use and it doesn't guarantee perfect pictures.