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Best lens for photo-ing buildings
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Sep 1, 2014 10:17:45   #
lrm Loc: Sarasota, FL
 
Currently use DX camera and like taking pix of buildings. What lens would be best. If I go to an FX camera -- same lens recommendation??

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Sep 1, 2014 10:24:31   #
MT Shooter Loc: Montana
 
I recommend a tilt-shift type lens to control inherent distortions. A 24mm PC or 35mm PC lens may be the best choices, both are full frame as I don't believe anyone makes any tilt-shift lenses in crop sensor specific sizing.
And any tilt-shift lens will always be manual focusing.

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Sep 1, 2014 10:34:51   #
architect Loc: Chattanooga
 
With excellent lens correction software like Photoshop, a tilt-shift lens is not necessary, and lens distortions as well as perspective correction can be done in very little time. I suggest a very wide angle lens such as the Tokina 11-16 mm for your DX camera. Be sure to include extra space around your subject, as correcting perspective will require cropping. As in my example.



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Sep 1, 2014 10:46:06   #
dcampbell52 Loc: Clearwater Fl
 
architect wrote:
With excellent lens correction software like Photoshop, a tilt-shift lens is not necessary, and lens distortions as well as perspective correction can be done in very little time. I suggest a very wide angle lens such as the Tokina 11-16 mm for your DX camera. Be sure to include extra space around your subject, as correcting perspective will require cropping. As in my example.


I agree, I have a Tamron 10-24 (designed for crop sensor) that I use for real estate photography. Lightroom has the lens specs built in so when I upload the images I tell it what lens and it makes all the appropriate corrections. The Nikon 10-24 is about twice as much but supposedly doesn't try to fisheye at 10mm. Since I got Lightroom, the software seems to take most out anyway or I can just zoom to 12 mm and problem is solved... This lens is NOT for an FX full frame body though, but there are probably other equivalent options.

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Sep 1, 2014 12:05:19   #
tsilva Loc: Arizona
 
Look at how much you lose in the crop. A tilt shift is still the BEST way to go.

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Sep 2, 2014 06:36:44   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
architect wrote:
With excellent lens correction software like Photoshop, a tilt-shift lens is not necessary, and lens distortions as well as perspective correction can be done in very little time. I suggest a very wide angle lens such as the Tokina 11-16 mm for your DX camera. Be sure to include extra space around your subject, as correcting perspective will require cropping. As in my example.


Correcting in post processing is an alternative that always yields a lower quality result. When you "stretch" the top of an image to remove the vertical vanishing point (buildings tilting back effect) you introduce significant interpolation and you will further need to vertically stretch the entire image to counteract the resulting compression, adding even more interpolation. Nikon's 24 PC-E would be an ideal, though pricey best solution. It features very little barrel distortion, excellent sharpness, and ignorable vignetting, in addition to the optical gymnastics possible with tilt/shift.

If you find that the lens is not wide enough you can always place the camera in portrait mode (on a tripod of course) and use just the shift to create a three panel pano

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Sep 2, 2014 06:43:56   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
lrm wrote:
Currently use DX camera and like taking pix of buildings. What lens would be best. If I go to an FX camera -- same lens recommendation??


What type of building pics?

Detail?

close up?

Full building?

Looking upwards?

Parallel to the building face?

All of these answers influence the answer to your question.

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Sep 2, 2014 08:10:57   #
lrm Loc: Sarasota, FL
 
All of the above.

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Sep 2, 2014 08:41:33   #
MT Shooter Loc: Montana
 
architect wrote:
With excellent lens correction software like Photoshop, a tilt-shift lens is not necessary, and lens distortions as well as perspective correction can be done in very little time. I suggest a very wide angle lens such as the Tokina 11-16 mm for your DX camera. Be sure to include extra space around your subject, as correcting perspective will require cropping. As in my example.


The OP asked for the "best" lens for this shooting, not potential lesser options.
I simply asked his (her) question correctly as to what lens is BEST for this type of photography. Most people "make do" with lesser lenses and use software to correct the problems presented by doing so. That will work within its limitations, but that does not change the correct answer to the OP's question. A tilt-shift lens is still the "best" lens for the shot when using a DSLR.

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Sep 2, 2014 08:53:48   #
dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia
 
MT Shooter wrote:
I recommend a tilt-shift type lens to control inherent distortions. A 24mm PC or 35mm PC lens may be the best choices, both are full frame as I don't believe anyone makes any tilt-shift lenses in crop sensor specific sizing.
And any tilt-shift lens will always be manual focusing.


The tilt-shift is the BEST lens for photographing buildings generically. If you can’t afford one, then a nice wide angle corrected in PP. Of course if your purpose in shooting buildings is not getting a nice accurate photo of the building, then some other lens might be better.

What is your intent with these photos? Selling real estate? Artistic interpretation? Capturing memories while traveling?

Are you talking about sky scrapers or individual homes?

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Sep 2, 2014 10:05:44   #
RichardSM Loc: Back in Texas
 
lrm wrote:
Currently use DX camera and like taking pix of buildings. What lens would be best. If I go to an FX camera -- same lens recommendation??


Hi lrm

Your question is somewhat vague? In my opinion any lens could be use to take a picture of a building depending on the angle you wish to take it from? However some of the posts given above will give you some interesting perspective no doubt on the lenses mentioned!

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Sep 2, 2014 10:07:10   #
RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA
 
lrm wrote:
Currently use DX camera and like taking pix of buildings. What lens would be best. If I go to an FX camera -- same lens recommendation??


Lacking a view camera or PC lens, use a wide-angle lens positioned level, and crop out the excess. You will appreciate the advantages of a rectilinear prime lens on an FX DSLR for this purpose.
To me, the above illustration of post-processing perspective control looks unnatural. It is, however, an excellent example of what can be accomplished in an extreme situation.

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Sep 2, 2014 12:41:06   #
rpavich Loc: West Virginia
 
lrm wrote:
All of the above.


Then one lens won't do it.

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Sep 2, 2014 13:18:16   #
architect Loc: Chattanooga
 
Gene51 wrote:
Correcting in post processing is an alternative that always yields a lower quality result. When you "stretch" the top of an image to remove the vertical vanishing point (buildings tilting back effect) you introduce significant interpolation and you will further need to vertically stretch the entire image to counteract the resulting compression, adding even more interpolation. Nikon's 24 PC-E would be an ideal, though pricey best solution. It features very little barrel distortion, excellent sharpness, and ignorable vignetting, in addition to the optical gymnastics possible with tilt/shift.

If you find that the lens is not wide enough you can always place the camera in portrait mode (on a tripod of course) and use just the shift to create a three panel pano
Correcting in post processing is an alternative th... (show quote)

You are, of course, correct. A PC lens is the best way to go. There is loss of quality from interpolation, but it depends on how the image is intended to be used. For online use, such as Airbnb or real estate, the quality lost is minimal. For a glossy architectural or interiors magazine, a large format view camera would provide the best image quality.

My example above is an extreme correction to illustrate the issues in perspective correction. If the correction is minor, as in most of my architectural work, the loss in quality through interpolation is minimal.

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Sep 2, 2014 17:06:55   #
rlscholl Loc: California
 
Used T-S or even a shift lens could be a good lower cost alternative. For instance, the old Olympus Zuiko 35mm shift lens (for the OM series film cameras) could be an excellent low-cost (relative) alternative, with the appropriate lens adapter, if you are willing to put up with the inconvenience of a completely manual lens.

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