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Jul 26, 2014 14:00:14   #
cheineck Loc: Hobe Sound, FL
 
Rongnongno wrote:
Please do read the op question carefully instead of taking this as a personal critic as it is not.

It becomes personal once you try to push your 'hand held' again and again instead of answering the question.


I didn't take it as personal. Sorry if it sounded so. Did I mention "Hand-held" again?...can't find it.

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Jul 27, 2014 05:41:50   #
mikegreenwald Loc: Illinois
 
There is no question that a carefully leveled tripod and all manual settings left unchanged throughout the shooting portion of the panorama creation will lead to the most consistent high quality results. Nodal point correction is needed for nearby objects, but you can often get away without it for landscapes. Lenses in normal or long sizes for whatever camera you are using work well, but wide angle lenses may introduce distortions in many cases.

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Jul 27, 2014 06:45:30   #
lbrandt79 Loc: League City, Tx.
 
paul06 wrote:
I need to take a building panorama. I will be using a Canon Rebel XTi w/ 18 - 55 mm zoom lens. If I mount the camera on a tripod and pan the camera after taking each shot, the results will be misaligned. Suggestions please. Thank you.

You can shoot them handheld but you must shoot in manual to get a smooth set of seams in your pano, especially if the llighting is different across the pano. I have attached three, two were taken handheld and the third sunrise with a tripod. I took an average setting of the sunrise with the the colors etc. and then when panning the darker areas turned out pretty much the way the valley looked with the silhouettes etc. The other two were easier because of the lighting. Regards. All put together in Photoshop.

Monument Valley
Monument Valley...

Mormon Row and Tetons
Mormon Row and Tetons...

Monument Valley Sunrise from Valley View Hotel
Monument Valley Sunrise from Valley View Hotel...

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Jul 27, 2014 07:32:37   #
lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA
 
paul06 wrote:
I need to take a building panorama. I will be using a Canon Rebel XTi w/ 18 - 55 mm zoom lens. If I mount the camera on a tripod and pan the camera after taking each shot, the results will be misaligned. Suggestions please. Thank you.


Yes, I agree with the others answering here too, at least the few I read so far. Personally I'd use a high quality prime lens, say a 35 to 50mm prime and shoot 5 to 9 or more RAW shots. Use a pan head tripod not a ball head (I had to buy a second head at the last minute). Oh, and shoot on Manual everything (focus and exposure). If need be, Av mode or Manual only. Don't make a fake panorama by cropping an extreme wide angle lens image or two images. Overlap 25% to even 33%, I usually have shot in vertical or portrait format. Also if PS CS5, CS6, or CSCC stitches all your shots at once and creates an odd, none rectangular image try combining them two at a time and then combine those from the center one(s) first working alternately outward. It can give you more control and a larger usable image. You will still likely have to crop to a rectangle. There are a few advanced tricks to fill in empty space (research "Photoshop Content Aware". Also try adjusting all your images with Camera Raw before hand. The resultant panorama can be a huge file, over 1GB! And thus hard to work with or edit. Unless you are actually printing a mural, a 105-inch wide image file is useless over-kill, so reduce your physical size to say 24" at 300dpi and then save it as a PSD or TIFF file. Only go to JPG for publishing or printing.

You might also try for another project a Stitched image that is not a panorama per say but a similar array of say a 3 by 4 array or grid of images to make like an image shot with a larger format camera. You can get incredible detail.

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Jul 27, 2014 07:36:33   #
lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA
 
Great Images Larry!

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Jul 27, 2014 08:12:12   #
lbrandt79 Loc: League City, Tx.
 
lamiaceae wrote:
Yes, I agree with the others answering here too, at least the few I read so far. Personally I'd use a high quality prime lens, say a 35 to 50mm prime and shoot 5 to 9 or more RAW shots. Use a pan head tripod not a ball head (I had to buy a second head at the last minute). Oh, and shoot on Manual everything (focus and exposure). If need be, Av mode or Manual only. Don't make a fake panorama by cropping an extreme wide angle lens image or two images. Overlap 25% to even 33%, I usually have shot in vertical or portrait format. Also if PS CS5, CS6, or CSCC stitches all your shots at once and creates an odd, none rectangular image try combining them two at a time and then combine those from the center one(s) first working alternately outward. It can give you more control and a larger usable image. You will still likely have to crop to a rectangle. There are a few advanced tricks to fill in empty space (research "Photoshop Content Aware". Also try adjusting all your images with Camera Raw before hand. The resultant panorama can be a huge file, over 1GB! And thus hard to work with or edit. Unless you are actually printing a mural, a 105-inch wide image file is useless over-kill, so reduce your physical size to say 24" at 300dpi and then save it as a PSD or TIFF file. Only go to JPG for publishing or printing.

You might also try for another project a Stitched image that is not a panorama per say but a similar array of say a 3 by 4 array or grid of images to make like an image shot with a larger format camera. You can get incredible detail.
Yes, I agree with the others answering here too, a... (show quote)

Thanks for the comment, and never thought of combining them two at a time, just learned something I never thought of, thanks.
Also, you are correct, Manual is the only way to shoot, some scenes however where the light is constant across I can see where you can shoot aperture priority but with Manual you will not see the seams in the final product. I never take the chance to not shoot in manual.

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Jul 27, 2014 08:14:17   #
BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD
 
Some things about settings:
...all manual - do NOT change between images - same settings for all images in the series
...set your focus for the first image - again, DO NOT change it for following images.
...decide on what f stop you want and then take several shots over the span of your pano - set the shutter for the brightest and the darkest areas and then set an average for use over the entire pano. Tweek the average and then don't change between images.

RE paralex - as mdorn said parallax is an issue with near and far objects in the same series - it shows up in the image overlaps. If you can't calibrate your tripod/camera/lens shoot hand-held. Set one foot in front, place and center your camera above that foot and rotate around that foot - each image shot square-on.
Again, shoot in portrait aspect.
If you need to shoot from low to high, same overlap with the above and below images. If you have multiple images in a row - shoot from the bottom to the top, ALL rows from left to right.
The very first and very last image in the series should be your hand.

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Jul 28, 2014 13:02:06   #
Albuqshutterbug Loc: Albuquerque NM
 
I have not seen anyone recommend this and I don't know if they would anyway.
Microsoft has a free program called ICE.
Image Composite Editor that will do most of the work for you assuming you have solid photos to work with.
I agree, manual mode and do not change your exposure as you pan.
I have had good results with this program both hand held and tripod mount.
It's a quick and dirty solution that works rather well.
Attached is a 6 photo stitch using ICE from this weekend.
Its not picture perfect but it is very quick and easy to use.

Safford Arizona Storm Front
Safford Arizona Storm Front...

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Jul 28, 2014 13:53:00   #
mdorn Loc: Portland, OR
 
lbrandt79 wrote:
You can shoot them handheld but you must shoot in manual to get a smooth set of seams in your pano, especially if the llighting is different across the pano. I have attached three, two were taken handheld and the third sunrise with a tripod. I took an average setting of the sunrise with the the colors etc. and then when panning the darker areas turned out pretty much the way the valley looked with the silhouettes etc. The other two were easier because of the lighting. Regards. All put together in Photoshop.
You can shoot them handheld but you must shoot in ... (show quote)


Very nice Larry! :thumbup:

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Jul 28, 2014 16:41:36   #
lbrandt79 Loc: League City, Tx.
 
Albuqshutterbug wrote:
I have not seen anyone recommend this and I don't know if they would anyway.
Microsoft has a free program called ICE.
Image Composite Editor that will do most of the work for you assuming you have solid photos to work with.
I agree, manual mode and do not change your exposure as you pan.
I have had good results with this program both hand held and tripod mount.
It's a quick and dirty solution that works rather well.
Attached is a 6 photo stitch using ICE from this weekend.
Its not picture perfect but it is very quick and easy to use.
I have not seen anyone recommend this and I don't ... (show quote)

Great shot, perfect example at to why you need to shoot Manual.

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Jul 28, 2014 16:44:44   #
lbrandt79 Loc: League City, Tx.
 
mdorn wrote:
Very nice Larry! :thumbup:


Thanks

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Jul 28, 2014 17:02:32   #
cheineck Loc: Hobe Sound, FL
 
lbrandt79 wrote:
Great shot, perfect example at to why you need to shoot Manual.


None of the examples I posted here (look back a page or so) were taken using manual...what am I doing right, or wrong?

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Jul 28, 2014 17:28:09   #
lbrandt79 Loc: League City, Tx.
 
cheineck wrote:
None of the examples I posted here (look back a page or so) were taken using manual...what am I doing right, or wrong?


First, those two pics were awesome.
I hope I did not criticize your work, the only thing I would say is that you can certainly not use Manual and get great Panoramic pics but do not believe you can get them if the lighting is different across the panoramic. Look at the Monument Valley pic I posted, it is exactly the way it was that morning, had I use Aperture priority with the difference in lighting there would be no way to stitch that scene. I think the two pics you submitted would allow you to shoot at an automatic setting such as AV. Regards

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Jul 28, 2014 18:32:48   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
Once the panorama is put together, is it possible to do p/p on it?

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Jul 28, 2014 18:41:07   #
lbrandt79 Loc: League City, Tx.
 
SteveR wrote:
Once the panorama is put together, is it possible to do p/p on it?


Yes, flatten the image and you can adjust, hopefully you will not need to adjust it very much.

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