Depends on what "history" you are asking about, and which program you are using.
In Photoshop, you can set a limit on the depth (or number) of editing steps that your computer tracks - it's an older safeguard for when memory was less abundant, but if you set if low, it limits the number of "Undo" edits or "Step Backwards" (Alt-Ctrl-Z) you have stored in RAM. That limit is set in the Edit->Preferences->Performance menu under History States.
Another history is the automatic recording of edits that you can use in Photoshop. I don't use that feature outside of my former forensic work where it was required for proof that photos were not "doctored" when submitted to court. I mention that only because I'm not sure which "history" you mean, but I think it's the Undo steps, not the formal recorded history which is off by default.
gvarner wrote:
I'm using Elements 11
I have PSE 12. Does the ACR plug-in for ver. 11 have a third icon on the right side that looks like camera? See below. That might be a starting point.
mikegreenwald wrote:
For any substantial manipulation, and particularly true for inexperienced users, start with duplicating the image. Never modify one or the other of the images, so if anything becomes damaged you get a free "start over."
This is always true except in the case of RAW files. You can't change a RAW file, only it's current instructions for changes. If you really want to experiment with a RAW that has already been processed then just change the name of the XMP sidecar file (add an a, b, c...). That will save all your old instructions but still keep them handy.
bw79st wrote:
... If you really want to experiment with a RAW that has already been processed then just change the name of the XMP sidecar file (add an a, b, c...). That will save all your old instructions but still keep them handy.
That's a handy tip :thumbup: :thumbup:
I am such a Newbie that I didn't know what I didn't know. Since joining and reading this forum I am starting to obtain the knowledge of a more specific understanding of my ignorance; progress! :-) After reading so much about how wonderful RAW is, I gave it a try. I opened the file with PaintShop Pro X6. It looked like I was looking through a gun barrel. I didn't expect that. Is that typical? So I cropped it and tried to make a presentable photo out of it but had poor results. I speculate that the reason for my failure is that PSP is not a very good choice for working with RAW but I also acknowledge that my ignorance may have been the reason.
texashill wrote:
I am such a Newbie that I didn't know what I didn't know. Since joining and reading this forum I am starting to obtain the knowledge of a more specific understanding of my ignorance; progress! :-) After reading so much about how wonderful RAW is, I gave it a try. I opened the file with PaintShop Pro X6. It looked like I was looking through a gun barrel. I didn't expect that. Is that typical? So I cropped it and tried to make a presentable photo out of it but had poor results. I speculate that the reason for my failure is that PSP is not a very good choice for working with RAW but I also acknowledge that my ignorance may have been the reason.
I am such a Newbie that I didn't know what I didn'... (
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Page 75 of the user guide:
http://product.corel.com/help/PaintShop-Pro/540214299/Main/EN/PDF/CorelPaintShopPro.pdfI see that in Picasa sometimes, with raw files from Canon SX50.
Thanks Linda, yes those are the controls that I used. After cropping out the gun barrel, I tried the controls that you reference from the user guide. I couldn't get results anywhere near as good as the attached JPEG that came from the same shoot.
gvarner wrote:
What would the basic adjustments be, if any, that you would do when first opening a RAW file? My tendency on a first effort was to just fiddle with things until the pic looked better. After the basic, then are all subsequent changes done in RAW or at some point do you save as JPEG and then do additional adjustments? Do we save our original pristine RAW and the edited RAW as a separate file? I suspect that would be best but I've also read where anything done in RAW can be undone after it's saved in RAW so the original RAW might not be that necessary. Your advice would be appreciated.
What would the basic adjustments be, if any, that ... (
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I would strongly suggest reading
The Digital Negative - Raw Image Processing in Lightroom, Camera Raw, and Photoshop by Jeff Schewe. This book is a good read with lots of examples. It does emphasize Lightroom processing but is good for Adobe Camera RAW (ACR) also. It will not lose you in pages and pages of minute details that you do not need when just getting started in RAW processing.
http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Negative-Processing-Lightroom-Photoshop/dp/0321839579/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1404313557&sr=1-3&keywords=jeff+scheweI have both the Kindle and printed versions. I prefer the
printed version as the images retain the proper relation to the descriptive text.
HTH
mldavis2 wrote:
WB can be adjusted in any editor with a neutral dropper if you can find a neutral gray surface. The best ones are concrete, the sidewall of a tire, or shaded white. Other colors are usually a guess.
Right on. It's the number one first step.
texashill wrote:
Thanks Linda, yes those are the controls that I used. After cropping out the gun barrel, I tried the controls that you reference from the user guide. I couldn't get results anywhere near as good as the attached JPEG that came from the same shoot.
I'm fairly new to raw and I use Photoshop Elements; don't know Corel. Sometimes my jpg's look better too. Don't you hate when the camera is smarter than you? :)
Psergel wrote:
On several occasions I've found that my adjustments had wandered off into the realm of insanity. I go to the "history", scroll back to the beginning and start again.
Is there any way to erase all the insanity that's been recorded in the history or...for that matter...is there any reason to?
Make sure the History Panel is open and visible (in PS or LR). Each of your adjustments is recorded in the History Panel as a separate item. You can then just click on the specific history item that you want to go back to. All of the items after the one you clicked on are still there, but you can start over from a specific point and not go back all the way back to the beginning.
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