oldtigger Loc: Roanoke Virginia-USA

check this out for iso performance.

Add people tend to lie about performance.

http://www.adorama.com/alc/0012810/article/15-Low-Light-High-ISO-All-Stars

minniev Loc: MIssissippi

With the EM5 and this lens, here is what I find works best for me:
1. Turn off Image Stabilization if on tripod. Remote shutter is a good thing here.
2. Use AF+MF focus type
3. AF first, using smallest focal point, then use the zoom feature to zoom in x14 for critical focus. Use MF to fine tune.
4. Keep the ISO at the lowest workable level, 200 preferred, no more than 800 unless it is seriously dark and windy. Though the EM5 is a decent performer in the low noise area, all cameras have more noise as you go up the ISO ladder.There is no reason to let auto ISO run wild, and it will if you don't control it.
5. Aperture varies as to whether I'm trying to get a lot of the flower in focus or just a certain part. Smaller aperture (larger f number) = more in focus. When you're very close you will still have trouble getting every part in focus, that's when focus stacking comes in. I've read about it but haven't done much with it as I'm not what anyone would call a serious macro shooter.
6. Understand that the 12-50 is not Olympus' best lens. Sometimes we have to accept its limitations.
7. If you're fairly new to m43 and CDAF autofocus, give yourself time and practice to get used to the difference in focus mechanisms between this camera and typical DSLR's. It works well, but it will miss a bit until you learn how it "sees" and adjust your methods to suit its strengths.

You've got a great little camera, and there are quite a few of us on the forum who use it and its siblings.

Moose Loc: North Carolina

Thanks Minniev for the detail instructions. That helps alot. I'll print them out and keep them handy. Really appreciate the help.

Moose Loc: North Carolina

Thanks Oldtrigger for the link. A bit technical for me, but I understand about using the higher ISO. Thanks again.

rebride

A little trick for closeups. Shoot in burst/continuous mode. Especially at 1/10s even though camera is on a tripod.

Moose Loc: North Carolina

Rebride, I'm not sure what the benefit of this is. Aren't all the images going to have the same focus condition?

rebride

It is kind of like CYA.
Close up work is pretty critical. Not any leeway.
You might be surprised the differences in focus between the shots especially at slow shutter speeds. Something might move, camera misfunction, but one shot might hit.

minniev Loc: MIssissippi

I agree that firing off a series of shots it is worth a try. But I'd try each trick separately if I were you, so you'd know which ones actually helped and which ones hurt, or didn't matter. I forgot to say that in my post, but it's a real benefit to troubleshoot stuff that way, so you can learn what works best to get you the results you want. It's tedious but it can pay off if you have the patience for it

Moose Loc: North Carolina

I thought that was the reason, but wanted to be sure.

johneccles Loc: Leyland UK

Hi Moose, I had a 12-50 lens but couldn't get used to the Macro setting, like you my photos were fuzzy.
I think the problem you have is that it's tempting to get too near which results in fuzzy images, try moving back an inch or so.
You can always crop them afterwards.
I got rid of mine and now have 14-55mm lens, for macro I zoom in to f45 and now my macros are much better.
Cheers, John

roger2012 Loc: Chichester West Sussex UK

From the images you show they look like they were hand held and you will get camera shake would recommend when you do macro you use a tripod. As I see no mention of a tripod.

Meives Loc: FORT LAUDERDALE

[quote=Moose]This is my guess. The rule I learned was that the speed of the shutter should be no longer than this formula. 1/mm lens used. At 43 mm the shutter should have been 1/42 and it was 1/10. ISO was maxed out and f 11 should be small enough to give an OK depth of field. David

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

Moose - There IS grain in the pic! The lighting is not A1! More contrast would make the pic appear sharper! The focus is near the front of the flower on narrow edges - hence the wider petals are not in focus, which makes the whole pic appear fuzzy. More DOF required with this shot. There IS camera shake in evidence.
BUT I am an amateur and often get the same sort of results. However I hope my oar speeds you on to sort out - your prob is not the lens. I downloaded your original and put it through a prog called PhotoBoost. Here is the result.

(Download)

Collie lover Loc: St. Louis, MO

I've been told to turn IS off when the camera is mounted on a tripod.

Collie lover Loc: St. Louis, MO

Might need to check your diopter and make changes.