FiddleMaker Loc: Merrimac, MA

Elwynn, I am leaning in the direction of keeping the D7000 and adding the D7100 based on some of the reader comments so far.

amehta Loc: Boston

You would not see any resolution difference when viewing the pictures on an HD screen, which is basically 2mp. In both cases, the software you are using will "downsample" the image to fit the screen. It does not matter if you are downsampling from 24mp or 16mp to get to 2mp.

FiddleMaker Loc: Merrimac, MA

so if I do most of my photo viewing on my computer, I am not going to see any noticeable difference between my 16mp D7000 and a 24mp D7100. But I presume that I would notice a difference if I were printing 11" x 14" prints.

amehta Loc: Boston

At 300ppi, a 10x15" print (matching the 3:2 aspect ratio of both cameras) would be 3000x4500 pixels or 13.5mp. The difference between 16mp and 24mp is a 22% difference in linear size of the print at the same resolution. So if you can make a good 20x30" print with the 16mp image, you will get the same quality in a 24x36" print from the 24mp image. Are you really going to notice that difference? I don't think so.

There are so many more important factors in image quality than a 50% increase in megapixels, with the lens and lighting at the top of the list.

Reinaldokool Loc: San Rafael, CA

I suggest you go to http://kenrockwell.com/nikon/comparisons/2013-04-09-dslrs/index.htm where he does a direct comparison including some prints of tiny portions that would be 8 feet wide in full print. Rockwell has been my "guru" for many years and he's never steered me wrong.

amehta Loc: Boston

At the G.A.S. Support Group, we talk about spending effectively, especially by avoiding redundancy. I'm not sure what lenses you are using, but if they are variable aperture zooms, I think your overall image quality would improve more with a new lens than a new camera.

FiddleMaker Loc: Merrimac, MA

Thanks for pointing out this article by Ken Rockwell. Very convincing article.

FiddleMaker Loc: Merrimac, MA

All 3 of my Nikon lenses are well under $300 each. Two are zooms (18-105 & 55-300) and the 3rd is a fixed 40mm macro that I use fro violin making. So my concern may very well rest with lens quality and not the camera. Nikon does offer a 105mm macro for about $900. I'm sure that will out-perform my "el-cheapo" 40mm. I still have my original Nikkor 200 mm f:1.4 with hard leather case that I bought back in 1970. It looks brand new. I used it once in a while on my old Nikon FTN. The dealer where I bought my D7000 told me I cannot use this lens.
I guess it makes a good paper weight.

amehta Loc: Boston

There are two options which work with your D7000:
1. Nikon AF 105mm f/2.8D, used for $400-450
2. Tokina 100mm f/2.8 AT-X M100 AF Pro D Macro($400 @ B&H)
These are both cheaper than the current $900 lens because they do not have a built-in autofocus motor and do not have VR. If you are using these lenses on a tripod, though, you will get excellent results with either one.

FiddleMaker Loc: Merrimac, MA

Anand, Yes, I generally would use my tripod although at violin-making room is tight and I usually hand-hold my camera & 40mm el-cheapo (no VR). The built-in flash usually saves the day.
Thanks for the tip.

amehta Loc: Boston

If you have the Nikon AF-S 40mm f/2.8G DX Micro, it's a decent lens, and I'm not sure a 105mm/100mm macro lens will do significantly better. For shots of your violins, the lens which would give you the best performance is the Nikon AF-S 85mm f/1.8G, but it's not even clear that the 85mm would make a significant difference.

Perhaps you could post a picture which you are not entirely happy with, and tell us what you want to do better?

coco1964 Loc: Winsted Mn

Couldn't have said it better myself!! I upgraded to the D7000 about 3 years ago and liked the camera so much I went out and bought a second refurbished one as a backup. I make the majority of $$$ in photography shooting sports for the newspaper and a local baseball magazine so I did need a backup. The only place I've seen a pro for the D7100 to be the locking of the mode dial is here on UHH and usually by the same 3-4 people. I use my cameras extensively and NEVER had that dial move inadvertently nor have I talked in person to anyone personally that has this camera that has had this problem. I guess I need to ask the question of why do you need an update when it sounds like you've hardly used the one you have?? Is this a need or merely a want??? You stated your camera is in mint condition (how many shutter clicks??) so why not buy some nice glass with that wad of cash that's burning a hole in your pocket???

amehta Loc: Boston

Upon further consideration, the best purchase may be a speedlight like the SB700, maybe two, to make the lighting better.

FiddleMaker Loc: Merrimac, MA

Anand, oddly enough I did order a SB-700. It arrived last week. "Itching" to try it out at some family get-togethers and at my 53rd high school reunion this coming August.

If I am in a fairly large living room, the small built-in flash just is not quite strong enough. So the SB-700 should do the job. But first I need to struggle through a learning curve. With all the bells and whistles on the D7000 and the SB-700 by feeble brain gets a tad confused. Old age, I reckon.
(Now I need to figure out how to add these smily faces to my postings).

amehta Loc: Boston

The easiest thing to answer is the smileys. First, instead of typing in the "Quick Reply" box at the bottom of the page, use the "Quote Reply" link in the post you are responding to. When you do that, three important things happen:
1. The comment you are responding to is included. This topic is fairly linear, but some get complicated and that can be very helpful.
2. You get the option to include attachments like pictures. If you want people to see the detail of the picture, check the "(store original)" box, and we can download an exact copy of the file you post.
3. On the left are the smileys which you can click on to include them in your post. :-) The most common one is that, and it is simply the three characters : - ).

Now, the SB700. On the camera, it operates in basically the same way as the built-in flash. But to get the best results, you want to take the flash off the camera. You can use the camera's built-in flash as a commander with the SB700 a remote flash. That is more complicated, and you might want to do some reading on it first. Then if you want help, post a new topic on that.