Tack Sharp Photos (Page 4): As you said that is a completely different can of worms. Composition and light have nothing to do with the mechanics of focus and vibration dampening, gear...

smith934 Loc: Huntsville, Alabama

Mark7829 wrote:

Gear is not as great an issue as the photographer. Ansel Adams said the most important part is 12 inches behind the camera. Yes, gear is a factor but knowledge of composition and light are much more important. We all seem to think gear is the deciding factor it is not. Give a rank amateur all the best equipment and the top professional, no so much. Who will capture the better picture?

(OMG, I just opened another can of worms)

As you said that is a completely different can of worms. Composition and light have nothing to do with the mechanics of focus and vibration dampening, gear and it's proper employment does.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Mark7829 wrote:

Gear is not as great an issue as the photographer. Ansel Adams said the most important part is 12 inches behind the camera. Yes, gear is a factor but knowledge of composition and light are much more important. We all seem to think gear is the deciding factor it is not. Give a rank amateur all the best equipment and the top professional, no so much. Who will capture the better picture?

(OMG, I just opened another can of worms)

No, you just made an off-topic post. BTW, a good shooter will get better shots with better gear. As you noted, the reverse is rarely true. :)

Blenheim Orange Loc: Michigan

Gene51 wrote:

FYI

Thanks for all of your knowledgeable and informative posts on this thread.

Mike

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

Peter Boyd wrote:

And if you cannot accurately focus after understanding all that-there's no hope for you,Sorry.

I can't even be bothered to read all that, never mind understand it!!![/quote]

you'll never be rich, if you don't read the instructions

quenepas Loc: Ft. Myers, FL

Great thread on this subject. Started reading at 6:30am and all comments very helpful.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

quenepas wrote:

Great thread on this subject. Started reading at 6:30am and all comments very helpful.

me gustan las quenepas tambien!

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

nekon wrote:

you'll never be rich, if you don't read the instructions-stay ignorant about sharp focus.

redrocktom Loc: Sedona

nekon wrote:

you'll never be rich, if you don't read the instructions

Nekon,
I have always appreciated your lengthy explanations. I have always learned much from them. Thank you for your time and willingness to share.

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

redrocktom wrote:

Nekon,
I have always appreciated your lengthy explanations. I have always learned much from them. Thank you for your time and willingness to share.

Thank you, redrocktom for your appreciation-photography, for me has become a way of life rather than a trade or hobby-it takes a lifetime to learn and at 72, I am still learning. I try to pass down what I have learned in the most easily understood way that I can. I don't say that what I suggest is the only way to achieve a result, I just pass on what has worked for me. Thank You again, Kenneth William Caleno. (nekon)

miller2110

Nekon,

Thanks for the long, detailed and helpful reply. I think I understood everything except the first point:

"1.Set your Focus icons - detach lens, (so you are adjusting focus on focus point, not image) - adjust dioptre (next to viewfinder) so focus points are sharply in focus. (easier against a white, or light background) Re-attach lens"

I'm not familiar with the term "Focus icons". What are they and where do I find them?

Thanks Again.

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

I think what he's saying is that, with everything else working correctly, your best indicator of whether you're in focus is what you see on the focus screen. The focus screen will have squares or ['s. When they are the clearest, by diopter adjustment, your eye is properly focused on the screen.

nekon Loc: Carterton, New Zealand

[quote=OddJobber]I think what he's saying is that, with everything else working correctly, your best indicator of whether you're in focus is what you see on the focus screen. The focus screen will have squares or ['s. When they are the clearest, by diopter adjustment, your eye is properly focused on the screen.[/quote]

That's right, Thank you for elucidating.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

[quote=OddJobber]I think what he's saying is that, with everything else working correctly, your best indicator of whether you're in focus is what you see on the focus screen. The focus screen will have squares or ['s. When they are the clearest, by diopter adjustment, your eye is properly focused on the screen.[/quote]

If you are using a Nikon, the viewfinder will indicate a left facing triangle, dot, right facing triangle to indicate front, center and back focus. Only comment is that if your eyesight is bad, as can be the case with us older folks, it is still possible to get amazing focus accuracy if your lens is properly calibrated to your camera using the micro focus adjust capability that many mfgrs provide in their cameras. If you don't want to spend your time setting up focus, then you can bring your camera to any shop that has an optical bench and they will set it up for you, for a nominal charge.

OddJobber Loc: Portland, OR

True, Gene, but only for prime lenses (usually). I think it was CaptC that pointed that out to me a while back. I tried auto focus fine tune on a 55-200mm kit lens and it needed +20 correction at one end of the zoom and -20 at the other end. Needless to say, I'm looking for a replacement for that lens.

RonMe Loc: San Antonio

I often have been disappointed with the sharpness of some of my images. I have found that I get the best results when using prime lenses with the aperture set in the "sweet range," that is, anywhere away from the extremes.