im learning but I need HELP
bdk
Loc: Sanibel Fl.
I wanted to create the silky effect when waves crash on a beach. I set the shutter to 1/5 and F20 100 iso.
Its obvious when you look at the pic there is too much light,
My camera goes to F36 and I assume I should have tried changing settings some more but I was out of time and had to leave. I also have filters nd 2 4 & 8 ( never used them yet)
so on a bright sunny day what settings would you have used? as usual any help is much appreciated.
Next time try your number 8 ND filter, and maybe lower your f stop to f/11 (if you're going for a silky look, you don't necessarily need a narrow aperture).
Have you used manual exposure before? Are you able to see in the camera display whether it's warning you about over-exposure or under-exposure?
If light is very bright, you might not be able to set a slow enough shutter speed without aid of something like a neutral density filter (which enables you to use settings as if it were darker out).
Bob has the right idea: low ISO, ND8, and f/11 or f/16. If you select Aperture Priority mode, your camera will select the shutter duration that will give you a fairly normal exposure. You can then view your captured image on your LCD, and note your settings via "Info" button. Then you can duplicate shutter duration in Manual mode, or make exposure adjustments by increasing or decreasing shutter duration.
bdk
Loc: Sanibel Fl.
thanks for the input, what I usually do is take the shot, look at it in the viewfinder then change shutter speed and "f" its better if I know where I should start, and then go from there. I know now to add the filter and start from there. like I said Im learning . some times I get it right and sometimes I get what you saw above. Some day I hope to be able to look at a scene and make all the correct decisions in my head before I start. I guess it comes with time.
IM using a Nikon D5200, I like it,
bdk wrote:
IM using a Nikon D5200
I love my D5200 with 24Mp!
bdk wrote:
I wanted to create the silky effect when waves crash on a beach. I set the shutter to 1/5 and F20 100 iso.
Its obvious when you look at the pic there is too much light,
My camera goes to F36 and I assume I should have tried changing settings some more but I was out of time and had to leave. I also have filters nd 2 4 & 8 ( never used them yet)
so on a bright sunny day what settings would you have used? as usual any help is much appreciated.
First off...your picture is overexposed by a long shot (just to state the obvious.)
So....my first question is: do you know how to set your camera to get a proper exposure? I'm not sure based on your post (that's not a criticism but only an observation)
If you know how to set your camera, that's most of the battle.
Smearing water in any kind of light level resembling day time requires an ND filter.
bdk
Loc: Sanibel Fl.
IM learning, I took a few pics and continually changed the F stop , had I had more time I probably would have gotten it where I wanted it. Now that I know to use the filter and which one, I'll be a lot further along.
bdk wrote:
IM learning, I took a few pics and continually changed the F stop , had I had more time I probably would have gotten it where I wanted it. Now that I know to use the filter and which one, I'll be a lot further along.
Play with this simulator. It's easy to figure out the exposure triangle with this.
http://camerasim.com/apps/camera-simulator/
Let me try to address the thinking about these shots. When using a long exposure time it is about letting a little light to hit the sensor over that time. Douglas and Bob have given you great considerations for your settings.
Hi bdk, I also have been recently learning the long exposure techniques for water. ND filters are sometimes named in a confusing way and I think the filters you have - i.e. 2,4 and 8 may not be of 2,4 & 8 f stops but just one of the numeral names they are called. If I am right then your NO. 8 will only be a stop of 3 f nos. which probably would not be enough to smooth water in bright light. The 3 stacked together would be 1 + 2 + 3 = to an f6 stopped.
You could stack them and see what happens although it would be better to have single filters. I have a 10 stop filter which seems to work well.
The process that I would use is:
1. Aperture priority on f22 and note the speed. (It is better to use around f22 or less because the quality decreases at the very high numbers.) ISO at lowest possible.
2. Then calculate the time needed with the darkened lens. Knowing that for each f stop decrease the time required is doubled, you merely have to double the time for each f stop value of the filter/s. i.e. If the camera wants to use 1/120 sec. then double that time 6 times for your stack adding up to f6 stops). i.e. 1/120 - 1/60 - 1/30 - 1/15 - 1/8 - 1/4 - 1/2 sec. Then go to Manual mode and set f22 and 1/2 second. (For my 10 stop filter I would need to go to 8 seconds - I suggest you work this out for yourself for practice.)
3. Compose and focus the shot, put on manual focus to hold the focus (you can't see when the filters are on) and then carefully add the filters and use your timer to avoid the shake of pressing the button.
4. Cover the viewfinder to avoid light entering here.
You will find that you will have to increase or decrease the f no. or time to get the right exposure, the graph in your camera is useful as a check for this.
Practise and practise on any scrap of moving water and then find an attractive view to work with. The faster the water the less time you will need. It goes without saying to use a stable tripod. Good luck, I look forward to seeing your results.
rpavich wrote:
Smearing water in any kind of light level resembling day time requires an ND filter.
Not so much, the lowest f stop and a relatively slow shutter speed can give that result. It just takes a llittle experimentation.
Here are two images of falling water. I prefer low contrast for long exposures, so I choose overcast skies.
One with a single ND3 filter, and one with no ND.
Image #1: Tripod-mount Nikon D90 at ISO 100, Nikkor 28-mm lens with ND3, 1.3-second at f/22, overcast sky.
Image #2: Tripod-mount Nikon D5000 at ISO 100, Nikkor 18-55 zoom lens at 55-mm, 0.6-sec at f/36, overcast sky & moderately dense tree foliage. NO Neutral Density nor Polarizing filters used.
Waterfall at the L.A. Arboretum
(
Download)
Spring Creek ford in the Upper Tomichi Valley
(
Download)
bdk wrote:
I wanted to create the silky effect when waves crash on a beach. I set the shutter to 1/5 and F20 100 iso.
Its obvious when you look at the pic there is too much light,
My camera goes to F36 and I assume I should have tried changing settings some more but I was out of time and had to leave. I also have filters nd 2 4 & 8 ( never used them yet)
so on a bright sunny day what settings would you have used? as usual any help is much appreciated.
Bdk,
If you want, go to my website and go to my travel gallery. Look inside Northern California & Yosemite. If there's a shot you like, message me and I'll tell you how I got it with my settings.
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