macinga

check out Adorama TV .

Poison Ivey Loc: Mtn Brook, AL

This is a little past "Manual" but still pertinent. Headed to Costa Rica in a few weeks, so I asked a cousin to help me with Custom White Balance...boy, it sure improved the exposure hence the color. He had a "WhiBal" card (12% gray) and I thought the moon was hung on 18% Gray. I placed my Canon G-11 on Custom WB 1, pointed lens at the card, then hit "Menu" to seat the exposure. It made such a difference, I ordered one for the trip. Now I realize we have other White Balance options: AWB, Sun, Cloud, Flash and types of electric lights, but this zeros in on the correct exposure for a particular scene. I realize people can work with RAW. Google WhiBal and watch some of their excelllent Tutorials.

ole sarg Loc: south florida

Go to this site it really helps

http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator/

Remember the smaller the number the bigger the aperature, i.e. f1.8 creates a hole that is bigger than f22. The bigger the hole the more light that comes onto the sensor. Also, the bigger the hole means less depth of field. So to have everything in focus use a bigger number.

Guys does sorta cover things?

BOB Loc: Texas

BOB Loc: Texas

compare the f/stop with you eye when the light is bright it is small and when it low light it is a large opening /f 1.4 largest openng for dim light and f 16 + for bright light s.

BOB Loc: Texas

I leard about exposure back when I was learn how to use a camera , 35 mm with needle match light meter everything was manuel ISO , F stop and shutter speed .This reall help to understand the camera settings to get proper exposure .

George H Loc: Brooklyn, New York

Namwife,
I assume you are married to a Nam Vet? Let me see if I can explain it to you in a way you understand. F Stop and shutter speed are like a man and wife, they compliment each other when they work together. When either dominates the results become poorer. When you take the F stop say F 2.8 that is wide open and allows a lot of light, it also gives a shallow depth of field, less of the subject is in focus, mostly that behind the subject is blurred. A higher number F stop is a smaller opening that does not allow as much light but gives a deeper depth of field, things behind may now be in focus also. Shutter speeds on the other hand is how long the opening stays open. Best way to explain this is take 1 second, then slice it in 1600 pieces. Then you use those slices to keep the shutter open. The less you use the longer is stays open, the more used it closes much quicker.

Both of these combined with ISO create photos. ISO is how fast the camera picks up light. Lower number slow, higher number faster. Playing with the camera is the only way you can learn how these work with each other. Get a stenographers pad, set your camera and lens, then write down the settings, take the photos. Then change just one setting and record it, take the photo. Do this a number of times for F stops, then do it for Shutter Speed, then do it for ISO. Eventually you will begin to understand their relationships to each other. I would also recommend that you look for a mentor. Hope this helps.

George

Jessies5thkid

I'm an old guy, so when I was a teen-ager beginning to take pictures, I HAD to learn manual because that's all there was. The film manufacturers used to include a printed sheet with each roll of film, giving guidelines under various DAYLIGHT conditions. In a nutshell, here it is:

1. Set the shutter speed to roughly correspond to film speed (ASA or ISO), that is if you had ISO 400 film, set the shutter on 1/250 or 1/500, just above or below the film speed number. I don't remember any film speed of 125, 250, 500, 1000, etc., that exactly matched shutter speeds, but it was not a big problem, since film had some latitude for error. Some cameras back then had shutter speeds of 1/50, 1/100, 1/200, 1/400, and so on.

2. Then set f-stop (aperture) according to:
-- in snow or on beach with bright sun F22
-- bright sun F16
-- hazy sun or "cloudy but still bright" F11
-- under a tree on sunny day F8
-- deep shade F5.6

3. When using flash, go by the "Guide Number" for that flash unit. The guide number divided by the distance in feet will give you the F-stop to use. (Can you believe that some old cameras were not wired to use a flash? I have an old Argus C-2 35mm that had no connections for flash)

You weren't perfect the first time you skated, rode a bicycle, or drove a car, but experience will give you a "feel" for all these matters, so that you won't have to get out a calculator or exposure meter every time you start to use a camera. Oh, wait... we didn't have calculators, either, back in the dinosaur days. LOL.

Jimtebo Loc: Alhambra, IL

Here is a link to some beginner lessons: http://www.learntotakephotos.com/dslr_photography.php

rudynaval Loc: Los Angeles

Thank you for this informative link.

ole sarg Loc: south florida

But, we did have slide rulers....

Raybazan Loc: Rockport, TX

An item that will helpful is a good light meter. Think ahead of what you want to capture that will determine speed, f stop etc. Perfect focus is a must and a steady hand. There a lot of factors to consider but once you know what you want and know how to get to that point - your good to go.

Ray

ggttc Loc: TN

I agree with namwife

Your best method of learning is to read...read ..read...and then forget about it.

and then go out and shoot...pick a subect and do it at different f stops...you will find a place to learn...by doing it yourself

anotherview Loc: California

Ease into Manual mode. Try this way. Set your camera to Tv (Time Value = Shutter Speed). Turn the wheel that adjusts the SS to, say, 1/100 sec. Set the ISO to Auto mode.

With these 2 settings, the camera will select the Aperture (size of lens opening) and the ISO (sensor sensitivity) for the correct exposure.

Then try this way. Set your camera to Av (Aperture Value). Turn the wheel that adjusts the setting to say, f/5.6. Leave ISO set to Auto mode. The camera will select the SS.

Some pros use the P (Program mode). The P mode allows the camera to select all three variables (Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO) with the camera adjusting for correct exposure and the scene. Interestingly, in P mode you can adjust the ISO that the camera uses. Generally, I leave ISO set to Auto, but in conditions with plenty of light, I will set ISO to 100. You can good results this way.

Keep experimenting.

Do yourself a colossal favor, and gain an early functional understanding of aperture, ISO, and shutter speed. This Web site may help:

http://www.cameraporn.net/2007/12/24/aperture-iso-and-shutter-speed-the-good-kind-of-threesome/

This interesting Web site helps you learn the operational aspects of a DSLR without a camera:
The SLR Camera Simulator: http://camerasim.com/camera-simulator.html

Catoosa Jim

This was a great question I have been meaning to ask myself...manual is a mystery to me as well...you all provided great insights...thanks...