Apature priority ? (Page 5): Thank you both for the answer. MtnMan, I just started using a D5200 and have been trying to figure out how to best utilize the function buttons on the...

Picdude Loc: Ohio

amehta wrote:

In A, you have to set the aperture, and the camera... (show quote)

MtnMan wrote:

Sorry, but not quite with Nikons...which is what t... (show quote)

Thank you both for the answer. MtnMan, I just started using a D5200 and have been trying to figure out how to best utilize the function buttons on the camera. I've been kicking around the Back-Button focus idea but will now have to throw your old set-up into the mix.

wilsondl2 Loc: Lincoln, Nebraska

Picdude wrote:

Thank you both for the answer. MtnMan, I just started using a D5200 and have been trying to figure out how to best utilize the function buttons on the camera. I've been kicking around the Back-Button focus idea but will now have to throw your old set-up into the mix.

Since this is going a bit off threard - I have my camera on matrix metering and then set the func button to spot metering. I set ISO on auto with min shutter speed. - Dave

MtnMan Loc: ID

Picdude wrote:

Thank you both for the answer. MtnMan, I just started using a D5200 and have been trying to figure out how to best utilize the function buttons on the camera. I've been kicking around the Back-Button focus idea but will now have to throw your old set-up into the mix.

I tried several different uses of the function button before settling on ISO on my D5100. It worked for me but other choices might work better for you depending on the type of photography you do. For a while I tried it programmed for HDR.

I don't get the back button focus idea. I'm perfectly happy with half depressing the release for that purpose. I know I can use AEL/AFL also but never do.

My D800 has multiple programmable and dedicated buttons including a dedicated one for ISO. So on it I have the function button programmed for image area...which isn't an option on the D5200.

stan0301 Loc: Colorado

Doing outdoor portraits I know I don't want the background to get too interesting--so I want to shoot at about f2.8--at f1.4 you will start getting one eye in focus and the other out of focus if the head is turned--so setting the f to 2.8 works really well--and let you have more time to be interacting with your subject instead of having your nose in your camera.
Stan

glasskey Loc: Rockwood, Ontario, Canada

This may seem counterintuitive, but when shooting fast action outside, (barrel racing for example), I shoot in A priority. I know that I want to have the background out of focus making it less distracting. Setting my aperture to a wide opening guarantees that my SS will be fast enough to stop action. Of course if its a dreary day or later in the day I will have to up the ISO to keep my SS at a stop action speed. I just keep an eye on the SS. If I want to pan with the fast moving subject then I could use Shutter priority and set a slowish SS to blur or smear the background. But you could also leave it in A priority and close down the aperture until you reach the desired SS and create the same panning effect.

wilsondl2 Loc: Lincoln, Nebraska

Of course if you are shooting the moon your camera (or any other) will not work and you have to use M. Dave

Respectfully disagree, I shoot the moon quite often and can tell you the best method is to shoot in Shutter Priority at 1/800. Remember the moon is a moving object and and is an extremely bright object.....most of my moon shots show a shutter speed of 1/800, F6.7 and ISO of 200

When I shoot the moon my lenses are not long enough to not include a lot of black sky so if on auto I have to go to M or the moon will overexpose. My settings come close to yours. If I ever get a longer lens I will go auto and I'm pretty sure it will work. - Dave

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

wilsondl2 wrote:

Of course if you are shooting the moon your camera... (show quote)

:thumbup: :thumbup:

I also use a wireless shutter release for moon shots.

dickwilber Loc: Indiana (currently)

The moon is bathed in sunlight. It is a "Sunny 16" exposure. (Set aperture to f/16 and time to the reciprocal of the ISO/ASA rating, i.e., f/16 at 1/200 at ISO/ASA 200 .) Of course, that shows the moon as it actually appears, gray, and we perceive it as quite bright because we see it against a black background and so most prefer it opened up a stop. The f/6.7 at 1/800 and ISO/ASA of 200 noted above is a sunny 16 exposure using a higher shutter speed to stop its motion, and opened up 1/2 stop. The moon is very small in a big black sky so it is very hard to meter, but this formula always works in manual mode.

Marionsho Loc: Kansas

dsmeltz wrote:

:thumbup: :thumbup:

I also use a wireless shutter release for moon shots.

I shot the moon on the last full moon. I set the 10 sec. shutter delay so as to not have to touch the camera during exposure. (I don't own a remote). I'm taking a photography class at the local Jr. College and the local pro teaching the class wants us to shoot in manual mode at all times. He says using any other mode takes away full control of the camera. Very true, but if you are shooting something that is moving quickly and want to get the shot, then by all means use another mode that will allow you to at least get 'something'. Unless you are good enough with your camera to adjust it quickly enough as to still get the shot. I was using my new Canon G1x and wanted to shot the cat running through the backyard. I wanted to use manual, but had no choice but to set it on P and shoot. Then I went in the house and read the manual.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Marionsho wrote:

I shot the moon on the last full moon. I set the 1... (show quote)

"When all else fails... read the manual!" I don't know who said that, but I like it. I also admire people who can sit a read a manual. I don't understand how anyone can do that, but I admire the ability. :)

Marionsho Loc: Kansas

dsmeltz wrote:

"When all else fails... read the manual!" I don't know who said that, but I like it. I also admire people who can sit a read a manual. I don't understand how anyone can do that, but I admire the ability. :)

Yes, and recently read where you should read it from the back to the front. What I hate is the fact that I have to go to my computer to read my G1x manual. Canon must be saving paper. I've never taken a photography class where the instructor didn't stress to "keep your manual handy at all times". I do have a 'cheat sheet' that is quite handy. Thanks everyone for all the replies to this question.

Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada

al davis wrote:

As an amature or hobbiest photographer I have to ask this question. I have noticed over the years that a lot of pro's use apature priority. I have shot manual for many years and the reason is for control over my shots. What are the advantages if any? One thing I do understand is shutter speed. Also would it make a difference of the subject your shooting to go from manual to another mode or is it just preferance? :? :?

Here's an 8 minute video that will explain why you might want to consider shutter priority instead.
http://youtu.be/4_lO1D7y88o

Racmanaz Loc: Sunny Tucson!

Ya I usually always shoot on AP, Manual shooting is too risky for me because I might quickly change the aperture and then forget to change the shutter speed.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Racmanaz wrote:

Ya I usually always shoot on AP, Manual shooting is too risky for me because I might quickly change the aperture and then forget to change the shutter speed.

Give it a week and I can guarantee...it will be second nature O:-)

cidbearit Loc: Canton, MI, USA

rpavich wrote:

Ok...I'll try again. br br br Go outside...point... (show quote)

Okay...now I'm confused. In your example, the ambient light is constant, but the light being reflected to the camera's sensor changes based on the tone and reflectivity of the image field.

In my mind, the exposure level would change in a situation where the ambient light was constant, but the tones/reflectivity of the subject were changed. Doesn't the camera measure exposure based on the quality/quantity of light hitting its sensor (what's reflected by the subject and its surrounding field)?

Help me understand....