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Canon SX50
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Jan 20, 2014 05:38:08   #
Bob Andrews Loc: Scotland
 
I found it problematic at full zoom if there was a lot of movement in the scene. The camera is I think trying to focus on a small area and gets confused. Try photographing static scenes and remember to press the stabiliser button on the left hand side of the lens.

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Jan 20, 2014 06:41:24   #
patcam Loc: chelmsford essex uk
 
taglo1 wrote:
I just purchased a Canon SX50 and although I like the zoom feature I find that the photos are not as sharp as they should be. I have to do post-edited to make them sharp. Has anyone else had this problem.


I'm afraid that is the penalty you have to pay in exchange for huge zoom, you can't have the best of both worlds, to get really sharp photos you need a DSLR,
nothing in life is perfect!

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Jan 20, 2014 08:47:28   #
EAL Loc: Western NC
 
Linda From Maine wrote:
There are dozens of happy SX50 users on UHH - including .


I have another question on the SX50.. Relatively new to me but took it on a trip and opted to use the Program mode as a time saver.. worked very well except for a few times when the light was very bright. The pics. were totally blown out, way overexposed. Tried other modes with little improvement until I used Auto and that seemed to work. Any thoughts or possible explanations? I acknowledge that I have a lot to learn on this camera and recently "life" has certainly gotten in the way of doing that.... but I have hope! Any help appreciated.

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Jan 20, 2014 08:51:03   #
Jim McDonald Loc: Ellsinore, Mo.
 
Suggested on the Canon forum site, to utilize the "Framing Assist-Lock" found on the barrel of the lens (pg. 57 in the manual) when you are at the end of a long zoom. You press it while composing your shot. I haven't tried it yet, but his photos were quite impressive.

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Jan 20, 2014 08:54:35   #
Jim McDonald Loc: Ellsinore, Mo.
 
Bob Andrews wrote:
I found it problematic at full zoom if there was a lot of movement in the scene. The camera is I think trying to focus on a small area and gets confused. Try photographing static scenes and remember to press the stabiliser button on the left hand side of the lens.


Sorry about repeating what Bob had already said...I type slow, and several had already posted comments before I had submitted mine!

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Jan 20, 2014 09:06:20   #
ggttc Loc: TN
 
taglo1 wrote:
I just purchased a Canon SX50 and although I like the zoom feature I find that the photos are not as sharp as they should be. I have to do post-edited to make them sharp. Has anyone else had this problem.


I think this is a common problem when your starting out with the sx50...I know I experienced it and so did my wife who has taken over that camera...

The long zoom is terribly sensitive to movement...you have to picture yourself shooting with a real live 1200mm lens...would you shoot without a tripod?

My wife's sx50 lives on a tripod...and shoots 90% of her long shots with a remote release. Check out her posts ---sleepydrdr---

That being said there are lots of folks here that can shoot a the long side of the zoom hand held. I just ain't one of them...

Your going to hear that you cant get dslr quality pictures with the sx50...and in extreme situations you cant. But overall the little camera is capable of taking exceptional pictures with a little practice.

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Jan 20, 2014 09:08:56   #
Bob Andrews Loc: Scotland
 
ggttc wrote:
I think this is a common problem when your starting out with the sx50...I know I experienced it and so did my wife who has taken over that camera...

The long zoom is terribly sensitive to movement...you have to picture yourself shooting with a real live 1200mm lens...would you shoot without a tripod?

My wife's sx50 lives on a tripod...and shoots 90% of her long shots with a remote release. Check out her posts ---sleepydrdr---

That being said there are lots of folks here that can shoot a the long side of the zoom hand held. I just ain't one of them...

Your going to hear that you cant get dslr quality pictures with the sx50...and in extreme situations you cant. But overall the little camera is capable of taking exceptional pictures with a little practice.
I think this is a common problem when your startin... (show quote)


The last sentence sums it up however I find it harder to use than a DSLR

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Jan 20, 2014 09:21:17   #
sarge69 Loc: Ft Myers, FL
 
taglo1 wrote:
Ok I'll stop breathing. Thanks.


Practice and learn your limits. Hate to loose you.

Sarge69
:lol: :lol:

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Jan 20, 2014 09:22:33   #
bee7474 Loc: Selah, Wa
 
I do hold my breath when shooting the SX50 as I am not steady, however I am 82 so that may be part of the problem. Bee

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Jan 20, 2014 09:34:31   #
usjetjock
 
Never liked this camera...huge zoom, but pic quality of an iPhone.

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Jan 20, 2014 09:37:38   #
alf85 Loc: Northumberland, UK.
 
patcam wrote:
I'm afraid that is the penalty you have to pay in exchange for huge zoom, you can't have the best of both worlds, to get really sharp photos you need a DSLR,
nothing in life is perfect!


Dont let the above put you off, here are two photos, one far off, and one close up, i use a tripod and cable release.
Regards, Alfie.





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Jan 20, 2014 09:49:39   #
dragoncello
 
Lots of helpful suggestions from others here, and I'll add two more.

One is to put the camera into continuous shooting mode, rather than single shot mode. Then press the shutter and listen to it click off 3 shots. Often the first shot is just fine, but if I've jiggled the camera while pressing the shutter release, my hand will be steady again during the next two shots and I have two back ups to choose from that are likely to be better. I use this more frequently for a dark interior at fairly wide angle, though I've also used it outdoors. This is somewhat similar to the suggestion made earlier about shooting in High-speed Burst HQ in the Scene mode, but in that case the camera takes over and uses automatic settings if that matters to you.

The second solution is one I use outdoors at extreme zoom, where a secondary problem is that the slightest movement of the camera can dramatically alter the framing of a shot, sometimes cutting off part that you might have wanted to retain. Set the self-timer to 2-second delay. Then when you press the shutter release, you have 2 seconds--a perfect amount of time--to reframe the shot if it got messed up, stop breathing, brace yourself, and let the camera take the shot while you're holding steady. Needless to say, this works better with architectural details than it does with birds in flight.

I have the SX50, but these suggestions would presumably work with any super zoom.

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Jan 20, 2014 09:55:47   #
Wahawk Loc: NE IA
 
patcam wrote:
I'm afraid that is the penalty you have to pay in exchange for huge zoom, you can't have the best of both worlds, to get really sharp photos you need a DSLR,
nothing in life is perfect!


Not true!! You can get SHARP images from most any camera (except those sold in toy sections, etc) from $50 on up!! You just have to LEARN how to hold and properly shoot. I have seen just as many 'unsharp' pictures from dSLR owners that don't know how to use their equipment!!

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Jan 20, 2014 10:52:19   #
Mr_Mel Loc: Middletown PA
 
I was checking out DPR forums and found this link, which appears to be quite helpful. It's an in depth video about using the SX50. There are a number of tutorials this guy does too.
Review
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_iy8lCJtN0

Tutorial 1 (the rest are at the side of the page).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_2083699531&feature=iv&src_vid=B_iy8lCJtN0&v=qzokasX1ILA

I'll be checking out the other episodes as I have time.

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Jan 20, 2014 11:14:04   #
taglo1 Loc: Norfolk VA via NYC
 
alf85 wrote:
Dont let the above put you off, here are two photos, one far off, and one close up, i use a tripod and cable release.
Regards, Alfie.


Thanks so much for your encouragement.

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