Creating HDR
Jan 12, 2014 06:31:46 #
manderson wrote:
I am interested in trying HDR. I use a Nikon D5000 and shoot in RAW normally. If I want to create an HDR, am I better off using JPEG with multiple exposures or shooting in RAW and using the HDR that is available in PSCS6?
Shoot in RAW! Here are a couple of resources to investigate.
http://farbspiel-photo.com/learn/hdr-resource-index/tutorials
http://essenceinphotography.com/beginning-your-journey-to-perfect-hdr-photography/processing-a-prefect-hdr-photograph/
Jan 12, 2014 06:46:00 #
manderson wrote:
I just assumed that if I was shooting in RAW I wouldn't need the multiple exposures.
You still the multiple exposures in RAW. It is the combination of exposures that give the best (proper) HDR effect and detail.
Jan 12, 2014 07:15:00 #
A bit of overkill to do a white balance IME, but whatever floats your boat. The rule of thumb is that your darkest exposure should have absolutely no blown highlights and your lightest exposure should have detail in the darkest shadows, hopefully around zone 4 in order to avoid excess noise in the dark areas. My most extreme HDR was seven EV each side of "normal" in order to achieve this, but it really depends on you contrast range.I recommend no more than two EV apart between the steps. If you are deghosting using Photomatix then one EV apart is better to give you more good options. RAW is so much better than jpg that it is not worth discussing.
Jan 12, 2014 07:51:33 #
Frank47 wrote:
I haven't done a lot of HDR, but I have always thought the intent was to extend the dynamic range beyond what a single exposure can provide whether you shoot RAW or JPEG. Hence, multiple exposures. Most frequently I use three exposures at -2 and +2 stops plus the metered exposure. For software I use Photomatix Pro. Never really been serious about it though, just fun to experiment with something different.
If your subject is still, use a tripod and take a number of RAW photos using a range of exposure settings. That way, if you find that the normal -2, 0, +2 doesn't turn out as expected, you can go to, for example, -3, 0, +1.
However, I find too many situations where there is movement that doesn't allow multiple exposures and that I can get only one shot (my Nikon D3100 doesn't have bracketing). Then, I use my pp program (Corel PaintShop Pro X5 Ultimate) to create the different exposures. That works for RAW, not jpg.
Jan 12, 2014 07:56:20 #
I'm just assuming, so we all know what happens when we assume. Now if we shoot in raw are we not allowed to adjust the exposure to a single image plus or minus?
Jan 12, 2014 08:12:48 #
dwightdills wrote:
I'm just assuming, so we all know what happens when we assume. Now if we shoot in raw are we not allowed to adjust the exposure to a single image plus or minus?
Of course you are allowed to adjust to a single stop either way. It all depends on the dynamic range of your scene. Your camera meter can average out a scene that has 5-7 stops difference between the extremes(black and white). So a 1 stop change may suffice. In a dark cathedral with bright sunlight hitting stain glass windows, you will need more than +/- 1 stop (and number of images too) to expose for the extremes. Most other times, I find +/- 2 stops just about right.
Jan 12, 2014 08:47:41 #
Photomatix Pro has a feature called "selective deghosting" that allows you to select multiple areas with movement and choose the frame which you want to use at the base for each selected area. It is absolutely brilliant. If you don't move the camera too much (tripod alert!) you can do a number of manual brackets and make beautiful HDRs from them, eliminating interframe movement.
Jan 12, 2014 09:13:40 #
To do HDR typically the bracketed shots are N, +1, -1. A single raw shot can't create the difference.
I keep the camera set to raw and jpg. The nikon I have allows me to bracket anywhere from 2,3,5,7 or 9 frames.
Typically 3 is enough though.
I keep the camera set to raw and jpg. The nikon I have allows me to bracket anywhere from 2,3,5,7 or 9 frames.
Typically 3 is enough though.
Jan 12, 2014 10:04:34 #
manderson wrote:
I am interested in trying HDR. I use a Nikon D5000 and shoot in RAW normally. If I want to create an HDR, am I better off using JPEG with multiple exposures or shooting in RAW and using the HDR that is available in PSCS6?
Hi manderson,
I shoot in HDR and I also shoot in RAW when doing HDR. I am not familiar with the Nikon but on my Canon 6D I have where I can bracket 3, 5, 7 automatically using the bracketing or I can just do it manually by changing -3 >> 0 << 3 on my EV(exposure compensation) how ever many times I want to bracket my exposures. Whether or not you use raw or jpg for this which you can, BUT the raw with some programs give you more control over the colors and light of the bracketed images. Or I can select HDR in my camera menu system. I have not done that process yet because I am so use to manually shooting HDR with my Bracketing, but I will have to check it out. GOOD LUCK
Jan 12, 2014 10:16:08 #
The number of brackets will depend entirely on the contrast range contained within your image. I have had to use up to 15 EV on some images containing a totally dark interior with a window in the distance. My night HDRs are typically 7 to 9 EV.
Jan 12, 2014 10:43:33 #
Dave Tx I am interested in what you said and would like to try it. Myself I don't like to carry a tripod with me. I will use a mono pod sometimes but not to much. Can you post a photo using your process....Rich
Jan 12, 2014 11:05:24 #
I have a Nikon d5100 and there is in camera HDR, but you have to be in jpeg. I don't know about the d5000.
Jan 12, 2014 11:41:00 #
Here is a quick 5 bracketed HDR, nothing great but it kind of works. Using photomatix.
Jan 12, 2014 11:45:17 #
Hopefully this will work. This is the 5 bracket HDR done with photomax, sorry it didn't load the first try. I should have shot 7 to 9 brackets and then could have made a better photo where the underexposed areas are. Also could have used a filter to cut through the haze better. IMO I try to use HDR, as many of us do, to make the photo as close as possible to what I actually was able to see. Just have fun and try all kinds of different things !
Jan 12, 2014 12:12:51 #
PhotoPhred wrote:
I have a Nikon d5100 and there is in camera HDR, but you have to be in jpeg. I don't know about the d5000.
:shock: But can you do in-camera bracketing in NEF (RAW) or is it just in-camera HDR that will only do jpeg?
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