Focus for indoor basketball
Jan 7, 2014 19:32:07 #
I need help. I have a Nikon D-90. What is the best focusing method to use to keep players in focus? I have three setting on the camera. I have been using continuous mode. Any other ideas would be a big help. These have been edited by Picasa.
Thank You.
Thank You.
Jan 7, 2014 19:40:43 #
One of the problems is all that bright glass - easy to confuse a camera...
Learn how to use the central "spot" metering setting in your D90 (AF-C and rotate the rear dial to the central spot, IIRC); use this mode and put the spot on a player you want to focus on. Once you have your exposure metered, it is not going to change much in the course of an afternoon, usually, so you can use the rule of thirds to adjust for depth of field, etc.
Dave
Learn how to use the central "spot" metering setting in your D90 (AF-C and rotate the rear dial to the central spot, IIRC); use this mode and put the spot on a player you want to focus on. Once you have your exposure metered, it is not going to change much in the course of an afternoon, usually, so you can use the rule of thirds to adjust for depth of field, etc.
Dave
Jan 7, 2014 20:25:59 #
Check out Astronomical Photography Forum section of our forum.
Jan 7, 2014 21:23:44 #
sbesaw
Loc: Boston
AF continuous works well to follow the play coming toward you, e.g. if you are shooting from under the basket. your SS should be min 1/250 to 1/400. You'll need to bump the ISO and can probably stay pretty clean a 1250 although I don't remember where I got noisy on the D90. I know some one mentions metering but I thought you asked about focusing. I would keep aperture at 2.8 if you have it or 3.5 if possible. Spot focus on the chest where team names or numbers give you enough contrast to acquire focus. I try, when not sanctioned by the college, to charm my why onto the baseline. I use 24-70 and 70-200 both 2.8 on a FF Nikon Body and shoot long glass down court and 24-70 under basket. Good luck, indoor basketball and hockey are two of the toughest things to shoot. It is tough to shoot fast moving subjects and it is tough to shoot in crappy light, combine the two and you have basketball and hockey.
Jan 7, 2014 21:31:39 #
Thanks for getting back to me. Last week I tried everything under the sun for exposure and focus. Iso from 800-3200, I think the best under the lighting of the gym was iso 2000 640th @ 4.5. for exposure. I would think I would stop the action better than what I got. Lens is 18-200 3.5. I would not want to buy a better lens at this time. It's only my grandson's games in high school. I doubt he's going pro, but he thinks he is.
Thanks again.
Jules from Las Vegas
Thanks again.
Jules from Las Vegas
Jan 7, 2014 21:32:30 #
The most trouble I'm having is motion from side to side. I can't sit under the basket, no room.
Jan 7, 2014 21:37:41 #
Check out Smartphone Photography section of our forum.
Jan 7, 2014 21:53:52 #
sbesaw
Loc: Boston
I'm calling it a night. If you can resend last two and check store original box I'll take a closer look. 1/500 should be plenty fast enough and the exposure looks ok. Spot focus on primary player and shoot in AF-C. At 200mm f4 shooting from 50 feet your total DOF is 3.01 feet so anyone further than that from point of focus will Start to be out of focus. If you have an iPhone or iPad go to App Store and chck out DOFMaster..great app
Jan 7, 2014 22:50:58 #
olcoach
Loc: Oregon
Jules I think you're getting some fine shots. I am shooting my granddaughter's games and the gyms are considerably darker than the one you are shooting in but your shots show action well and they are clear.
Jan 7, 2014 23:09:36 #
Jaackil
Loc: Massachusetts
juleskarney wrote:
I need help. I have a Nikon D-90. What is the best focusing method to use to keep players in focus? I have three setting on the camera. I have been using continuous mode. Any other ideas would be a big help. These have been edited by Picasa.
Thank You.
Thank You.
Your Shots actually look pretty good. What are you trying to get in focus? All of the players? Or just a specific player?
I have a suggestion for you to try that I got here on UHH. I am trying to learn how to shoot hockey and face similar issues. I set my Nikon on AF-C and Single Point Focus. Dont try to get everyone in focus just focus on 1 player in each shot. Set your focus point on the body of your subject. We have a tendency to try to focus on faces but that is too small an area. At F 4.0 your depth of field will be deep enough to keep the faces in focus. The small area of the face will move out of your focus point quickly but by focusing on the torso will allow you to hold your subject in focus a little longer.
The other thing I would suggest, look at alot of Professional Pictures. I google Hockey Pictures and look at what the pro's are shooting to get an idea of the types of pictures that will be most interesting. That will give you an idea what you should focus on.
Good Luck
Jan 8, 2014 09:07:51 #
Thank you I will try your suggestions. I think the main problem is the gym doesn't have enough room for me to be under the basket, so I am always panning from the side and the front row of the bleachers.
Check out Drone Video and Photography Forum section of our forum.
Jan 8, 2014 09:08:10 #
Shooting in the gyms most kids play in is a challenge since the lighting is not the best. Since this is the case, a lens with an aperture of at least f/2.8 is usually required to get a shutter speed of 1/500 or greater to minimize motion blur. If you are able to get to the baseline and have the action come towards you, you can get away with a shutter speed of 1/320 but you will still have some blur in the moving appendages. My typical setting for a high school game is f/2.8, 1/640-1/1000, and an iso of 6400. I know you said you didn't want to buy new glass, but a 50mm lens with an aperture of f/1.8 can be had for around $100 and would be perfect for the gyms. I can get settings of f/2, 1/1000, iso 2500 with this set up. Set AF-C and single point to make sure you are focused on your subject and aim at the chest. One more thing, if you time the shot at the peak of the jump, you can also minimize motion blur in your subject.
Jan 8, 2014 09:08:19 #
Jan 8, 2014 09:35:15 #
Jaackil
Loc: Massachusetts
I will second the 50 mm 1.8 suggestion! I use it almost exclusively for Hockey and it is great.
Also you say you cant get on the baseline under the basket. That should not be that big of a problem. Shooting from the sides or corners can be fine. You just have to realize you cant shoot everything so you start to look for just good shots.
Also you say you cant get on the baseline under the basket. That should not be that big of a problem. Shooting from the sides or corners can be fine. You just have to realize you cant shoot everything so you start to look for just good shots.
Jan 8, 2014 10:11:23 #
sbesaw
Loc: Boston
Just a thought, why can't you get against the wall at the corner of the baseline? Look at your last picture. See the door? See the outlets to the right of the door? I would start right with a squared cushion for my bony ass? Also makes you look like you belong. If you have another camera throw it across your other shoulder. Get there early. Shoot warmups. Then just keep sliding over a foot at a time :-D :D you can also kneel on the cushion
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Check out Street Photography section of our forum.