Hyperfocal distance
Dec 6, 2013 09:17:32 #
windshoppe wrote:
...I've been using this method for years with excellent results
(including the use of f/22 on my full frame camera, I should add).
(including the use of f/22 on my full frame camera, I should add).
F/22 on a full frame camera is about where diffraction begins to show up. That's why lenses made for 35mm film normally stop there. They may go higher for macro lenses where DOF is more important than diffraction. But like depth of field, this also depends on depends on print size, viewing distance and visual acuity.
You will reach the "diffraction limited" level sooner with smaller sensors and you can go higher with medium and large format cameras. But you practically have to pixel peep to see the defect.
See also: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography.htm
Dec 6, 2013 12:41:20 #
The Meyer Pocket Range Finder. $15 to $30 on eBay typically. Gives distance to selected focal point in feet ranging from 2.5 to 100. Has a mount to fit on hot shoe mount if you want to avoid hand holding.
Typically you want to avoid the "Golf" range finders - more for greater distances.
Typically you want to avoid the "Golf" range finders - more for greater distances.
Dec 6, 2013 13:46:55 #
OonlyBonly wrote:
The Meyer Pocket Range Finder. $15 to $30 on eBay typically. Gives distance to selected focal point in feet ranging from 2.5 to 100. Has a mount to fit on hot shoe mount if you want to avoid hand holding.
Typically you want to avoid the "Golf" range finders - more for greater distances.
Typically you want to avoid the "Golf" range finders - more for greater distances.
That's quite the blast from the past!
Dec 6, 2013 16:53:54 #
I use a DOF calculator on my cell phone. There are several to choose from, most are free.
Dec 6, 2013 19:05:39 #
In Bryan Peterson's book, "Understanding Composition," he simplifies focusing. On both crop and full frame cameras he uses an aperture of f/22. At a 75-degree angle of view (18mm on the digital 18- 55mm zoom) he manual focuses on an object 6 feet from the lens.
With a 12-24mm wide angle zoom at a focal length between 12 and 16mm, he focuses on something 3 feet away.
With full-frame using focal lengths between 14 and 24mm he focuses at 3 feet. If between 25 and 28mm he focuses at 6 feet.
In a quick exam of his photos with foreground objects his procedure is confirmed. You might give it a try.
If I could take photos like him I wouldn't have anything to complain about.
With a 12-24mm wide angle zoom at a focal length between 12 and 16mm, he focuses on something 3 feet away.
With full-frame using focal lengths between 14 and 24mm he focuses at 3 feet. If between 25 and 28mm he focuses at 6 feet.
In a quick exam of his photos with foreground objects his procedure is confirmed. You might give it a try.
If I could take photos like him I wouldn't have anything to complain about.
Dec 6, 2013 23:27:33 #
RJN wrote:
In Bryan Peterson's book, "Understanding Comp... (show quote)
:thumbup: And it's even easier to use the distance scale on your lens - put it on manual focus and set the distance.
Dec 7, 2013 23:17:01 #
The 20D Canon has a setting that automatically optimizes depth of fielded. Considering all the features that are built in today I dont know why this has disappeared. I actually have never truly tested it, preferring to use the preview button. The idea seems like a good one. The camera is aware of the lens focal length, f stop and focus distance.
Id would stay away from f 22 and f 8 or 16. Try the focus in 1/3 technique. Be sure the front of the picture in focus. If that isnt sharp youll be disappointed results. With large format cameras this was an issue to deal with. With the small sensors today you are likely to get too much depth of field.
You have to be high up on the photo game before depth of field becomes a big worry. Being the type that does obsess over these things I would recommend not obsessing over it.
Id would stay away from f 22 and f 8 or 16. Try the focus in 1/3 technique. Be sure the front of the picture in focus. If that isnt sharp youll be disappointed results. With large format cameras this was an issue to deal with. With the small sensors today you are likely to get too much depth of field.
You have to be high up on the photo game before depth of field becomes a big worry. Being the type that does obsess over these things I would recommend not obsessing over it.
Dec 7, 2013 23:59:16 #
Dec 8, 2013 00:15:21 #
WAL wrote:
The 20D Canon has a setting that automatically opt... (show quote)
I had a 20D and used that feature frequently. It was quite effective.
Dec 8, 2013 03:25:52 #
Pablo8
Loc: Nottingham UK.
When I did a lot of IR on film. I set the Hyperfocal distance (8ft.)on the 35mm Summaron and using f/16., everything from 4ft to infinity was in(acceptable)focus.I usually taped the focus lever to stop accidental movement.I prefered using the Leica 111c for infra-red, as the dense filter could stay on the lens all of the time. The standard exposure in bright sunshine was 1/100 @ f/16. If it wasn't sunny, there wasn't much point in shooting IR.
Dec 8, 2013 03:38:00 #
Pablo8
Loc: Nottingham UK.
[quote=Haydon]The only way to keep everything in focus is by focus stacking or by using a tilt-shift lens.
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Using tilt-shift will give a close object and a distant object sharp focus. But not necessarily all points between those distances will be in sharp focus. Some stopping down will be needed. The Schiemflug-rule provides the theory on that one.
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Using tilt-shift will give a close object and a distant object sharp focus. But not necessarily all points between those distances will be in sharp focus. Some stopping down will be needed. The Schiemflug-rule provides the theory on that one.
Dec 8, 2013 05:53:33 #
Hi Wal, I gave exactly the same advice in an earlier reply, you have given excellent advice and to follow this will go a long way to ensure a good DOF.
Cheers
John
Cheers
John
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