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pondering a f2.8 lens?
Oct 26, 2013 14:24:55 #
rpavich wrote:
Same with this picture; there is noise because you... (show quote)
AGREED ! You need a better exposure and/or fill flash !
Oct 26, 2013 15:19:14 #
Karelowe: I just did some research on the new Tamron 70-200 2.8. with vc. This lens was compared to the Nikon and the Canon. For the money, this lens is a deal and very sharp. Check out you-tube and punch this in. You will see some outstanding results with this lens and the price is right at $1499 with a $100 rebate. Saw this lens in action yesterday at a RC Plane show and I was impressed. Fast focus, sharp lens. Much better than the Sigma lens. Good luck with your decision.
Oct 26, 2013 15:31:21 #
juicesqueezer wrote:
Karelowe: I just did some research on the new Tamron 70-200 2.8. with vc. This lens was compared to the Nikon and the Canon. For the money, this lens is a deal and very sharp. Check out you-tube and punch this in. You will see some outstanding results with this lens and the price is right at $1499 with a $100 rebate. Saw this lens in action yesterday at a RC Plane show and I was impressed. Fast focus, sharp lens. Much better than the Sigma lens. Good luck with your decision.
Thank you. I will continue my research. I am definitely not opposed to 3rd party or used if that is the direction I go. Thank you for your input and research.
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Oct 26, 2013 15:38:08 #
karelowe wrote:
Thank you. I will continue my research. I am definitely not opposed to 3rd party or used if that is the direction I go. Thank you for your input and research.
Can I ask a question (and I'm being very sincere)
Do you just want a fast lens and are looking for a reason to get one or are you actually trying to solve your issue of "less than stellar" exposures?
No offense intended... please don't take any, I'm asking so I understand what's going on in this thread, that's all.
Oct 26, 2013 15:48:54 #
I am wanting better pictures. I did just download the book by Lindsey Adler regarding problem lighting
I am only 3 years into photography so know there is lots still for me to learn. I don't use a tripod very much, because of what I shoot, so a slow shutter doesn't work. That means I am usually shooting wide open which is okay (although theory says my pictures would be sharper at 5.6 or 8, etc) That means raising my ISO to get the shot, and then the noise. In reading metadata from pictures I look at, many are shot with a 2.8 lens
..I am sure because it is faster, etc. It just got me wondering if people felt a 2.8 was significantly better or not. It seems I have gotten both sides of the fence, which is normal I am sure.
Oct 26, 2013 16:27:55 #
karelowe wrote:
I am wanting better pictures. I did just download the book by Lindsey Adler regarding problem lighting
I am only 3 years into photography so know there is lots still for me to learn.
No problem...I'm a newcomer also.
Quote:
I don't use a tripod very much, because of what I shoot, so a slow shutter doesn't work. That means I am usually shooting wide open which is okay (although theory says my pictures would be sharper at 5.6 or 8, etc) That means raising my ISO to get the shot, and then the noise.
I don't use a tripod very much, because of what I shoot, so a slow shutter doesn't work. That means I am usually shooting wide open which is okay (although theory says my pictures would be sharper at 5.6 or 8, etc) That means raising my ISO to get the shot, and then the noise.
But that's precisely what I'm trying to tell you...you are shooting at ISO 400...if you expose correctly, you won't have noise, it's not a high ISO problem
Quote:
In reading metadata from pictures I look at, many are shot with a 2.8 lens ..I am sure because it is faster, etc. It just got me wondering if people felt a 2.8 was significantly better or not. It seems I have gotten both sides of the fence, which is normal I am sure.
In reading metadata from pictures I look at, many are shot with a 2.8 lens ..I am sure because it is faster, etc. It just got me wondering if people felt a 2.8 was significantly better or not. It seems I have gotten both sides of the fence, which is normal I am sure.
It's only there to solve a problem a person might have or to give an effect that a person wants....it's just a tool.
Trust me, shooting outdoors and even in the shade...a lens that has a max aperture of f/4 is more than fine at this point.
That's a great book that you downloaded...I've read it several times...let me know how you like it.
Oct 26, 2013 16:29:05 #
Karelowe, no matter WHAT, lens you use, you still need the flash.
Your first problem is light, not lens.
Good luck.
SS
Your first problem is light, not lens.
Good luck.
SS
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Oct 26, 2013 16:44:36 #
Oct 26, 2013 16:51:47 #
I have not read all the posts in this thread, so if someone covered this I am sorry. The 2.8 will give you a brighter viewfinder. Also for portraits you really want the huge increase in quality that a prime lens will give you. I have the 5DMKII one of my primes is the Sig 50mm f/1.4 a little short for a portrait lens though. I would think you would want a prime lens in the 85mm to 135mm range. I am giving this lens a serious look. I know you said 2.8 but it may be worth a look for you. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12182-USA/Canon_2519A003_85mm_f_1_8_USM_Autofocus.html
Oct 26, 2013 16:59:16 #
Thanks everyone. Off to do more homework:) I am beginning to think I need to re-read Bryan Petersons Exposure book as well.
Kind of off the topic but maybe not so much and maybe I need to start a new thread, but will ask it here as a start since it is about metering. I am using back button focus on the Mark III. My options for that seem a little confusing compared to what I have read about other peoples options. On my menu, the shutter button options are: 1. Metering and AF start. 2. Metering start, and 3. AE Lock (while button pressed. I have selected option 2. Is that correct? Also, on my AF-ON button, my options are: 1, Metering and AF start, 2. AE lock, 3. AF-Off, 4. FE lock, 5, AE lock (hold), and 6. Off. I have chosen number 1. But, that almost sounds like I am still duplicating the metering which I am wondering if that is throwing off some of my shots?
Kind of off the topic but maybe not so much and maybe I need to start a new thread, but will ask it here as a start since it is about metering. I am using back button focus on the Mark III. My options for that seem a little confusing compared to what I have read about other peoples options. On my menu, the shutter button options are: 1. Metering and AF start. 2. Metering start, and 3. AE Lock (while button pressed. I have selected option 2. Is that correct? Also, on my AF-ON button, my options are: 1, Metering and AF start, 2. AE lock, 3. AF-Off, 4. FE lock, 5, AE lock (hold), and 6. Off. I have chosen number 1. But, that almost sounds like I am still duplicating the metering which I am wondering if that is throwing off some of my shots?
Oct 26, 2013 17:06:20 #
Raymond wrote:
Looks good to me!
Thanks for the redo .It does look great. Most pictures are "fixable" so maybe I just need to keep thinking of that as well.
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Oct 26, 2013 17:24:27 #
karelowe wrote:
Thanks everyone. Off to do more homework:) I am ... (show quote)
http://www.melissajill.com/blog.cfm?postID=690
Oct 26, 2013 17:32:02 #
rpavich wrote:
http://www.melissajill.com/blog.cfm?postID=690
Thanks for the link, but the settings on my Mark III are totally different ..
Oct 26, 2013 18:12:07 #
http://www.atrero.com/articles/canon-eos-5d-mark-iii-af-settings/ Found this for the Mark III. Just wondered if the metering for the shutter and metering for the back button focus worked against each other
.
Oct 26, 2013 18:12:43 #
karelowe wrote:
Thanks for the link, but the settings on my Mark III are totally different
..
Try this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqX1FO1XGFI
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