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Recommended Canon lens
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Sep 29, 2013 11:26:15   #
jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska
 
I have the 60D and most of the "good" Canon EF-S lenses, but IMO by far the all around best is the 17-55 f/2.8 IS. "Reasonably" priced is subjective, of course. It's not cheap but is built well and is very sharp.

OzTex wrote:
Recently given a Canon 60D by my wife with EFS 18-135 IS lens. Great setup that I am still learning to use.

Looking to get an additional lens to use indoors, mainly to photograph people. The zoom lens I have is great but maximum aperture opening is limiting for indoor / low light conditions. I like trying to use available light or subtle flash lighting to capture people when possible.

Any recommendations for a good, reasonably priced, lens around 50mm and f 1.8? Some zoom range nice but not necessary. Macro capability also nice but not necessary - may need a separate macro lens eventually.

Appreciate suggestions from the group.
Recently given a Canon 60D by my wife with EFS 18-... (show quote)

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Sep 29, 2013 12:10:13   #
Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada
 
rpavich wrote:
Just remember, DOF is very much a product of distance and not just aperture.

You can shoot at f/2 at someone 50 feet away and the DOF will be large, and then shoot someone at f/4 at 5 feet and the DOF will be very shallow.

It's relative. A fast lens isn't the be-all-end-all...people just keep saying it and perpetuating that idea.


:thumbup:

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Sep 29, 2013 12:10:35   #
Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada
 
rpavich wrote:
In addition to the plastic fantastic 50mm...the Canon EF 35mm f/2 is a stellar lens.

Here is what I'd suggest. (and I know this goes against the grain but I've been down the "faster lens" road to the tune of many thousands of dollars....)

Instead of getting a faster lens, get a speedlight and learn to bounce flash. You will spend less money than a good lens, and you will get better results.

Why?

Because under typical "low light" conditions you are talking about ISO's of 1600, 3200 and up...that makes the quality of the images degrade some.

Not only that, to get the benefit of the large aperture you have to shoot wide open and even the plastic fantastic isn't as sharp as it should be wide open. Also your depth of field will be TINY TINY TINY and you will miss focus and shots because of that....but if you shoot at f/4 to get better DOF then you've negated the reason to use a fast lens in the first place!

If you learn to effectively bounce flash and flag flash, not only do you learn a very valuable skill, but you also get better images because you are creating great light...not settling for what's there.

That's just another point of view, but I think it's a valid one.

Here is a link to a post I put up showing the advantage of this approach

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-93761-1.html


And here is a link to learn to bounce and flag flash:

http://neilvn.com/tangents/the-black-foamie-thing/
In addition to the plastic fantastic 50mm...the Ca... (show quote)


:thumbup:

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Sep 29, 2013 12:12:58   #
Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada
 
rpavich wrote:
Just so everyone on this thread knows (and this isn't a dig at you sarge) you don't have to blind people with a speedlight to use one effectively inside.

If you flag it (put something on it so that it won't shoot forward) and point it up at a 45 angle so that the bounce to the subject is "upper side light" then the light cannot blind anyone; add to that the fact that you are just "supplementing" the available light so that f/4 or f/5.6 or whatever is usable, then the "pop" of light is very small and not hardly noticeable.

You can also put a speedlight up in a corner of the room (or two opposite corners for better coverage) and turn them down so that they are consistent "fill" lights to just get the ambient light level up to a usable level...nobody even realizes that they are going off after a few minutes...

Again..not a dig at you sarge, you are right...deer-in-the-headlight-flash doesn't work.
Just so everyone on this thread knows (and this is... (show quote)


:thumbup:

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Sep 29, 2013 12:22:19   #
AntonioReyna Loc: Los Angeles, California
 
I agree. You want a wider lens if your intention is to shoot people indoors.

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Sep 29, 2013 12:43:20   #
oldtool2 Loc: South Jersey
 
OzTex wrote:
@rpavich : thanks for the suggestions. I totally understand the flash benefits and I have a speedlite with wireless trigger. I'll check out your links as I am still learning how to use the speedlite to full advantage. That said, I do also want a lens that will allow large aperture opening - sometimes precisely for the very limited dof.


Learning to use your flash is always a good idea. As for a lens, I would suggest these two that you might be interested in.

A wide angle:
http://www.adorama.com/CA1740U.html

The 70-200mm lens:
http://www.adorama.com/CA70200AFL.html

Same lens but with IS:
http://www.adorama.com/CA702002ISU.html

They also make an f4.0 version of this lens. The 70-200mm lens is a very common lens that most of us eventually end up with. All of the Canon versions are great lenses.

Jim D

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Sep 29, 2013 12:56:20   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
I suggest the 100mm F2 - GREAT for people and limited DOF. Put a Canon 500D on the front for close up. Cheaper than the Macro lenses.

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Sep 29, 2013 13:44:41   #
tad1937 Loc: Daytona Beach, Fl
 
I have a 50mm, 1.8 Canon prime lens that I have had since I bought my first Canon in 1981 and it does a great job!

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Sep 29, 2013 14:05:39   #
Flipper2012 Loc: Alberta, Canada
 
Most real good portrait photographers say the best lens to use is the 70-200 /2.8 A not in your face type of lens Also good for many other things like sports

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Sep 29, 2013 15:33:14   #
tad1937 Loc: Daytona Beach, Fl
 
Flipper2012 wrote:
Most real good portrait photographers say the best lens to use is the 70-200 /2.8 A not in your face type of lens Also good for many other things like sports


Lot to be said by moving away from your subject, they may feel a bit more comfortable.

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Sep 29, 2013 15:35:27   #
tad1937 Loc: Daytona Beach, Fl
 
oldtool2 wrote:
Learning to use your flash is always a good idea. As for a lens, I would suggest these two that you might be interested in.

A wide angle:
http://www.adorama.com/CA1740U.html

The 70-200mm lens:
http://www.adorama.com/CA70200AFL.html

Same lens but with IS:
http://www.adorama.com/CA702002ISU.html

They also make an f4.0 version of this lens. The 70-200mm lens is a very common lens that most of us eventually end up with. All of the Canon versions are great lenses.

Jim D
Learning to use your flash is always a good idea. ... (show quote)


WOW !! great lens, wonder if they finance them like a car !!

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Sep 29, 2013 18:24:11   #
PhotoBiker Loc: Charleston, SC
 
Rpavich: Thanks for the information you posted about the Speedlite and the links on its usage. I also have a 60d. Is there a specific, reasonably priced speedlite you might recommend for someone new to using lighting other than the camera's flash? Thank you.

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Sep 29, 2013 19:55:35   #
OzTex Loc: Houston
 
Photobiker: I have the Yongnou YN-565 EX speedlite. This is very similar to the Canon 560EX II but much cheaper. It boasts full auto and manual, ETTL, wireless remote compatible with the 60D, vertical and horizontal rotation, and a bunch of other features. I found it fairly easy to set up and use, although I am still learning all the features. The 60D can work with this flash in various ways - when off the hotshoe you can set the camera to use int + ext or ext only. Definitely recommend this flash unit.

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Sep 29, 2013 20:09:54   #
speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho
 
rpavich wrote:
In addition to the plastic fantastic 50mm...the Canon EF 35mm f/2 is a stellar lens.

Here is what I'd suggest. (and I know this goes against the grain but I've been down the "faster lens" road to the tune of many thousands of dollars....)

Instead of getting a faster lens, get a speedlight and learn to bounce flash. You will spend less money than a good lens, and you will get better results.

Why?

Because under typical "low light" conditions you are talking about ISO's of 1600, 3200 and up...that makes the quality of the images degrade some.

Not only that, to get the benefit of the large aperture you have to shoot wide open and even the plastic fantastic isn't as sharp as it should be wide open. Also your depth of field will be TINY TINY TINY and you will miss focus and shots because of that....but if you shoot at f/4 to get better DOF then you've negated the reason to use a fast lens in the first place!

If you learn to effectively bounce flash and flag flash, not only do you learn a very valuable skill, but you also get better images because you are creating great light...not settling for what's there.

That's just another point of view, but I think it's a valid one.

Here is a link to a post I put up showing the advantage of this approach

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-93761-1.html


And here is a link to learn to bounce and flag flash:

http://neilvn.com/tangents/the-black-foamie-thing/
In addition to the plastic fantastic 50mm...the Ca... (show quote)



:thumbup: :thumbup: Very good advice, my thoughts exactly!

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Sep 29, 2013 20:15:39   #
PhotoBiker Loc: Charleston, SC
 
Thanks for the info, OzTex. I looked at the reviews for the speedlite and they weren't that positive. I'll do some more research. The price is right for me, though.

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