I just thought of one other reason; to preset your camera to a particular exposure and leave it there.
Example: I went to the Pitt Zoo, cloudy conditions. I popped the meter 3 times: Once for outdoors in the overcast, once inside the reptile / elephant rooms, and once when it got sunnyish.
I set my camera to manual and never thought about it once until I changed areas...(such as going inside)
Had I used my camera's meter, I'd have had varying exposures based on where the lens was pointed when really...if all the animals are in the same light...then they are the same exposure. And had I tried to do the same trick with the camera's meter I might have gotten close but again...the results would have been specific to the tonal variation within the scene when I checked.
That's another reason.
somerleaze wrote:
Why would you use a handheld light meter like a Sekonic or Weston when using a modern DSLR?
It takes care of the guessing and provides us, the photographers, with valuable information about incident (ambient) and reflected light. This information allows us to set proper exposure [shutter speeds and lens aperture openings].
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_meterhttp://www.bhphotovideo.com/indepth/photography/buying-guides/light-metersBefore you go out and dish big bucks for a Sekonic Light Meter; please check on eBay a Minolta Auto Light Meter 3. I just got me one for $38.95 with Free Shipping.
Nekon has the best explanation. Thank you.
jerryc41 wrote:
It impresses bystanders, and they think you really know what you're doing. :D
since joining this forum, your sense if humor tickles my funny bone... :D, however your knowledge and input on this forum has been educational for me as well!
THNX
:-D
Well... If you are one of those crazy people who occasionally lug around a 20 pound 4x5 cameras a light meters are critical.
I don't believe Nikon makes a 4x5 or I would own one. :lol:
Zebra5 wrote:
Well... If you are one of those crazy people who occasionally lug around a 20 pound 4x5 cameras a light meters are critical.
They measure incident rather than reflected light.
They can be used instead of or with the camera meter to optimize exposure.
I am not expert at all on this, but they are very helpful in some difficult lighting situations. One such example is in the studio with multiple lights. It helps balance the lighting which is important because the sensor sees many f-stops of contrast less than the eye, so in these situations it is essential to balance lighting to get details.
Sekonic has a web site with a lot of videos hawking the product but also showing examples of use.
If you use your histogram you can do well with the exposure. Don't forget that you can use exposure and flash compensation to optimize if you are not shooting in manual.
Brucej67 wrote:
I don't believe Nikon makes a 4x5 or I would own one. :lol:
They make/made lenses for large format cameras, but you proba ly knew that already.
Anyone know if they still do?
How about a 4x5 sensor DSLR, wouldn't that be amazing and it would probably weight 60lb.
GoofyNewfie wrote:
They make lenses for large format cameras, but you proba ly knew that already.
Brucej67 wrote:
How about a 4x5 sensor DSLR, wouldn't that be amazing and it would probably weight 60lb.
The torque from the mirror would be enough to power a car.
Maybe mirroess?
GoofyNewfie wrote:
The torque from the mirror would be enough to power a car.
Maybe mirroess?
Gotta get one of those. Perhaps if it flipped me and i landed on my head do you think it might knock loose the tangled web a little so I could type and think at the same time? ;)
jerryc41 wrote:
It impresses bystanders, and they think you really know what you're doing. :D
Bad advice from the uninformed .
ScottK wrote:
They measure incident rather than reflected light.
They can be used instead of or with the camera meter to optimize exposure.
I am not expert at all on this, but they are very helpful in some difficult lighting situations. One such example is in the studio with multiple lights. It helps balance the lighting which is important because the sensor sees many f-stops of contrast less than the eye, so in these situations it is essential to balance lighting to get details.
Sekonic has a web site with a lot of videos hawking the product but also showing examples of use.
If you use your histogram you can do well with the exposure. Don't forget that you can use exposure and flash compensation to optimize if you are not shooting in manual.
They measure incident rather than reflected light.... (
show quote)
Good reply and there,s more . There are meters that measure incident AND reflectedlightplusstrobe .THEmostrecommended instrument for shooting against the light , even compared to a 1 degree spot meter .
rpavich wrote:
I just thought of one other reason; to preset your camera to a particular exposure and leave it there.
Example: I went to the Pitt Zoo, cloudy conditions. I popped the meter 3 times: Once for outdoors in the overcast, once inside the reptile / elephant rooms, and once when it got sunnyish.
I set my camera to manual and never thought about it once until I changed areas...(such as going inside)
Had I used my camera's meter, I'd have had varying exposures based on where the lens was pointed when really...if all the animals are in the same light...then they are the same exposure. And had I tried to do the same trick with the camera's meter I might have gotten close but again...the results would have been specific to the tonal variation within the scene when I checked.
That's another reason.
I just thought of one other reason; to preset your... (
show quote)
One well explained reason for hand held metering . Thanks .
I think this might have been covered but using a hand held meter gives you many advantages.
It is an incident meter, it is measuring the light falling on the subject not reflecting off of it. I find it to be 100% accurate.
If you are using flash outside as a fill or mainlight you can meter the amount of light hitting the subject with great accuracy. (you need a flash meter version). I have learned to trust my meter more than the preview on the back of the camera.
I very seldom use my in camera reflected light meter. It is designed to analyze an average seen. Try that on snow or a dark background. The hand held meter will be accurate in both situations.
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