Focus question for the experts (Page 6): That actually seems about a stop or two overexposed for that ISO which might influence your perception of the image in the camera's viewfinder.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Greg Brandt wrote:

I was at f5.6 and ISO 100, shutter 1/125

That actually seems about a stop or two overexposed for that ISO which might influence your perception of the image in the camera's viewfinder.

It seems that this thread tends to indicate that what you are seeing in the camera's LCD may not be a reliable indication of focus.

Even with a 4x5 view camera I cannot trust my eyes and eyeglasses to get the focus right. I have to use a loupe.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

selmslie wrote:

That actually seems about a stop or two overexposed for that ISO which might influence your perception of the image in the camera's viewfinder.

It seems that this thread tends to indicate that what you are seeing in the camera's LCD may not be a reliable indication of focus.

Even with a 4x5 view camera I cannot trust my eyes and eyeglasses to get the focus right. I have to use a loupe.

Valid point. Given that the camera should be stationary, you might consider a Hoodman Loupe. It is a 3x loupe with a lanyard for hanging around the neck. You hold it against the LCD to check focus.

Greg Brandt Loc: illinois

LoneRangeFinder wrote:

Valid point. Given that the camera should be stationary, you might consider a Hoodman Loupe. It is a 3x loupe with a lanyard for hanging around the neck. You hold it against the LCD to check focus.

It's not that I can't achieve sharp focus before the picture it taken, it's that the resultant picture isn't as sharp a what I saw before I took the picture. Am I missing how the loupe would help with this?

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Greg Brandt wrote:

It's not that I can't achieve sharp focus before the picture it taken, it's that the resultant picture isn't as sharp a what I saw before I took the picture. Am I missing how the loupe would help with this?

Perhaps. I was only responding to the issue raised by another poster. There are times when I think I achieved critical focus and later learned that I had not. I'll have to research this a little more. You were there; none of us were.

;-)

Greg Brandt Loc: illinois

LoneRangeFinder wrote:

Perhaps. I was only responding to the issue raised by another poster. There are times when I think I achieved critical focus and later learned that I had not. I'll have to research this a little more. You were there; none of us were.

;-)

I still think there is movement in the camera somehow. I wanted to try the "exposure delay" mode last night, but it was to cloudy. I think this will solve that problem if it exists.

fotogk Loc: Tuftonboro, NH

your set up was fine. I shoot the moon plenty in live view and your exposure seems correct what was your f-stop. Shooting the moon usually has the same exposure as shoot on earth in the middle of the day.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

Greg Brandt wrote:

I still think there is movement in the camera somehow. I wanted to try the "exposure delay" mode last night, but it was to cloudy. I think this will solve that problem if it exists.

Some may disagree with me-- but I believe there is mirror vibration unless you use at least 3 sec delay. There would nothing wrong with combining them-- and doing both. I personally don't like Live View. I guess I need to learn to embrace it.

PhotoGator Loc: Florida

mfeveland wrote:

Some more terrible advice on the forum...Beware.

:thumbup: :oops: :mrgreen: :thumbup: :XD:

PhotoGator Loc: Florida

alandg46 wrote:

Any shutter speed above about 1/50 will stop the moon. 1/125 should be fine. Some other factor caused the problem. Slight haze can be a problem and is not necessarily visible in either liveview or the viewfinder. This one is 1/80 and with remote shutter release.
Shot with a Pentax K20D and a 500mm F4.5 Takumar.

Nice shot!

:thumbup:

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

Greg Brandt wrote:

...Am I missing how the loupe would help with this?

It would not help. But as I stated earlier, you can use your autofocus to search for infinity focus and then turn it off.

I also showed earlier why shutter speed (unless the tripod shakes) and movement of the moon is not the problem.

Forget the LCD. Does it also seem blurred after copy it to your computer?

If camera movement is what is messing things up, the pillow/beanbag looks like a better choice than a tripod.

Also, the sunny 16 rule does apply to moon photography, but you may have to overexpose a stop or two to compensate for atmospheric conditions and because you want the moon to appear lighter than middle gray.

piretta

i think because the moon moves enough for the photo to be out of focus like any other objectsetc.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

piretta wrote:

i think because the moon moves enough for the photo to be out of focus like any other objectsetc.

Not at 1/125 shutter duration.

PhotoGator Loc: Florida

Greg Brandt wrote:

This picture isn't bad, I am just trying to figure out why it isn't as sharp as it looks in the monitor before I take the picture.

It looks sharp to me, good image.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Greg Brandt Loc: illinois

LoneRangeFinder wrote:

Some may disagree with me-- but I believe there is mirror vibration unless you use at least 3 sec delay. There would nothing wrong with combining them-- and doing both. I personally don't like Live View. I guess I need to learn to embrace it.

I use live view so that I can enlarge the view and fine tune focus. I 'm not in live view when I take the picture.

LoneRangeFinder Loc: Left field

PhotoGator wrote:

It looks sharp to me, good image.

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Yes, but Greg is comparing it to what he saw prior to shooting. It would be interesting to do an experiment with tethering to check perception vs reality. Not saying Greg is wrong....just sayin'....