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Sunflower 300mmL
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Aug 2, 2013 19:26:27   #
geclevel Loc: Springville, Utah
 
I am trying to like my 300mm L f4 lens. I sent it to Canon because the auto-focus mechanism failed. The photos to me are soft. I have the 1.4 extender on for this shot. Shot in manual mode at 1/650, f5.6.
Do I need to send my lens back? Every time I get back from using this lens I am disappointed with the results. Please help me get sharp photos with this lens.



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Aug 2, 2013 19:57:48   #
1stJedi Loc: Southern Orange County
 
Before you start thinking about sending the lens back you need to eliminate ALL sources of vibration that may be impacting your image quality. Specifically, if you aren't using a tripod for a 600mm shot, you need to. If you are on a tripod, you might consider the differences in vibration between an aluminum and a carbon fiber device. Further, even the movement of the mirror and the resultant vibration of it slapping against the foam stop is capable of distorting an image. Do you have the mirror locked up and out of the way? You might also consider increasing your shutter speed, 1/650 for what effectively is a 600mm focal length on a bright sunny day seems a tad slow.

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Aug 2, 2013 20:00:34   #
1stJedi Loc: Southern Orange County
 
If there is no other resolution, and you are truly frustrated with this lens, send it to me . . . I could give it a NICE home -- it would have friends to play with and EVERY thing!

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Aug 3, 2013 13:17:33   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
You need to be on support of some kind - and NOT handholding ! Do you have IS or non IS model ??

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Aug 3, 2013 13:18:20   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
If you are using some sort of protective filter - take it OFF !

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Aug 3, 2013 15:05:34   #
geclevel Loc: Springville, Utah
 
I have the IS model. I did take this photo handheld. I will take some fast action shots or use a tripod for the next round.

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Aug 3, 2013 18:28:38   #
Murray Loc: New Westminster
 
What was ISO?

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Aug 3, 2013 20:02:05   #
geclevel Loc: Springville, Utah
 
I think I had it at 400.

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Aug 4, 2013 04:09:52   #
Camerahand Loc: Huntsville, Tennessee
 
I seem to see a small part of the flower that IS in sharp focus.
Could it be a depth-of-field problem?

Have you tried shooting at f/16 or smaller?

How close were you to the flower?

Burton

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Aug 4, 2013 14:13:04   #
Murray Loc: New Westminster
 
Camerahand wrote:
I seem to see a small part of the flower that IS in sharp focus.
Could it be a depth-of-field problem?

Have you tried shooting at f/16 or smaller?

How close were you to the flower?

Burton


That was my thinking as well.

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Aug 4, 2013 15:01:12   #
geclevel Loc: Springville, Utah
 
Camerahand wrote:
I seem to see a small part of the flower that IS in sharp focus.
Could it be a depth-of-field problem?

Have you tried shooting at f/16 or smaller?

How close were you to the flower?

Burton


I think that was my problem. I was about 40 feet away. Looking at my DOF was .28 feet, .14 in front and .14 behind subject. I will redo testing different f-stops.

Thank you for the input.

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Aug 4, 2013 15:29:26   #
mooseeyes Loc: Sonora, California
 
geclevel wrote:
I think that was my problem. I was about 40 feet away. Looking at my DOF was .28 feet, .14 in front and .14 behind subject. I will redo testing different f-stops.

Thank you for the input.


I don't think that the physics involved here dealing with the optics of a lens results in the depth of field being split equally between front and back. I think you will find the split to be a bit different for each lens, with it generally being 1/3 in front and 2/3 in the rear.

Also, I shoot a full frame Canon 5D MK-II and I have the 70-300mm IS lens (the first one Canon came out with many years ago), and I hand hold this lens all of the time with stunning results using IS and out to 300mm. I also have the 400mm L lens without IS, and this lens also has given to me stunning results; however, I have never attempted to hand hold this lens. It is a tripod only piece of glass.

Good camera holding technique is still required, even with IS, and I do lots of shooting with my 70-300 @ f/11 and f/16 when the light permits and the ISO is set properly.

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Aug 4, 2013 17:31:00   #
geclevel Loc: Springville, Utah
 
Thanks Mooseeyes. I came up with those numbers using an online DOF calculator. I need to practice more with the lens before giving up on it.
A friend wants to trade his 17-55 for my 300m. I think I will give my 300mm a few more chances before I think of a trade.

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Aug 8, 2013 20:08:28   #
geclevel Loc: Springville, Utah
 
I tried again today with the 300mm lens. I adjusted my iso to ensure I can keep the shutter speed above 1/1000 with an f stop in the 5.6-8 range.Overall the pictures turned out sharper than the sunflower. I don't think I will get rid of the lens but I still don't have a use for it, yet.

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Aug 8, 2013 20:27:22   #
1stJedi Loc: Southern Orange County
 
geclevel wrote:
I tried again today with the 300mm lens. I adjusted my iso to ensure I can keep the shutter speed above 1/1000 with an f stop in the 5.6-8 range.Overall the pictures turned out sharper than the sunflower. I don't think I will get rid of the lens but I still don't have a use for it, yet.


That's a real pity . . . All its adoptive brothrrs and sister were already jumping in excitement with the anticipation of a new arrival.

It is a terrific lens and all joking aside I'd be drooling to own one. If you plan to achieve greater Depth of Field, you really will need to be working at f/13 or higher. Inho, f/5.6 still creates a very shallow DOF. In fact, I had similar criosness issues until I began doing the math for hyerfocal lenghts and smaller apetures.

I gather that you have resolved Any potential vibration or stablility issues that nay have had an effect on crispness you are seeking.

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