Pepper Loc: Planet Earth Country USA

Check out this site, it's inexpensive, effective, easy and doesn't require a lot of time or additional equipment.
http://www.reikan.co.uk/focalweb/

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

No problem but just know, that it's just a menu adjustment, you can always change it back to "zero" if you don't like the results.

All you do is to focus on something, check it, change the setting + or - 10, then take another shot...and adjust again.

It's easy and you can't do any camera damage...trust me...

Eaglespotter Loc: SW Michigan

I'm going through a similar experience. I shoot primarily birds. So the eye has to be "sharp" or the photo is trash. Had a D90 w a Sigma 150x500. Upgraded to a D7000 loved it with the 150x500. The New and Improved D7100 is announced. I research it. Looks good (except for the poor buffer size). I buy it. Bring it home - strap on the 150x500 and what the hell - everything is soft. Switch lens to a Nikkor 55x250. A little better but still soft for birding. Played with it for almost two weeks (return policy was two weeks). Set up the tripod with the 150x500 set at f11 @ 450mm (that's the sweet spot) 9same Metadata). D7000 sharp D7100 same setting SOFT - out of focus. Took it back with example photos to the camera store - they gave me a new one (not their problem). Still little change. The D7100 does have a Fine AF adjustment to calibrate lens and I'm in the process of doing that. I have heard that D7100 does have a left sensor problem but I'm using the center sensor and have tried others. I'm getting a little annoyed with trying to make this D7100 work. I shot the D7100 frame after frame then switched to the D7000 body shooting the same exact subject and the D7000 is BETTER. So now I have a new D7100 with 24 out-of-focus Megapixels. I'll keep trying to calibrate the lens and the camera but so far my efforts aren't getting the problem solved. If any one can help resolve this issue it would be greatly appreciated. I would like to get back into the field shooting and away from the test patterns. Thanks everyone. :cry:

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Here is the deal...(aside from any unknown quality issues with that camera) here is what's happening.

Each camera line, and each individual camera within that line has a "manufacturing tolerance" from sensor to lens point of focus.

And just like anything manufacturing by humans...there must be a tolerance, after all...nobody is perfect...there is no such thing.

So camera A (your last camera) has a (let's pretend) - 2 tolerance on the distance from sensor to lens point of focus.


It's close enough that you call it "good" and don't think about it.


You get camera "B" and the manufacturing tolerance on this is +5. (the opposite direction past theoretical "0") and you put the lens on (which has it's own tolerance; we'll call it -1) and when you see the result of +5 and -1 you don't like it...because the result is +4....too blurry.

Both systems and lens are, in reality, just fine, it's just that TOGETHER they don't mix without some adjustment.

Make sense?

One camera isn't "better" than the other...you just have a more favorable set of manufacturing tolerances.


Someone else who's camera is -15 will have a bad time putting that lens on and getting a good result...but their camera is also "theoretically fine."

That's why AF adjust was born.

My Canon's all needed negative adjustment; across the board...and a lot of it, but they all were adjustable and once I adjusted them they were great camera's.

OnDSnap Loc: NE New Jersey

Could send it in to Nikon, let them deal with it if you are sure there is a problem. I was having the same issue with the D7000, played with the micro AF adjustment and now it's fine. As mentioned, it's easy and if you don't like the results, set it back to zero. Then send it in. I do believe your seller will do the same, (unless it's an authorized repair shop) send it to Nikon.

BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD

check out LensAlign
http://michaeltapesdesign.com/lensalign.html

Indrajeet Singh Loc: Goa, India

From reading your post it appears to me that you need to Fine Tune your AF, this is a simple enough operation and you can follow it through the manual or Google it.

I bought one of the first D7100s when released in India, I also use a D7000, D600 and several lenses. Each camera body is AF Fine Tuned to each lens that I own including the 50 1.4 D.

I had some issues with all the bodies I have mentioned concerning sharp images, they were soft before I set the AF Fine Tune, now I have results that I am pleased with.

Every piece of new equipment takes a while to learn well, I bought the new 80~400 G VRII lens almost 3 months ago, I have shot over 6000 images with it and I am still learning its strengths and weaknesses.

Hope this helps.

lourens Loc: Pretoria, South Africa

Hi Jimmix, I had the exact same issue as you are having with back focus when I upgraded from a D60 to the D7000. All sensors above 12mp are more prone to show focus errors in lenses as well as autofocus issues. That is the reason why most of the latest cameras with 12+ mp has a fine tune facility built in. The frustrating part is that it is a sort of an enigma as almost everybody will tell you that you are simply full of sh*t and just cannot take a decent pic :-) The bad news is that the processes being used for testing this and adjusting this all suck in a variety of ways and they are simply not sensitive enough. On all of them you need to make a very difficult assessment with your eyes of exactly what is actually in focus. And after squinting at a number of pics after 20 minutes or so it becomes almost impossible - even for the professionals you are taking the camera/lens to - they do not have anything more special than that available on the web so in the end it is no more than an educated guess. I have found a way around this so if interested give me a shout. I am not sure yet how this site works but I would gladly send you the info on how to do it yourself.

nicoma1963

I also had to do the auto focus fine tune on my D7000. The kit lens was fine but the 70-200mm f2.8 was back focusing. It was a simple adjustment and every time time you attach the lens the camera automatically makes the adjustment.

CTTonymm Loc: Connecticut

To change "in hiding" (if you want to, that is), go to My Profile>General Information and enter your location.

Tony M

jimmix7 Loc: England

Thanks Tony
..I am now out of 'hiding', And thanks for all the helpfull responses,, I so much appreciate them,, I so hope I get this sorted, I really thought I would be shouting off the rooftops "WOW" but up to now I am so frustrated, ,, Thanks again,,,

CTTonymm Loc: Connecticut

BTW, here's a really good primer for AF adjustment from a guy I respect:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/AF-Microadjustment-Tips.aspx

Tony M

BobHartung Loc: Bettendorf, IA

Or front focus. Point is that at portrait distances the depth of field is amazing abbreviated and if the subject moves an inch or two this could easily affect the focus.

Suggest obtaining a focus target and test on that with camera on tripod. Test target will not move. Manual focus and autofocus. This, at least, should tell you if you are going to need to tweak the focus.

jimbrown3 Loc: Naples, FL

If you are using a tripod, check your instructions regarding image stabilization (Canon jargon). Many lenses require that you turn OFF image stabilization when on a tripod. Reason being that the camera assumes you are hand holding and the stabilization is seeking = usually out of focus.

jimmix7 Loc: England

Thanks Jim... IS was turned off,,,,,
and for the testing of the camera I instructed the subject to keep as still as a statue,, I then redid the tests with a static can,,, even using delayed shutter to eliminate vibration, I still find the images very very soft, My 70-300 seems to be giving me best results,, Thanks again for the feedback,,
Jimmy