Snow and Ice photos help.
Dec 24, 2011 16:37:24 #
photocat wrote:
quote=JohnnyRottenNJ For glare you may want to in... (show quote)
And this is where HDR comes to the rescue. You can get a well balanced image in whites and shadows by merging 3 exposures into one.
Michael G
Dec 24, 2011 16:45:42 #
overthemoon
Loc: Wisconsin
Merlin1300 wrote:
Your camera should come with a RAW interpreter to convert to JPG or uncompressed TIFF. With Canon, this is called DPP = Digital Photo Pro and if you've misplaced your camera CD - you can download directly from Canon. I imagine it is similar with Nikon, Sony, Panasonic, etc. For the mainstream cameras (Canon, Nikon, etc), Adobe has 'free' RAW plug-ins for Photoshop and PSE. You shouldn't have to spend any ca$h to start working with your cameras' RAW features.
My Canon 50D has an awesome program and I can convert raw and for the most part this is the only program I need to post process my photos. I am looking to just find a program that can take care of bad skies, neutralize whites and get rid of unwanted objects or people lets say just a little extra tweak(:
Dec 24, 2011 16:47:37 #
Photoshop LE is the standard - or the full blown Photoshop CS5 if you happen to be well heeled - - -
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Doing what you want, though, will take a bit of time in post-processing !!
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Doing what you want, though, will take a bit of time in post-processing !!
Dec 24, 2011 16:51:06 #
WOW! Another email to save. I have lots to learn! This is going to be fun...so much to learn...
What a gorgeous picture! No tripod?
What a gorgeous picture! No tripod?
Dec 24, 2011 16:56:27 #
overthemoon
Loc: Wisconsin
Merlin1300 wrote:
Photoshop LE is the standard - or the full blown Photoshop CS5 if you happen to be well heeled - - -
.
Doing what you want, though, will take a bit of time in post-processing !!
.
Doing what you want, though, will take a bit of time in post-processing !!
I wanted to learn my camera and some techniques first. I am dyslexic and it has taken me about a year to understand my camera and now I am ready for some higher tech post processing I like the photos I have taken and the results I have gotten with the Canon program. I don't want to get into another program that is so over my head that I get discouraged. One step at a time. Learn some basics and build.
Dec 24, 2011 16:58:39 #
No need for a tripod. Day was bright enough so I didn't need one. Standard wisdom is as long as your shutter speed is the reciprocal of your focal length - you should be OK hand held. If you need to speed up the shutter, you can widen your f/ stop (lower number) or INCREASE your ISO number. So - if you're shooting 60mm equivalent (remember the crop factor on digital cameras), you should be OK at 1/60th second or faster. If your lens has IS (image stabilization), you can shoot 1 or 2 stops slower hand held and still be OK.
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For the Rothenburg shot (bottom of Pg 7 in this thread), it was timed based on the building exposure and the +- 3 exposure bracketing ensured I'd catch the bright sky and the shadowed flowers.
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Merlin
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For the Rothenburg shot (bottom of Pg 7 in this thread), it was timed based on the building exposure and the +- 3 exposure bracketing ensured I'd catch the bright sky and the shadowed flowers.
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Merlin
Dec 24, 2011 16:59:41 #
overthemoon wrote:
quote=Merlin1300 Photoshop LE is the standard - o... (show quote)
The software packaged with a Canon is an easier start for most ! I got into Elements 9 when I wanted to do more and was at the limit with the Canon software ! Get to know those programs...you paid for them....then move up !!
Dec 24, 2011 17:04:28 #
Maybe I am misunderstanding this. Just from what I read, I thought there were 3 separate shots...then blend them. Am I correct? That is an amazing photo....
Dec 24, 2011 17:12:25 #
ohwisdom wrote:
Maybe I am misunderstanding this. Just from what I read, I thought there were 3 separate shots...then blend them. Am I correct? That is an amazing photo....
That's how it's done !
Dec 24, 2011 17:27:54 #
Oh - The blending is done by the HDR software - - see my earlier post in this thread - middle of Pg 5
Dec 24, 2011 18:30:48 #
nyweb2001 wrote:
And when you DO get bad snow shots....save them in a folder called "Bad" ! When you do start editing, you can do something else with them....the last one I posted, I applied an IR filter....gave it a whole different look !!
What is an IR filter. I am an beginner and often get confused by all the abbreviations. What does IR stand for? Thanks.
Dec 24, 2011 18:44:09 #
sammytalia7 wrote:
What is an IR filter. I am an beginner and often get confused by all the abbreviations. What does IR stand for? Thanks.
nyweb2001 wrote:
And when you DO get bad snow shots....save them in a folder called "Bad" ! When you do start editing, you can do something else with them....the last one I posted, I applied an IR filter....gave it a whole different look !!
What is an IR filter. I am an beginner and often get confused by all the abbreviations. What does IR stand for? Thanks.
Infra Red.
http://dpfwiw.com/ir.htm
Dec 24, 2011 20:45:04 #
nyweb2001 wrote:
Infra Red.
http://dpfwiw.com/ir.htm
sammytalia7 wrote:
What is an IR filter. I am an beginner and often get confused by all the abbreviations. What does IR stand for? Thanks.
nyweb2001 wrote:
And when you DO get bad snow shots....save them in a folder called "Bad" ! When you do start editing, you can do something else with them....the last one I posted, I applied an IR filter....gave it a whole different look !!
What is an IR filter. I am an beginner and often get confused by all the abbreviations. What does IR stand for? Thanks.
Infra Red.
http://dpfwiw.com/ir.htm
Duhhhh! Infra red...At least I know what the words that the initials stand for mean. Thank goodness...
Appreciate it!
Dec 24, 2011 20:46:13 #
Dec 24, 2011 21:10:59 #
Raw f/10 1/400 640 EOS-1D Mark IV EF 24-70mm f/2.8L
White balance changed to "cloudy", exposeur reduced 1/3 stop, saturation increased, sharpness increased, edges augmented and red green raised in Aperture 3.2.2. Not a good idea to do these things in camera unless many identical shots are anticipated.
When using film in extreme cold, the ISO will get lower and the shutter get slower. These two factors tend to cancel each other but remember that the slow shutter blurs motion.
After warm up from prolonged extreme cold do not take camera/lens immediately back into extreme cold with fog in the lens which can freeze and crack elements. :thumb down:
White balance changed to "cloudy", exposeur reduced 1/3 stop, saturation increased, sharpness increased, edges augmented and red green raised in Aperture 3.2.2. Not a good idea to do these things in camera unless many identical shots are anticipated.
When using film in extreme cold, the ISO will get lower and the shutter get slower. These two factors tend to cancel each other but remember that the slow shutter blurs motion.
After warm up from prolonged extreme cold do not take camera/lens immediately back into extreme cold with fog in the lens which can freeze and crack elements. :thumb down:
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