D200 and star trails
Jun 5, 2013 11:19:16 #
The question is can continual shooting be done with out saving first to the buffer. It seams like the best I can get out of the camera is about 120 photos in one hour.
The equipment: Nikon D200 with a 4 gig card, Tamron 24-70 2.8 lens, shutter lock, Bogen tripod and ac power supply .
The photo info: manual 30 sec. f/2.8 1000 iso.
The camera took shots for one hour or till the buffer was full then stopped and saved the files to the card. It seems to me that taking a photo continually for 30 sec. each. the camera wouldnt need to save to the buffer.
The attached photo is the combination of all that was shot in one hour. The photos were combined using Startrails 1.1
In the manual on page 26 it talks about continual shooting (CL and CH) controls top left, not sure thats what Im looking for. Is there anything in the menu that Im missing?
My problem is I have been diagnosed with Myasthenia Gravis. It started in March and the doctors are still trying to come up with a solution for me.
MG is a autoimmune neuromuscular disease characterized by varying degrees of weakness of the Skeletal (voluntary ) muscles of the body. In my case it the eyes. I can see OK out of each eye with the other closed but the eyes are not talking to each other when both are open, so I see double. And it seams to be in my left eye.
Bummer so I cant fly or drive a car my wife has to take me to work and do my typing as Im the photographer at 2 race tracks and produce a photo like my other attachment. I now have another photographer shoot 2 days out of the 4 for me as I have to be careful when Im walking and climbing the 20 steps to the track. I dont have much depth perception.
As a photographer, its something you dont want to get.
Sorry for the long rent and pity party can anyone help please.
Air Boss 1
The equipment: Nikon D200 with a 4 gig card, Tamron 24-70 2.8 lens, shutter lock, Bogen tripod and ac power supply .
The photo info: manual 30 sec. f/2.8 1000 iso.
The camera took shots for one hour or till the buffer was full then stopped and saved the files to the card. It seems to me that taking a photo continually for 30 sec. each. the camera wouldnt need to save to the buffer.
The attached photo is the combination of all that was shot in one hour. The photos were combined using Startrails 1.1
In the manual on page 26 it talks about continual shooting (CL and CH) controls top left, not sure thats what Im looking for. Is there anything in the menu that Im missing?
My problem is I have been diagnosed with Myasthenia Gravis. It started in March and the doctors are still trying to come up with a solution for me.
MG is a autoimmune neuromuscular disease characterized by varying degrees of weakness of the Skeletal (voluntary ) muscles of the body. In my case it the eyes. I can see OK out of each eye with the other closed but the eyes are not talking to each other when both are open, so I see double. And it seams to be in my left eye.
Bummer so I cant fly or drive a car my wife has to take me to work and do my typing as Im the photographer at 2 race tracks and produce a photo like my other attachment. I now have another photographer shoot 2 days out of the 4 for me as I have to be careful when Im walking and climbing the 20 steps to the track. I dont have much depth perception.
As a photographer, its something you dont want to get.
Sorry for the long rent and pity party can anyone help please.
Air Boss 1
Jun 5, 2013 14:03:21 #
Make sure the noise reduction in camera is turned off, especially if you are shooting 30 second exposures. This just adds time to the processing. Reduce the noise after in PP. Also, purchase a larger card that is faster. The slow standard ones out there are OK for general shooting but when it comes to TLP you really want the data to fly and get out of the camera.
Sorry to hear about the infliction. Hope they find a method to solve it.
Sorry to hear about the infliction. Hope they find a method to solve it.
Jun 5, 2013 14:12:03 #
Also, found the shot pretty bright but I can just make out the star trails. Was your intent to make this a daytime look? Maybe you could lower the ISO to 200 which is just over a 2 stop difference and may help the trails show better and darken down the sky. Not to mention the reduced noise. Just a thought.
Jun 5, 2013 14:41:05 #
big-guy wrote:
Also, found the shot pretty bright but I can just make out the star trails. Was your intent to make this a daytime look? Maybe you could lower the ISO to 200 which is just over a 2 stop difference and may help the trails show better and darken down the sky. Not to mention the reduced noise. Just a thought.
Thanks for the response.
the NR is off, the card is 4 gig sandisk ultra. I know the photo is not the best. trying to work the timing first. and not used to the 2.8 lens.
air boss 1
Jun 5, 2013 16:13:50 #
I would suggest, IMHO, to use 200 ISO and a 15 second exposure. This should keep your sky dark enough to know it's night and still show the trails. Using 1000 ISO just adds noise to the shot. Not just your camera but all regardless of the marketing hype. If you still have a buffer problem place a delay between shots of say 5 seconds. Of course this assumes you have an inter-valometer and aren't using the multi-shot locked cable release method. Good luck. :thumbup:
Jul 7, 2013 08:47:26 #
big-guy wrote:
I would suggest, IMHO, to use 200 ISO and a 15 second exposure. This should keep your sky dark enough to know it's night and still show the trails. Using 1000 ISO just adds noise to the shot. Not just your camera but all regardless of the marketing hype. If you still have a buffer problem place a delay between shots of say 5 seconds. Of course this assumes you have an inter-valometer and aren't using the multi-shot locked cable release method. Good luck. :thumbup:
what is an IMHO? can't use 15 sec, i know that 30 sec is the recommended time for the trails. if there is a 5 sec. delay then the trails have gapes in them and that is no good. yes i'm using the locked cable method, and the camera is set to continuous, one photo for 30 sec continuous. i'm using a nikon d200 and that has a bilt in inter-valometer . that has a limit of 999 shots and i have done that of clouds at the start. now i'm having the same problem. it seams to fill the buffer and after so many shots it just shuts of.
i can't beleive that a even a d200 would take over 30 sec to save a file to the card that the buffer would become full. i just got the fastest card i could get from the camera store after telling them the problem. its got to be a menu setting! i'm just not seeing it.
sorry in the delay i have Myasthenia Gravis and also got real sick for a month about the time i ask the question, which in my case is a muscle in my eye problem. i was seeing double. notice i said was . I just started driving last week for the first time in 3 months and reading was impossible.
now that i'm getting better and its warm out i want to get this resolved.
thanks
air boss 1
Jul 8, 2013 08:40:57 #
Glad to see you back.
IMHO = In My Humble (honest) Opinion
Not sure when 30 seconds became the recommended time for star trails but I guess it depends on who you ask. My times range from 15 seconds to 3 minutes but usually strive for 60 seconds to conserve battery power and keep the sensor heat down. I never know until I'm out there and do a few test shots. It all depends on the light pollution at your location.
If you have a built in inter-valometer then you need to use it and it will give you 15 seconds or any other time value. Forget the cable release method as it is only for use when all other methods are not available.
Adjusting the delay between shots is a trial and error thing. Your camera might work with only a 2 second delay but with today's software most have a built in trail joining (delay bridging) methods that take care of that problem.
IMHO = In My Humble (honest) Opinion
Not sure when 30 seconds became the recommended time for star trails but I guess it depends on who you ask. My times range from 15 seconds to 3 minutes but usually strive for 60 seconds to conserve battery power and keep the sensor heat down. I never know until I'm out there and do a few test shots. It all depends on the light pollution at your location.
If you have a built in inter-valometer then you need to use it and it will give you 15 seconds or any other time value. Forget the cable release method as it is only for use when all other methods are not available.
Adjusting the delay between shots is a trial and error thing. Your camera might work with only a 2 second delay but with today's software most have a built in trail joining (delay bridging) methods that take care of that problem.
Jan 4, 2014 13:36:56 #
Hi Air Boss
This s not related to photography, but to your myasthenia gravis. My dad was recently diagnosed and we as a family are beside ourselves. His doctors have not been overly helpful, and it seems it's simply because they don't know what to do. I'm hoping you don't mind me asking what doctors you see?
This s not related to photography, but to your myasthenia gravis. My dad was recently diagnosed and we as a family are beside ourselves. His doctors have not been overly helpful, and it seems it's simply because they don't know what to do. I'm hoping you don't mind me asking what doctors you see?
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