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Ripples in large framed prints...help!!!
Dec 21, 2011 17:32:04   #
asylum1972 Loc: Hilton Head Island, SC
 
I recently framed two large 24" by 36" prints for my mom and they are seriously rippled throughout the edges and large ripples in the middle of the prints. The lab mailed them in a tube, and I did lay them out to flatten them, so I'm surprised that I'm having this issue. (I've used the same lab for a print double the size and did not have this issue. I don't think it's the quality of paper, but rather something I did).

Is there a spray adhesive I can use to affix to the backing, or another easy way of fixing this? If suggesting the spray adhesive, please be specific on brand and how to use. This will be my first attempt at this.

Thanks!

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Dec 21, 2011 19:47:45   #
modest genius Loc: joshua tree park CA
 
Probably best to have them dry mounted at the framers.
asylum1972 wrote:
I recently framed two large 24" by 36" prints for my mom and they are seriously rippled throughout the edges and large ripples in the middle of the prints. The lab mailed them in a tube, and I did lay them out to flatten them, so I'm surprised that I'm having this issue. (I've used the same lab for a print double the size and did not have this issue. I don't think it's the quality of paper, but rather something I did).

Is there a spray adhesive I can use to affix to the backing, or another easy way of fixing this? If suggesting the spray adhesive, please be specific on brand and how to use. This will be my first attempt at this.

Thanks!
I recently framed two large 24" by 36" p... (show quote)

Reply
Dec 22, 2011 08:17:35   #
NewEnglandPhotoguy Loc: Chelmsford, MA
 
I've run into the same thing on large prints. It's usually caused by humidity (which you can rarely control). To solve the problem, I bought a dry mount press on EBay. It paid for itself the first month I had it. I dry mount everything over 11x14. Takes only a few minutes and is very inexpensive (if you do it yourself).

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Dec 22, 2011 09:37:04   #
rhbender
 
There are several manufacturers of mounting tissue (EG - 3M) that is burnished onto the back of the photo and then you burnish the photo onto "gatorboard" or a like surface. Your print will be secure and the gatorboard will not warp.

No need to invest in a dry mount press.

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Dec 22, 2011 14:30:58   #
llindstrand Loc: Seattle Metro
 
asylum1972 wrote:
I recently framed two large 24" by 36" prints for my mom and they are seriously rippled throughout the edges and large ripples in the middle of the prints. The lab mailed them in a tube, and I did lay them out to flatten them, so I'm surprised that I'm having this issue. (I've used the same lab for a print double the size and did not have this issue. I don't think it's the quality of paper, but rather something I did).

Is there a spray adhesive I can use to affix to the backing, or another easy way of fixing this? If suggesting the spray adhesive, please be specific on brand and how to use. This will be my first attempt at this.

Thanks!
I recently framed two large 24" by 36" p... (show quote)


I had the sam0e problems several years ago. A photographer turned me onto the right product -3M Scotch Positionable Mounting Adhesive #568. Google it and you will find suppliers for it. It comes in rolls about 12" wide so for your large picture you would use two or three strips. It comes with a waxed backer on it so you place one side on the mounting board, rub it down with the enclosed tool and then pull the backer off. That leaves the glue on the backer board--then position on that and rub it down. It is possible to reposition the picture prior to rubbing it down. Watch getting adhesive on your fingers--it doesn't come off easy. I use surgical rubber gloves and throw them away when they get contaminated. Good Luck!

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Dec 22, 2011 15:52:10   #
Roger Salls Loc: Stratford, CT
 
I would not use spray mount! Even the best is temporary. You could take the prints to a local frame shop and have the Dry Mounted, BUT NOT on mount board or Fomecore . Insist on Gator board. Gator is a ridgid type of board, it looks like fomecore on steroids. Very strong, will not warp,or dent, well if abused anything will fail. Should your framer try to talk you out of dry mounting or into fomecore...leave. I'm presuming that if you made the prints that size, you're proud of your work. So don't cheapout now.

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Dec 22, 2011 17:15:53   #
Rick Loomis
 
Amen to R.Sails, any thing larger than 8 x 10 needs to be dry mounted by a framer and preferably on Gator board., otherwise what happened to will happen again.
Rick Loomis
P.S. I prefer black color so the adges show only black, nothing white as it is a distracting color.

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Dec 22, 2011 17:24:54   #
CeeJay Loc: Southeast PA
 
rhbender wrote:
There are several manufacturers of mounting tissue (EG - 3M) that is burnished onto the back of the photo and then you burnish the photo onto "gatorboard" or a like surface. Your print will be secure and the gatorboard will not warp.

No need to invest in a dry mount press.


Is "Gatorboard" a product name? I haven't mounted many pics

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Dec 22, 2011 17:34:11   #
Roger Salls Loc: Stratford, CT
 
Yes Gator Board is a brand name. I do my own mounting and I use Gator. You can get it in varying thicknesses although most places sell or use 3/16. You can also get white, black and brown Kraft.

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Dec 22, 2011 17:38:03   #
Roger Salls Loc: Stratford, CT
 
Another thought Gator comes in about a one inch thickness and if you don't want to frame the images, you could have them mounted on black gator for a floating sensation on the wall.

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Dec 22, 2011 23:31:17   #
Freeaviator Loc: Buffalo,NY
 
try dry-mounting them...humidity is more than likely the culprit....it plays havoc on even "thick" photo paper in a mater of days....also when u mount ur photo in the frame do you paper over the back or just use the back on the frame? If you don't paper over the back then there is a genuine source for moisture(humidity) to enter between the glass and your photo...also did you matte the print or is it merely against the glass? good luck!

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