montanageek Loc: Missoula, Montana

I am in an interesting situation. I have a Canon Rebel XSi with four Canon lenses - the kit 18-55 is f3.5 - 5, a 50mm f1.8, a 70-300 is f 4 - 5.6 and a 28-135 is f3.5 -5.6. I also have a Canon 550 ex II strobe and a cable and flash frame to hold it off camera. By and large they are decent lenses and flash. Certainly not the best, but adequate for my non-professional hobbyist work.

For one of my passions I need about two more stops of light capacity. My wife and I have a 501c3 non-profit foundation, Eleanore's Project, http://www.eleanoresproject.org which does wheelchair clinics for impoverished kids with disabilities in Peru. I am the designated photographer for our expeditions. Last year was the first time that I used my SXi to take photos down there. I want to have an extra stop or two to work with, because our clinics take place in some pretty bad lighting conditions. I shoot in varying conditions - from full sun to pretty dingy fluorescent indoors areas. I shoot both RAW and jpeg. Flash has its down sides - I cannot really set up a "studio area" to work in, and so I get a lot of really strong shadows, even with bouncing it, and using a Stofen bounce diffuser.

There are basically two directions to go - better glass or a new camera body. I can afford about $1000 or so. I was thinking of getting a 60D or a 7D - both of which are available on the Canon Loyalty program. That would give me workable images to about ISO 800, maybe even 1600, which would be a lot better than the ISO 400 that my XSi will give me. I have seen glass - a used 24-70 2.8L - in that same price range. But that would not give me even one full f stop. I like the convenience of a zoom lens for framing my photos of the kids and parents, so I really haven't considered primes. The clinics are really busy, and I shoot a lot - about 150 - 300 shots per day. I have Lightroom 3 and Photoshop Elements 8 to process the images with.

I know that the usual advice is to go for glass. In this instance, I am leaning towards a new camera. What is your advice?

Roger Hicks Loc: Aquitaine

Primes. But if you don't want fast lenses.... Well, yes, a new camera, I suppose.

Cheers,

R.

montanageek Loc: Missoula, Montana

What specific primes would you recommend?

sloscheider Loc: Minnesota

Would a 2.8 lens do the trick for you? There are some Canon zooms for around $1000 (probably a tad bit over) that will give you a constant aperture 2.8 throughout the zoom range.

Woops, never mind - I reread and see that a 2.8 wouldn't do the trick... new body then...

Roger Hicks Loc: Aquitaine

50/1.4 and the fastest wide-angle (24mm or thereabouts) you can afford.

This is the big drawback to crop sensors instead of FF: fast wides are expensive.

Cheers,

R.

tripsy76 Loc: Northshore, MA

On a crop body, another idea could be the Sigma 30mm. It's a great crop prime. Or for around the 400 mark, I've used the Canon 28 f1.8 in virtually no light situations. Maybe one of those and a Fong diffuser?

montanageek Loc: Missoula, Montana

I have thought about the 50/1.4 but that is only two thirds of a stop faster than the 1.8. They come up occasionally on the used market for around $300. I would have to re-learn my use of lenses - not necessarily a bad thing.

montanageek Loc: Missoula, Montana

Is the Fong diffuser all that much superior to the Stofen? I have tried a Fong Light Sphere and it was really nice - unfortunately I don't always have a good ceiling to bounce from when indoors.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

You need more light than a 50mm 1.8 can provide?

I'd learn to bounce that flash and diffuse it...

Getting to 1.2 is expensive to say the least...

Google "the black foamie thing" and try it...it might save you 1000.00.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

If you look at your zoom lenses, you'll notice the aperture changes when zooming. Cameras have trouble focusing in the dark with slower lenses, in my experience. I use Nikon and have both the 17-55 2.8 and the 16-86 35-5.6 vr. In dark situations I always go with the 17-55. It just works better even w/o vr. I'll agree with the other posters though, prime lenses may be your best bet.

tripsy76 Loc: Northshore, MA

I personally use the fong, but I do know many who also use Stofen. I've heard about hot spots that it creates, but can't confirm it. I've never used it. There are plenty of positive examples with either one.

Hando Rei Loc: Long Island New York

Better quality lenses are the way to go ...I think! Anything with all the bells and whistles that one wants is always a matter of budget.Some good used equipment can sometimes be gotten but go to a reputable camera dealer .

bvargas Loc: Palm Harbor, Florida

My suggestion is to try LITEPANELS. This should solve the problem. Go to www.litepanels.com
This is what Hollywood Movie Studios use. It is a constant light source, fits on the cameras hot shoe or light stand and has a dimmer for varying light output. Works on batteries and quite inexpensive, compared to lens replacement. Bvargas

ephraim Imperio

This is what I use to bend light if there are no ceilings or walls to bounce off light. It is known as the Rogue Light Bender.
http://photo-tips-online.com/review/rogue-flashbender-reflector/

ole sarg Loc: south florida

If I get things right you all are suggesting a new flash system which should not cost too much. With the money left over he can go to a body that provides a higher ISO and come out on top in that if need be he can boost ISO and avoid flash.

Whadayathunk?