jwenz
Loc: Northern Wisc.
How do I get a time exposure of a waterfall in daylight to create that particular "whispy-cottony" appearance? with the slower shutter I always seem to have too much light.
FredB
Loc: A little below the Mason-Dixon line.
Look up "Neutral Density Filter". These are dark glass filters you put on the front of a lens to allow MUCH less light in, which in turn allows for a longer shutter speed to get the 'whispy' effect. They come in different densities.
JR1
Loc: Tavistock, Devon, UK
simple, try iso100, f22, 1/10th of a second and if needed as above an ND filter
JR1 is correct Fred. The main thing is to make sure you have a lot of light. dappled if you can get it and try from an angle vertical and horizontal looks more visionary. I attach one I took in Concord a few years ago that best shows the effect at f/20 @ 1/10th sec
IOS 400. Depending on the light and the water flow, try a range of IOS and F stops.
Oct good sun taken at f/20 1/10th ISO 400
jwenz
Loc: Northern Wisc.
thanks to all for your help and comments - however, how do I go about getting a "Neutral Density Filter" for a Canon SX 230 HD camera? Tried to research it and can't seem to find any info on it.
Could not find any filters for the Camera with a google search. buy a small ND filter and jury rig it to the camera lens with gaffer tape
FredB
Loc: A little below the Mason-Dixon line.
jwenz wrote:
thanks to all for your help and comments - however, how do I go about getting a "Neutral Density Filter" for a Canon SX 230 HD camera? Tried to research it and can't seem to find any info on it.
Aha! Had we known what species of camera you are working with, it would have undoubtedly changed our responses. If your camera does not have a lens that accepts screw on filters (as most DLSRs do), another question is just how much flexibility does your camera have? Can you adjust shutter speed?
If you can NOT adjust the shutter speed or other exposure parameters like f/-stop or ISO settings, the ONLY way to get a long enough exposure to achieve the 'silky' look and yet not overexpose, it to stick a really really dark piece of glass in front of your lens. If you can get your camera on a tripod so you don't have to hold both parts, that's a lot easier. Just buy any dark 3- or 4- stop Neutral Density filter of almost any size, and hold in in front of the lens. It won't matter if it wobbles a bit, it's the camera that you want steady. If you can't find an ND filter, do you know any welders? Welder's glass can do in a pinch.
The trick is you are going to need to keep the camera steady while it takes a 1/2 second or so image through a glass, darkly.
Depending on how bright the light reflected off the waterfall, you'll need a neutral density filter. I prefer to use Cokin Filters. It's not a screw onto your lens system, rather it's a holder that easily attaches to the camera. If the situation is extremely bright, you can even insert multiple filters at the same time to accomplish what you need.
JR1 wrote:
simple, try iso100, f22, 1/10th of a second and if needed as above an ND filter
Yep, this works fine as long as there is not to much light around. Best to shoot early in the morning or later in the day - think these times are called the golden hours. I recently bought my first 10 stop filter (good advice given by UHH!) and it gives great results of the type sought here - even in bright sunshine.
steve40
Loc: Asheville/Canton, NC, USA
ND6 filter + Tripod + looooooong exposure. :)
coupe ways.
First tripod, ND filter, I use an ND 4 or an ND8 and or a polarizer. Brighter light, more ND you can use.
Try to keep the aperture in the sweet spot. I prefer f/8-f/16.
Going to f/22 and you risk color shift.
Cloudy, overcast days, early or late light ate great for slow shutter.
I prefer trying a variety of shutter speeds and apertures to get a range of exposures.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-94451-1.html <<Sample
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-111427-1.html
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