Camera lcd problem in bright light with water reflection (Page 2): Thanks Wahawk. First time I have had a problem also; set the lcd brightness to 7 (max), will see if that helps any.

Jimande Loc: Huntsville, Alabama

Thanks Wahawk. First time I have had a problem also; set the lcd brightness to 7 (max), will see if that helps any.

Wahawk wrote:

This issue is the main reason I chose the SX40 when looking for a bridge camera. The LCD is fully articulating and allows me to eliminate glare in nearly all situations, in fact haven't found a time when I couldn't see the LCD without glare.

T2i_Lorne Loc: Surrey BC Canada

Jimande wrote:

I shot some pictures on the Tennessee River yesterday, and the light from the sun and from the water reflection overpowered my lcd readout of the pictures. I could not shade the lcd enough to tell how my pictures were turning out. I have posted the first one I shot with the shooting info which I know was wrong for the shot. How do others overcome this readout problem??

I shoot with a T2i as well. I use the histogram in the LCD to make sure I'm where I need to be, or more accurately - if I need to tweak and reshoot. I may not be able to see the details in the LCD, but the histogram is pretty accurate, generally speaking.

I agree with the assessment above - the reflection most likely threw the metering off. Histogram will help you see this so you can at least retake if needed.

For shots like this I also use spot metering to get closer to where I think the exposure should be metering.

As a last line of defense I shoot in raw so I can bring out details a bit when my exposure is not correct. It can introduce noise to the image if extreme adjustment is required, but it can also save an otherwise wasted shot.

I am still learning and can't say "you must do this ...", but this is how I deal with the same problem.

RixPix Loc: Miami, Florida

Jimande wrote:

I shot some pictures on the Tennessee River yesterday, and the light from the sun and from the water reflection overpowered my lcd readout of the pictures. I could not shade the lcd enough to tell how my pictures were turning out. I have posted the first one I shot with the shooting info which I know was wrong for the shot. How do others overcome this readout problem??

Switch to spot metering and single center focus point on the camera. Bracket the photo 1/3 spot for three exposures. Additionally a circular polarizing filter may be helpful. In these circumstances. An LCD hood is helpful for use outdoors. I use this one on my Canon... http://www.cowboystudio.com/product_p/meike%20lcd%20viewfinder.htm

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

Jimande wrote:

Thanks MT Shooter! I had the exposure set at -1 a full step. Do you think I should have gone even lower? You can obviously tell I don't shoot much water or birds.

-1 is the wrong direction, you needed +1, or close to it. When your image is that underexposed it is very hard to see on an LCD screen no matter what enhancer you may be using.

BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD

I use Hoodman - the loop that hangs from my neck to view what I have done or to see the menu or, the CinemaKit if I'm going to use the live view. I take one or the other with me, not both.

Teacher Loc: Alabama

What MT said. I shoot on Lake Martin (Tallapoosa Cty) a lot and I can tell you the best rule is to go out early in the morning or late in the evening. Also an overcast day is good. In the middle of the day, it is almost impossible to see the LCD screen especially if you wear glasses.

Jimande wrote:

I shot some pictures on the Tennessee River yesterday, and the light from the sun and from the water reflection overpowered my lcd readout of the pictures. I could not shade the lcd enough to tell how my pictures were turning out. I have posted the first one I shot with the shooting info which I know was wrong for the shot. How do others overcome this readout problem??

dickhrm Loc: Spingfield, IL

Not only does that camera have the articulating LCD screen, but you can see all the settings thru the viewfinder. I still regret the disappearing viewfinders these days in the less expensive cameras. I have a point and shoot Canon, with a viewfinder. It is very handy when I don't want to be toting my SX-40. I just hope it doesn't break down, as I know I'd have a hard time replacing it in kind.

Wahawk wrote:

This issue is the main reason I chose the SX40 when looking for a bridge camera. The LCD is fully articulating and allows me to eliminate glare in nearly all situations, in fact haven't found a time when I couldn't see the LCD without glare.

mborn Loc: Massachusetts

NOTLguy wrote:

I would suggest experimenting with the Histogram feature. Thsi should give you a quick "snap shot" of your overall results

learn to use the histogram, tells more about the exposure. learn to expose to the right and with bright water you need to add + compensation not -. also you had dark ducks they also need + compensation

WAL

It should be easier to see the screen information in the viewfinder than the LCD in bright daylight.

The LCD may or may not have an adjustment for brightness. It could be set to high which may be why you are having trouble seeing it in bright light. It is not the best indicator of the actual exposure.

You should learn to look at the histogram. The photo would have shown that it was underexposed. Just learn to look at the right hand side of the histogram and see if it is too far or too little to the right. It can be simple, just get it near the right hand side.

The photo is under exposed for the birds. It is what would be expected from the scene. They are a small part of the photo.

I hate to suggest this, could you be having a problem with cataracts. I am and it can be difficult to see shaded areas when there is bright light present.

bunuweld Loc: Arizona

Jimande wrote:

I shot some pictures on the Tennessee River yesterday, and the light from the sun and from the water reflection overpowered my lcd readout of the pictures. I could not shade the lcd enough to tell how my pictures were turning out. I have posted the first one I shot with the shooting info which I know was wrong for the shot. How do others overcome this readout problem??

Single-spot metering with center focus would certainly have helped to give the the main subject better exposure. . Even with your current result, it would be easy to correct the exposure for the ducks, the turtle and the log either by selecting them with a graphics program or, more simply, by increasing the exposure to the whole photograph in the post-processing, which still would leave the water acceptable while bringing more detail to the main subject. There is enough information in the underexposed objects that will become visible with some post -processing.

Drigby1 Loc: American Fork, UT

I agree with Esther. That is why I stay away from any camera that does not have the put your eye up here viewfinder. Most point and shoots, and even some bridge cameras have abandoned that feature. DSLR's all have it. Choose a camera with the optical viewfinder. They are out there, even when the young teenagers in the stores look at you weird, and say I don't think they make those any more. I have one with an optical viewfinder, the Canon Powershot A1300, to go along with by Canon SX40 Bridge camera which also has one.

IMHO the photo is still not too bad. Kudos to you for asking for help. Just looks like an overcast day. PP can fix some. Cameras do have capacity to change photos by manipulating ISO, white balance, shutter speed, and aperture. If you have the time in any situation, experiment, it will help. Good luck.

steve40 Loc: Asheville/Canton, NC, USA

Welcome to the world of viewfinder-less cameras, otherwise known as "Point and Pray" cameras. My G12 also has an articulating LCD which for the most part cures this problem, but also has a make do optical viewfinder.

Anyway present photo problem solved, one button cure.

dickhrm Loc: Spingfield, IL

Big improvement - so what button was it that was the cure?

>>>Anyway present photo problem solved, one button cure.>>>

steve40 Loc: Asheville/Canton, NC, USA

Well, actually a couple of buttons, one process. :) Photoshop Elements 9, Topaz Adjust 5, button = Dynamic Pop.

dickhrm Loc: Spingfield, IL

Ok, thanks.

steve40 wrote:

Well, actually a couple of buttons, one process. :) Photoshop Elements 9, Topaz Adjust 5, button = Dynamic Pop.