Once in a liftime shot.
qhorse wrote:
how fortunate that you had this opportunity! He is very handsome and considering, I believe you could turn this into quite a lovely "painting", the softness lends itself to this type of editing. I am not skilled enough to comment on your self evaluation but I do love the "glamour" look of this...not sharp enough for "photo" capture but could certainly be used in digital art! Thanks for sharing.
Thank You G for the idea..you are very encouraging. Btw...it did lend itself nicely to a 3 x 4 magnet picture!
You learn every day. Not every image needs to be Pin sharp. You took the photo, and I love it.
Thanks
Hoosier in GA wrote:
Visiting a friend, who is an avid bird watcher, I had the opportunity to shoot this cardinal for over a minute! Sometimes when a great shot presents itself, you are not totally prepared. I believe I zoomed in way to close and if I had it to do over again I would have used f/8. With spot metering, edges appear somewhat fuzzy. Would love others opinions / obversations. BTW...this was shot thru a window!
Shooting through glass presents a number of problems such as diffraction, dust and dirt, and any UV and anti-glare treatments all of which will degrade image quality however on evaluating your image, although those factors may or may not have contributed, it appears that there were two issues with your image's lack of clarity.
You mentioned that if you had more time you would have set f8 rather than f5.6. I assume that your reasoning when you stated "With spot metering, edges appear somewhat fuzzy", was that you were limited in available depth of field due to the large aperture setting. Your thinking would be valid if some of your subject was in focus, but in this case none of the subject is sharp. At risk of offending I suggest that taking into account that you considered this to be a "Once in a lifetime shot" there was a degree of excitement on your part which probably caused you to be a little less methodical in your approach.
And secondly, the histogram of your photo shows that the red channel has quite a degree of clipping (those areas shown in blue).
I have struck this problem with flowers as well, vibrant color with little variance in brightness makes things very difficult for your camera. In this case the shot was about one f stop over exposed but had you set your camera to that degree the overall image would have appeared to be too dark. The thing to do is to set exposure compensation to -1 or so or set the picture control, in the shooting menu I think, with a step or two less saturation then recover appropriately if necessary in post-processing. Cheers !
Thanks to everyone. I love it when I feel like I'm learning from someone not talking above my head. i'm fortunate enough to have a pair of these as regular visitors on the other side of a window so i guess I better put you info to good use. once again thanks all. Oh yes a shot well worth saving.
PRETENDER wrote:
Thanks to everyone. I love it when I feel like I'm learning from someone not talking above my head. i'm fortunate enough to have a pair of these as regular visitors on the other side of a window so i guess I better put you info to good use. once again thanks all. Oh yes a shot well worth saving.
Something I forgot is that 1/30" is rather slow hand held for what is actually a 450mm lens. Camera shake rather than focusing is most likely the reason for your fuzzy shot in this case.
We have a pair of cardinals that make our backyard their home every spring/summer. We have a fir tree in front of our kitchen window and I was lucky enough to have my camera with me when the male stopped there for a few seconds.
I shot this through our kitchen window. It would have been with my 40D (using a 7D now) with the 17-85mm lens.
You do need a great deal of luck to get these.
Cheers
Wayne
The old hand held ROT (Rule of Thumb) for shutter speed and telephoto lens was a "reciprocal".
If your telephoto was 300mm, the proper handheld shutter speed would be 1/300th of a second.
Now, I saw that you used a monopod. However a monopod only steadies the camera on one axis... vertical. So, I am likely to say that a monopod might mean handheld OK at 125th second.
Which is why IS, Tripods, and fast (large aperture) lenses exist.
I am totally amazed you got what you did with the values you used. You must have defied some Laws of Physice... OR... you just plain lucked out!!
By the way, shooting through a window effectively and simply adds one more glass element (A Crappy one at that) to all the money you spend on a good lens. Again, defying the imagination.
I'm going with Luck.
The problem is the color red! How does one get a good replication of red. Be it a bird or a flower it is one of the most difficult colors to shoot.
Any advice?
The problem is the color red! How does one get a good replication of red. Be it a bird or a flower it is one of the most difficult colors to shoot.
Any advice?
rocar7 wrote:
Linda From Maine wrote:
TLCarney wrote:
At 300mm with a 1/30 sec shutter speed it's very hard to get a sharp picture even with image-stablizing lenses. In a pinch, try raising the ISO and reducing shutter speed. You may be risking noise, but capting the sharp details may be more important. Best if you can use a tripod or any very solid support.
TL - Did you mean to say "increase" shutter speed?
I never thought of that before. A shutter speed of 1/60 is shorter than 1/30. So is that an increase or a decrease? At 1/60 the shutter is open for a shorter period, so could be said to be a decrease. Probably easier to stick to "faster" and "slower".
quote=Linda From Maine quote=TLCarney At 300mm w... (
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Think of it this way. If a train is going 30mph and changes to 60mph is it going faster or slower. Is it speed increasing or decreasing?
charles brown wrote:
rocar7 wrote:
Linda From Maine wrote:
TLCarney wrote:
At 300mm with a 1/30 sec shutter speed it's very hard to get a sharp picture even with image-stablizing lenses. In a pinch, try raising the ISO and reducing shutter speed. You may be risking noise, but capting the sharp details may be more important. Best if you can use a tripod or any very solid support.
TL - Did you mean to say "increase" shutter speed?
I never thought of that before. A shutter speed of 1/60 is shorter than 1/30. So is that an increase or a decrease? At 1/60 the shutter is open for a shorter period, so could be said to be a decrease. Probably easier to stick to "faster" and "slower".
quote=Linda From Maine quote=TLCarney At 300mm w... (
show quote)
Think of it this way. If a train is going 30mph and changes to 60mph is it going faster or slower. Is it speed increasing or decreasing?
quote=rocar7 quote=Linda From Maine quote=TLCar... (
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:thumbup: :thumbup: love this explanation! Thanks!
Bret wrote:
Kinda fuzzy....and could have been a few things. What kind of lens are you using? If its wide open at 300mm...plus some glass in the way...that's gonna be a tough shot from the get go. Plus at 1/30 a second not gonna help much either. Toss some bird seeds out there (black sunflower) and they will stick around for more opportunities.
In addition, I would suggest using a circular polarizer as well. This will help to cut glare cause by the glass of the window.
DanFuzz wrote:
rocar7 wrote:
Linda From Maine wrote:
TLCarney wrote:
At 300mm with a 1/30 sec shutter speed it's very hard to get a sharp picture even with image-stablizing lenses. In a pinch, try raising the ISO and reducing shutter speed. You may be risking noise, but capting the sharp details may be more important. Best if you can use a tripod or any very solid support.
TL - Did you mean to say "increase" shutter speed?
I never thought of that before. A shutter speed of 1/60 is shorter than 1/30. So is that an increase or a decrease? At 1/60 the shutter is open for a shorter period, so could be said to be a decrease. Probably easier to stick to "faster" and "slower".
quote=Linda From Maine quote=TLCarney At 300mm w... (
show quote)
I like to look at it this way: 1/60th is indeed open for a shorter period of time...therefore, you increase the speed ;)
quote=rocar7 quote=Linda From Maine quote=TLCar... (
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But the shutter curtains themselves don't move any faster, it's the lag between the first and second curtains that gets shorter, so you could say the timelapse (ie the period the shutter is open for) decreases.
saichiez wrote:
The old hand held ROT (Rule of Thumb) for shutter speed and telephoto lens was a "reciprocal".
If your telephoto was 300mm, the proper handheld shutter speed would be 1/300th of a second.
Now, I saw that you used a monopod. However a monopod only steadies the camera on one axis... vertical. So, I am likely to say that a monopod might mean handheld OK at 125th second.
Which is why IS, Tripods, and fast (large aperture) lenses exist.
I am totally amazed you got what you did with the values you used. You must have defied some Laws of Physice... OR... you just plain lucked out!!
By the way, shooting through a window effectively and simply adds one more glass element (A Crappy one at that) to all the money you spend on a good lens. Again, defying the imagination.
I'm going with Luck.
The old hand held ROT (Rule of Thumb) for shutter ... (
show quote)
Thank you so much for your comments. I did have VR activated that may have helped to some extent. To add to your theory of "luck", the feeder he was on was MOVING at the time!
Hi,
Such a shame, been there, done that. Beautiful bird, is this a bit better. As others are saying you def need a quicker shutter speed when on long lens even if needing to up the ISO and introduce a bit of noise. The latter can be dealt with but blur is much more difficult to alleviate. Keep snapping and enjoy, wish we had thes in England.
By the way, this is my first post here, been lurking in the background for a while gleaning tit bits from the regulars, great site for tips. Hope this works.............. :-P
Red Bird a bit sharper
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