I ran into a known shooter guy in my town at an event. He had his flash on a frame so it was at the same level of the lens and directly to the right of the front of the lens, where his knuckles would be on his right hand when holding the camera... I have never seen this before. I asked him why he claimed "it helps with shadows". I didn't understand becaise he had it pointed strait up with a cap diffuser. My only thought was that it could help reduce the overall footprint of the camera and make it less cumbersome to push through a crowd. but I can't see an advantage putting the flash lower and closer to the front of the lens. I attached the best example I could find although the flash was mounted opposite of the example
kkthanks Bri
A speedlight placed to the left or right of lens will cast a slight shadow on subject, on the opposite side. A speedlight placed directly above lens will cast a shadow directly below subject. For portraiture, a slight shadow below head is nearly imperceptible, whereas a shadow left or right of head is noticeable. This is why a camera hotshoe aligns directly above lens.
BHC
Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA
It looks like a "Rube Goldberg" set-up using a couple of cheap L-brackets. At one time, this was the "cool" way to imitate a Graflex Speed or Crown Graphic with a side attached flash. Kodak made a couple of box cameras, but it was strictly a "gimmick" look. It accomplishes nothing because the flash is still too close to the lens.
I also notice you mentioned the diffuser pointing straight up...A diffuser actually makes the flash uni-directional and the recommended way is to have the flash head tilted at about 45 degrees altho I have seen them used the way you describe.
Bridges
Loc: Memphis, Charleston SC, now Nazareth PA
This setup can be useful. The main thing is that it should be used where no shadows will be produced against a background. By moving the flash slightly left or right it will produce a little shadowing with the diffuser and give a little definition to the shot while a straight on flash often makes the subject look static. Used outdoors the flash can be set opposite the sun (which becomes your main light) and act as a fill. Think of it this way, you don't see studio lights set up directly in front of a subject do you?
This setup will work fine with a short lens, no close surfaces for lens shadow, and no back wall for a blue shadow ridge to form on the opposite side of the subject. It is not much further from the lens then the built-in flash that will find your longer lens or lens shield and produce a cone-of-darkness. Adjustable output flashes on both sides would be interesting for definition control and backlight options.
I like to hold my electronic flash in my left hand, which puts it conveniently at the end of my left arm. From there, I can hold it above the camera, off to the side, aim it up toward the ceiling, or toward a wall. I can us it in portrait or landscape orientation.
It works well, as I generally have the necessary components with me.
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