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Photo Analysis
Getting Perspective in Focus
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Dec 2, 2012 10:59:58   #
Larrie Loc: NE Ohio
 
brianclark4 wrote:
shursts wrote:
Good morning all... I'm really enjoying reading this forum and thought I'd toss my hat, or at least a photo, in the ring for feedback. I'm an avid beginner who only recently ventured into the settings beyond Auto on my camera.

I love architectural detail and while I was out for an afternoon shoot yesterday I came across a new condo that offered some nice perspective. In the photos below I tried to capture this long row of lamps, but I didn't have a lot of success with the focus. They're nearby so it's pretty easy to capture them again, so please let me know what I could do to improve the setup.

The camera is a Canon EOS Rebel XS and I was shooting with a Canon 55 - 250 f / 4-5.6mm IS lens; the information on the back of the pic (thank you iPhoto!) is ISO 200, f / 6.3, 1 / 320.

Thanks... Scott
Good morning all... I'm really enjoying reading th... (show quote)


I agree with seeSAW on the second image, this shot has the foreground in focus, with the focus diminishing and this is what makes it such an interesting shot. In fact that is exactly as our eyes see an object.
quote=shursts Good morning all... I'm really enjo... (show quote)


True, for a millisecond. But then our interest and instantaneous focus travels down the line until we perceive the entire string in focus. The camera still has a tough time equaling the dynamic range of focus and exposure of human sight, and we suck compared to most other animals

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Dec 2, 2012 11:11:39   #
Armadillo Loc: Ventura, CA
 
frangeo wrote:
shursts wrote:
Good morning all... I'm really enjoying reading this forum and thought I'd toss my hat, or at least a photo, in the ring for feedback. I'm an avid beginner who only recently ventured into the settings beyond Auto on my camera.

I love architectural detail and while I was out for an afternoon shoot yesterday I came across a new condo that offered some nice perspective. In the photos below I tried to capture this long row of lamps, but I didn't have a lot of success with the focus. They're nearby so it's pretty easy to capture them again, so please let me know what I could do to improve the setup.

The camera is a Canon EOS Rebel XS and I was shooting with a Canon 55 - 250 f / 4-5.6mm IS lens; the information on the back of the pic (thank you iPhoto!) is ISO 200, f / 6.3, 1 / 320.

Thanks... Scott
Good morning all... I'm really enjoying reading th... (show quote)


Depth of field is a two way street. It means that what you focus on will be in focus from that point towards the camera and from that point away from the camera. ( how much of a depth of field is dependent on the f stop used ) Therefore if you focus on the first lamp your only getting half of your depth of field. If you focus on, say the third lamp then your will have forward and backward depth of field and get more of the lamps in focus.
quote=shursts Good morning all... I'm really enjo... (show quote)


To ad a little more to the creative equation, with a given depth of field we have a range of DOF, and that provides us with Hyper Focal Range (HFR). With HFR we can mechanically change the DOF total range to capture a scene in a more creative scene. We can only change the depth of the DOF by changing the Aperture set on the lens, but we can change where the pin hasp point of focus will occur.

If we take a picket fence with sharp, white points, and set the Aperture and focus on picket point #10, we can visually detect that points #11 -13, and #9 - 7 are also in reasonably sharp focus (acceptable focus). This is the Depth Of Field (DOF) for a given lens and the Aperture set for the lens. We can not adjust the Focus Ring on the lens to shift the central point of focus more toward the camera, or farther away from the camera to create selective HFR or the subject being photographed.

HFR is usually most useful on complex scenes where there may be several attractive points of acceptable focus. Example: A forested scene with a clear mountain lake worth capturing. The lake can be captured with the distant mountains in the background in acceptable focus. Another option is to step backwards a little to include some overhead branches creating a attractive frame around the edges of the lake and mountain scene. The problem occurs when viewing the branches forming the frame, they are badly out of focus and cause a distraction to the view.

Mechanically adjusting the focus ring (Turn off Auto Focus) will change the HFR acceptable focus point and thereby alter the range of acceptable focus. Moving the HFR more toward the camera brings the branches into acceptable focus, while at the same time leaves the distant mountains in acceptable focus. This type of HFR creative adjustments usually requires a large Aperture value (/f16 or greater), much less light passing through the lens to the photo sensor.

In our older film cameras and lens assemblies we had several DOF scales etched onto the barrel of the lens, these scales also included variable DOF and HFR scales to enable us to estimate the HFR for a given focus point, Aperture setting, and focal length of the lens.

Michael G

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Jan 16, 2013 16:10:30   #
jimtidd Loc: Kitchener Ontario Canada
 
DOF was affected by the f stop try 11 to 16. Myself I like a little Blur:)

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Jan 16, 2013 20:43:45   #
docrob Loc: Durango, Colorado
 
shursts wrote:
Good morning all... I'm really enjoying reading this forum and thought I'd toss my hat, or at least a photo, in the ring for feedback. I'm an avid beginner who only recently ventured into the settings beyond Auto on my camera.

I love architectural detail and while I was out for an afternoon shoot yesterday I came across a new condo that offered some nice perspective. In the photos below I tried to capture this long row of lamps, but I didn't have a lot of success with the focus. They're nearby so it's pretty easy to capture them again, so please let me know what I could do to improve the setup.

The camera is a Canon EOS Rebel XS and I was shooting with a Canon 55 - 250 f / 4-5.6mm IS lens; the information on the back of the pic (thank you iPhoto!) is ISO 200, f / 6.3, 1 / 320.

Thanks... Scott
Good morning all... I'm really enjoying reading th... (show quote)


use a wide angle - approach from a more oblique perspective and stop down

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Jan 17, 2013 08:25:36   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
shursts wrote:
Good morning all... I'm really enjoying reading this forum and thought I'd toss my hat, or at least a photo, in the ring for feedback. I'm an avid beginner who only recently ventured into the settings beyond Auto on my camera.

I love architectural detail and while I was out for an afternoon shoot yesterday I came across a new condo that offered some nice perspective. In the photos below I tried to capture this long row of lamps, but I didn't have a lot of success with the focus. They're nearby so it's pretty easy to capture them again, so please let me know what I could do to improve the setup.

The camera is a Canon EOS Rebel XS and I was shooting with a Canon 55 - 250 f / 4-5.6mm IS lens; the information on the back of the pic (thank you iPhoto!) is ISO 200, f / 6.3, 1 / 320.

Thanks... Scott
Good morning all... I'm really enjoying reading th... (show quote)

If you have the patience for it, you can try focus stacking. You take several shots with different areas in focus. Then combine them in PP so that all of those shapr focus areas are in one image. I'm not an expert at it, but I have done it indoors.

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Jan 18, 2013 08:26:42   #
Normanc Loc: Manchester UK
 
Hi Shursts,
A great idea that should solve all your questions about DOF.
If you could re-shoot these images, using a tripod, from the same position you took these. Turn to Aperture Priority and take several exposures at different f stops. Make a note of the apertures you use, then when you later view your images you will see the effect that changing the aperture has on the image.
These are two great images to use for this excercise as they contain a lot of detail disappearing into the distance. Just make sure that you focus on the nearest light and don't change the focus point while you shoot at the different apertures.. Good Luck. Norman

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Jan 19, 2013 23:16:57   #
sfreund Loc: Indianapolis
 
if all the code is challenging a procedure that will keep it simple is: set camera to aperture priority and set the lens to 16 or 22 if you have that available. The meter system in the camera will take care of the rest. You may have to change iso to a larger number 400, 800 or 1600 unless your camera offers auto iso. You are doing the depth of field (dof) that was suggested and is the correct approach but without worrying to learn the other settings that would go along with the f-stop that will provide the greatest depth of field (area in focus).

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Jan 20, 2013 13:12:16   #
acellis Loc: Charleston, SC
 
This was a tough shot. lots of distractions. #2 is the most artistic. The issue is to minimize the tree and the leaf on the left. Use a post processing program to selective blur or minimize that tree. this comment is in the context that you were trying to create more of a fine art shot. Well done

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