Sharp focus of people in front and also at the back
Dec 30, 2012 11:08:16 #
Smaller Aperture (f11-16 or so).
Get a smaller sensor camera, a P&S. they have a natural built in deep depth of field due to optics. DO NOT exceed f8. The tiny opening causes diffraction due to the very small hole openeing.
Wider angle lens. (28mm and less)
Bring the people in front and back closer together - fore and aft if you can.
Darken or brighten the fore and backgrounds. While this does not affect the in focus part, it does help to make them stand out clearer.
Cheers,
Take 5
Get a smaller sensor camera, a P&S. they have a natural built in deep depth of field due to optics. DO NOT exceed f8. The tiny opening causes diffraction due to the very small hole openeing.
Wider angle lens. (28mm and less)
Bring the people in front and back closer together - fore and aft if you can.
Darken or brighten the fore and backgrounds. While this does not affect the in focus part, it does help to make them stand out clearer.
Cheers,
Take 5
Dec 30, 2012 11:17:17 #
The best way to get everyone in focus is to be the same distance from the front row as you are the backrow. The easiest way to do this is by elevating your position. This will also work for your lighting, if your lights are higher the difference in distance is minimized so you don't have light fall off. (Inverse Square law) It will also help head size, so the front row head sizes are not way bigger then the back row.
Dec 30, 2012 11:39:48 #
When using the dof button, you have to learn to "see through" the dark to check the dof that way. As you decrease the size of the aperture, (close down) the view will become darker. The image is there and you have to learn to see through the dark to check for dof. It is a little tricky but it will work for you with practice.
There is also nothing wrong with spending a little time with 'dofmaster.com' and making notes, or a chart, to keep with you, perhaps in a little pocket spiral notebook, about particular lens and how much dof distance you will have at different aperture settings. Then you can measure or estimate your distance and in cases of more distance, you can 'step it off' if critical.
There is also nothing wrong with spending a little time with 'dofmaster.com' and making notes, or a chart, to keep with you, perhaps in a little pocket spiral notebook, about particular lens and how much dof distance you will have at different aperture settings. Then you can measure or estimate your distance and in cases of more distance, you can 'step it off' if critical.
Dec 30, 2012 11:51:55 #
gessman wrote:
When using the dof button, you have to learn to &q... (show quote)
Live View works as well as the DOF button, but does not stop-down the light.
Dec 30, 2012 12:04:19 #
St3v3M wrote:
quote=gessman When using the dof button, you have... (show quote)
If you have 'live view' and if the light isn't too bright to see the lcd.
Dec 30, 2012 12:28:19 #
gessman wrote:
...and if the light isn't too bright to see the lcd.
Take a piece of black construction paper, or similar thickness paper, and cut out a long rectangle then fold it around the lcd screen. It makes a great sunblock in a pinch.
Dec 30, 2012 20:00:06 #
I think 1600 ISO is too excessive and affects the color and contrast of your shot. I would not go more than 800. You should be good at f/11 with a slower shutter speed to get correct exposure. Try it in AV mode with different ISOs.
Dec 30, 2012 20:19:58 #
lighthouse
Loc: No Fixed Abode
shivy wrote:
Looks like I managed to get something right. In AV mode at f/32 1600 ISO the photograph looked good with subjects in front & in the rear in focus. I also tried the CA (Creative Auto) mode. Used the Quick control function and selected the background blur.....sharp option. And this too worked.
Looks like I have the solutions - now I gotta bear them in mind and not lose out to 'senior moments' !!
Thanks a lot.
Shivy
Looks like I have the solutions - now I gotta bear them in mind and not lose out to 'senior moments' !!
Thanks a lot.
Shivy
F/32 and ISO 1600 is not your best option.
That is the path to diffraction and noise.
Punch some numbers into the online depth of field calculator that Trevor suggested so that you get a better feel for it.
Dec 30, 2012 21:17:50 #
SMLucas wrote:
The best way to get everyone in focus is to be the same distance from the front row as you are the backrow. The easiest way to do this is by elevating your position. This will also work for your lighting, if your lights are higher the difference in distance is minimized so you don't have light fall off. (Inverse Square law) It will also help head size, so the front row head sizes are not way bigger then the back row.
Hi SM, seems like no one wants to do the right thing like you and I suggested with the camera elevation and tilt. Everyone is pushing smaller aperture and faster shutter speed. Problem with that is as you addressed: Smaller aperture will not keep heads sized properly. Other problems: higher shutter speed = more noise. Also lenses usually have their highest resolving power around 2 to 3 stops down from wide open -- the farther you move from that, the less resolving power you have. If you are shooting a 2.8 lens, your sharpest images will be made at 5.6 to 8 -- you could stretch to 11 but I would not go beyond that if sharpness is critical. You also included the lights which was a good add. One thing about lights though, they can't be elevated too much or you will get "raccoon" eyes.
Dec 30, 2012 21:23:23 #
Dec 30, 2012 21:24:52 #
Sounds logical. Will try the next time around and revert with what happened. Thanks for taking time out for me. Cheers & Happy New Year - Shivy
Dec 30, 2012 21:26:51 #
Another good suggestion - to learn is to get educated. So I will try the DoF method too. Thanks a lot. shivy
Dec 30, 2012 21:28:03 #
Thanks gemlenz....will attempt different methods and see what happens. Cheers and a very Happy New Year. Shivy
Dec 30, 2012 21:29:54 #
Thanks Take 5.....appreciate your taking the time to respond. Cheers and a very Happy New Year. shivy
Dec 30, 2012 21:30:42 #
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