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FLASH DIFFUSER
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Mar 27, 2024 08:36:18   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
bobmcculloch wrote:
Lumiquest makes a more efficient and professional version of that, works well, I did start out using a white card like that, the model I purchased has a bit of a top so that high ceilings are not a problem.


Which one are you referring to?



The top left examples are not providing much of an increase in the size of the source light so the shadow edges will not be significantly softened. The light is then diffused so it covers a wider area, potentially filling in the shadows from light bounced from things outside the field of view. I should note that my speedlights (Nikon SB800 or SB910) have built in focusing and they interact with the camera to change the area illuminated as you change the focal length. Diffusers will reduce the light on the subject so the flash will have to work harder. Only a problem if you are taking shots at a rapid pace.

These diffusers separate the light source from the camera a bit more, which will reduce redeye effects. But the ceiling is a LOT further away from the camera (usually).

If there is a viable ceiling, that is in my opinion the best thing to use. The only limitation is if the ceiling is not close to white. Strong colors will give you problems with white balance. Pastel colors are probably something you can mitigate in post.

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Mar 27, 2024 08:52:20   #
bobmcculloch Loc: NYC, NY
 
DirtFarmer wrote:
Which one are you referring to?



The top left examples are not providing much of an increase in the size of the source light so the shadow edges will not be significantly softened. The light is then diffused so it covers a wider area, potentially filling in the shadows from light bounced from things outside the field of view. I should note that my speedlights (Nikon SB800 or SB910) have built in focusing and they interact with the camera to change the area illuminated as you change the focal length. Diffusers will reduce the light on the subject so the flash will have to work harder. Only a problem if you are taking shots at a rapid pace.

These diffusers separate the light source from the camera a bit more, which will reduce redeye effects. But the ceiling is a LOT further away from the camera (usually).

If there is a viable ceiling, that is in my opinion the best thing to use. The only limitation is if the ceiling is not close to white. Strong colors will give you problems with white balance. Pastel colors are probably something you can mitigate in post.
Which one are you referring to? br br img https:... (show quote)


I believe mine is the top left, has windows in the top that can be opened to let more light hit the ceiling or closed if desired, IMHO much better than direct flash and you can walkaround and shoot.
BTW I no longer do weddings/events even upon request.

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Mar 27, 2024 09:06:55   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
bobmcculloch wrote:
I believe mine is the top left, has windows in the top that can be opened to let more light hit the ceiling or closed if desired, IMHO much better than direct flash and you can walkaround and shoot.
BTW I no longer do weddings/events even upon request.


Sounds like the flexibility would be useful and throwing some light forward will give catchlights in the eyes when you use it on ceiling bounce. And professional looking is important if you're a professional.

I haven't been the primary at a wedding for about 55 years now. But I take my camera to weddings of friends and family.

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Mar 27, 2024 10:24:35   #
skatz
 
Years (decades) ago I had a "potato masher" flash mounted on the side of the camera. The flash head would revolve 180° leaving the auto sensor facing forward. I made a bracket out of a coat hanger which extended back over my shoulder about 12" and supported a 15" x 24" piece of white foam-core board. The foam-core was scored so 2 flaps could be angled forward creating a curved reflector. It looked stupid but made a huge difference in the softness of the light/shadows because the ratio of the direct flash source area to the reflector area was significant. Not as much as reflecting off a ceiling or wall but quicker, more consistent exposures and color balance, and cheap. Your sheet of card stock reminds me of that - not ideal but for the cost, a great way to improve the light quality of the flash.

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Mar 27, 2024 10:36:01   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
So maybe an assistant carrying a sheet of foamcore behind you? Might look more professional if that's important.

For that matter, they do make foldable reflectors that fold down to a reasonable size but pop up when you need them.

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Mar 27, 2024 16:07:29   #
OldCADuser Loc: Irvine, CA
 
Here's the set-up I used with my DSLR's (and my SLR's before that). Note that the plastic reflector was held-on with Velcro. I've had that Minolta flash unit for better than 20 years, back when my main camera was a Minolta X-700. One of the reasons that I went with Sony when I decided to get a 'professional' digital camera was because some of my Minolta accessories were compatible (Sony bought the camera business from Konica Minolta in 2006), including that nice flash unit, the remote shutter release (I had both a short and long version) and few other things like the right-angle eyepiece, etc. Oh, and my camera strap

Unfortunately, the Minolta flash mount was unique to Minolta and the early Sony DSLR's, and when Sony released their first mirrorless cameras, they opted for the industry standard flash mount and interface. They also switched to a Mini-USB interface for the remote shutter release, so that was the end of the Minolta compatibly.

Flash diffuser mounted on a Minolta flash unit on a Sony A65 DSLR - March 2024 - Sony a6500, 10-18mm
Flash diffuser mounted on a Minolta flash unit on ...

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Mar 27, 2024 16:27:43   #
OldCADuser Loc: Irvine, CA
 
Here's that same set-up with the normal diffuser that came with the flash. Also, you'll notice, that since this unit was from the film era, it included color filters for when shooting B&W film.

Original flash diffuser on the Minolta flash unit, mounted on the Sony A65 DSLR - March 2024 - Sony a6500, 10-18mm
Original flash diffuser on the Minolta flash unit,...

And the extra diffusers, including ones for when shooting B&W film - March 2024 - Sony a6500, 10-18mm
And the extra diffusers, including ones for when s...

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Mar 31, 2024 13:20:25   #
chfrus
 
DirtFarmer wrote:
Probably not.

I went to a wedding a couple decades ago. The ceilings were 30' high so I thought bounce wouldn't work well and I made a diffuser for the speedlight.



Just see how professional it looks!!!!!!!!

It softened the shadows a bit but did not eliminate them. Have used 15' ceiling bounce and it seems to work well.

If it works for you, don't fix it. (But feel free to experiment to see for yourself -- the paper is card stock so it is stiff enough to hold up by itself. Cost is minimal).

I'm not familiar with Canon but modern cameras do high ISO pretty well so even 30 foot ceilings might be OK. High ISO will help the flash by reducing the load and minimizing any heating with frequent shots. Go to the venue and take some test shots to try it out (or just go to an event early).
Probably not. br br I went to a wedding a couple ... (show quote)


I use toilet paper works well.

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Mar 31, 2024 14:44:59   #
BebuLamar
 
imagemeister wrote:
Back in the day of film there were flashes that had TWO outputs - one large main output that swiveled and tilted for bouncing and another smaller fixed output facing forward for fill and catch lights - have not seen one in a long time now - wonder why ??


Mine has it and with the diffuser. Doesn't really work as well as if I have a low enough ceiling to bounce or better yet a wall behind my back to bounce.


(Download)

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Apr 1, 2024 13:53:39   #
Ron SS Loc: Silver Spring, MD
 
DirtFarmer wrote:
Probably not.

I went to a wedding a couple decades ago. The ceilings were 30' high so I thought bounce wouldn't work well and I made a diffuser for the speedlight.



Just see how professional it looks!!!!!!!!

It softened the shadows a bit but did not eliminate them. Have used 15' ceiling bounce and it seems to work well.

If it works for you, don't fix it. (But feel free to experiment to see for yourself -- the paper is card stock so it is stiff enough to hold up by itself. Cost is minimal).

I'm not familiar with Canon but modern cameras do high ISO pretty well so even 30 foot ceilings might be OK. High ISO will help the flash by reducing the load and minimizing any heating with frequent shots. Go to the venue and take some test shots to try it out (or just go to an event early).
Probably not. br br I went to a wedding a couple ... (show quote)


I have used a similar white card rubber banded on my electronic flash (TTL). Key consideration is size of flash bounce or diffuser relative to subject at distance. Larger ratio softens image, less wrinkles showing.
I do note the image shown has flash wide-angle pull-out modifier extended. I advise not doing that and have card (and flash unit) tilted down slightly. Significant if shooting people (small close group).

Alternative: I use a 'Rogue' flash modifier and usually a 'Stroboframe' bracket. The bracket allows me to switch from horizontal to vertical format and keep the flash lighting above camera lens.
The bracket also elevates the flash, greatly reducing red eye, although not for distance shots.

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Apr 1, 2024 23:02:56   #
Spirit Vision Photography Loc: Behind a Camera.
 
Love my Flip-It’s.







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