Chris63 Loc: Central WI

Thanks. I have both so I will try. As for my negatives, which I also have a few: is there software for computers to convert negatives to positives?

rleonetti Loc: Portland, Oregon

DPS Dave.com.
High resolution and cheap.
All on his website.

Johanna Loc: Albuquerque, NM

I have done about 2-3000 slides & negatives so far and perhaps another thousand using a Wolverine. I get very good results with ease!

Chris63 Loc: Central WI

Thanks. Is it, like, "Wolverine photo editing"?

User ID

Hugely unlikely.

User ID

Oops, I failed to put sufficient weight on "if".

User ID

Phones do basic PP: cropping, leveling, WB, saturation, clarity, contrast, brightness, etc.

Below is one phone shot, edited using only built-in editing capabilities of the phone:

(Download)


(Download)

Dalbon

I checked that link you sent and some of those machines have as much 10,000 dpi and I have the Nikon Super Coolscan 9000 film scanner which only goes to 4,000 dpi. Of course the one I saw was only for 35 mm and not 35, 120 and 220 mm which I have in my files. Are those units with such high resolution better than the 9000 that Nikon had out??? I guess technology is really taking over and getting better all the time.
Thanks, David

Ednsb Loc: Santa Barbara

$430????

Paul Moshay Loc: Los Angeles, CA

Chris, I use the Beseler Slide Copy machine with Nikon D800 to copy my slides. I would be happy to digitize them for you, no cost I just need something to do since I sold my studio last year. Get in touch with me at paulmoshay at gmail dot com.

6FootFiveFotog Loc: Escondido CA

I have a Kodak Slide-N-Scan Film and Slide Scanner ($179.99 at B&H) and I have digitized roughly that number of slides at a 22 megapixel resolution and they have come out good enough for my needs though, depending on the quality of the slides, I had to make adjustments to make them viewable and some just could not be redeemed.

delder Loc: Maryland

Handy Android app called lightbox turns your Smartphone into a White lightbox.
Better if you have a spare Smartphone if you are also taking photos of your slides with it.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

The principles are:

> Use a color-accurate light source.
> Diffuse the heck out of the light source.
> Separate the light source from the diffuser by about an inch or so.
> Keep the SLIDE plano-parallel to the sensor in the camera.
> Use a camera with a lens that can provide in-focus, frame-filling (edge to edge) magnification.
> Eliminate all sources of movement or vibration.

I know you want to do it inexpensively, but read this to get an idea of the principles:

Camera Scanning.pdf opens in your favorite PDF reader.
Attached file:
(Download)

OldCADuser Loc: Irvine, CA

Well, I spent the 'hundreds of $$' on a scanner... $999 to be exact, and that was back in 2000 so that was a lot, by today's standard. That being said, it was worth every dime.

I purchased a CanoScan FS4000US, which scans 35mm slides, film strips and APS film cartridges. Since 2000, I've scanned, for my own archives, 4566 35mm slides, 6612 frames of 35mm negatives and 5024 frames of APS negatives. Now that's just my own stuff. Over the years, I've scanned thousands of frames for others, including family and friends.

Now Canon has stopped supporting this scanner years ago, but VueScan makes a general purpose scanner app which covers many types of scanners, including my old CanoScan.

Now the only real problem is that when I first got this scanner, I was using a Mac Tower and so I was able to use it's SCSI interface, which is a parallel interface. It was very fast. Well, today, the default interface is some sort of USB type interface and while the CanoScan did support USB (that's what the 'U' in the name stood for). The problem was that back in 2000 all there was was USB-1. So even though my MacBook M1 Pro support the latest USB-C interface, the speed is limited by the CanoScan hardware. Oh well, it's slow, but it still works just like it did 20+ year ago, so I guess I can't complain about the technology.

Anyway, here's what the scanner looks like, including the film/slide holders and the APS adapter:

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Yes, if you read the white paper I linked earlier in this thread, you will learn all about it.