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Solar Photography, can I do better without breaking the bank
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Feb 6, 2024 13:42:55   #
robertkjr3d Loc: Ann Arbor, MI
 
bwana wrote:
A very decent solar disk. I would, however, suggest you analyze your 30 images and simply select the best one, per below. Stacking all 30 images incorporates the best and worst in the final result.

A dedicated lunar/solar imager would normally shoot 4K or 8K video of the moon or sun (or a very large number of images) and extract the best single frame or maybe stack the best 1% of the frames. This approach helps get rid of atmospheric distortions and motion; known as 'lucky imaging' since, with luck, you'll get a couple frames/images when the atmosphere is stable.

AutoStakkert (v.4) is the freeware software I use to determine the best frames or images in lunar/solar video/imaging sessions. The software does require jpg, png or tiff image format or uncompressed video as the starting point. If shooting video with a DSLR/mirrorless camera this will require preprocessing the video to SER or uncompressed AVI format. I use PIPP for this process (also freeware).

Once the proper format is available simply load it to AutoStakkert and press the Analyse button. When processing is done the best video frame or image will be displayed and you can save it for postprocessing using the Export Current button. Of course, you can also select a number of frames or percentage of frames for stacking if you wish. I normally only use this functionality for planetary imaging.

As for "I have read that I might be able to add something else to the setup to sharpen at least the surface?" I think you're essentially there. A rule of thumb for astro-imaging is 'the final result is 25% data collection, 50% processing and 25% simply luck!'.

Hope this helps.

bwa
A very decent solar disk. I would, however, sugge... (show quote)

I started using AutoStakkert. But I'm not very good at it, as I'm a beginning with all the options. And everybody says to do something slightly different. I keep producing different results with different options. I'm sure when I get better at it, I might figure out how to process what I shot the other day even better.

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Feb 6, 2024 13:53:55   #
robertkjr3d Loc: Ann Arbor, MI
 
JBRIII wrote:
To me your image of the sun is in focus as you do see details around the sunspots.
On second point, you are correct, without spending at least $1000-1200? you won't see more except during a total eclipse. The problem is basically the same as trying to see a candle lit on the edge of a 50,000 watt spot light, the sun is so bright that you just can't see the proms which are always there. The cheapest h-alpha units are small 40mm solar scopes or Quark units sold for your camera by Daystar. The first sells around $800? new, the Quarks are I believe $1200 or $1300. The h-alpha filters for the sun are not the cheaper ones for night photography. The solar ones have bandwidths of 1 angstrom or less compared to several nm for night imaging. Dedicated solar scopes go up from the 40 mm one to 8" costing over $100,000.
To me your image of the sun is in focus as you do ... (show quote)


Yeah i get it. I looked into the Daystar add-on units. One major drawback besides the price was also that they need to plug-in and warm-up. But yes the price is still too much to consider anyway.

In my googling for ideas: One site suggested to couple a uv/IR Cut filter my StarFilter. Another thought to try using a 'Space' 3.5nm filter Baader filter again coupled with the StarFilter (obviously the Baader space filter is way cheaper than the Sun version). But coupled with my other filter, could it actually work? The other issue is that, these other filters would likely be screw on, and would not slip off easily. Might only be for 'Solar-Shooting' and not be good for the 'Eclipse'. So I probably wouldn't invest in the idea.
But I would love to explore the thinking.

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Feb 6, 2024 15:34:30   #
bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
 
robertkjr3d wrote:
Yeah i get it. I looked into the Daystar add-on units. One major drawback besides the price was also that they need to plug-in and warm-up. But yes the price is still too much to consider anyway.

In my googling for ideas: One site suggested to couple a uv/IR Cut filter my StarFilter. Another thought to try using a 'Space' 3.5nm filter Baader filter again coupled with the StarFilter (obviously the Baader space filter is way cheaper than the Sun version). But coupled with my other filter, could it actually work? The other issue is that, these other filters would likely be screw on, and would not slip off easily. Might only be for 'Solar-Shooting' and not be good for the 'Eclipse'. So I probably wouldn't invest in the idea.
But I would love to explore the thinking.
Yeah i get it. I looked into the Daystar add-on u... (show quote)

If the 'Space' 3.5nm filter Baader filter being referred to is the Ha 3.5nm filter it would work best with a modded (full spectrum) camera. A standard camera's Bayer filter doesn't pass very much light in the Ha spectrum, i.e.: really long exposures required.

bwa



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Feb 6, 2024 16:58:04   #
joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA
 
bwana wrote:
It's a prominence off the side of the solar disk and only visible in the hydrogen alpha spectrum; requires a Ha Solar scope. A couple of examples of 'proms' below.

bwa


Informatively beautiful

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Feb 6, 2024 17:18:40   #
bwana Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
 
joecichjr wrote:
Informatively beautiful

The sun can be both beautiful and destructive but we wouldn't be here without it and simply have to live with what it throws at us...

bwa

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Feb 7, 2024 08:21:18   #
alberio Loc: Casa Grande AZ
 
robertkjr3d wrote:
I have recently shot the moon.
I have recently shot the Sun. But my Sun shots I was not as happy with.
I guess I expected to see Proms and all, and I didn't learn till later that you can't do that unless you have much more expensive equipment.

I have a Tamron 150-600mm with 1.4ex. So 840mm. Then I have a MrStarGuy Adjustable Solar Filter that I slip on the front of the lens hood. This is for ease to take off during the 'Solar Eclipse' in 2024.

I have read that I might be able to add something else to the setup to sharpen at least the surface? The above sun-shot is a stack of 30images. I'm not about to buy an expensive H-Alpha. I've spent enough already.

Note: The moon was simply a hand-held shot, it was sub-zero wind factor that night, and I wasn't about to grab my tripod. I had the camera on bracketing, but only one image actually came through super sharp. I was just testing, but that was still an amazing shot!

What's the goal? Of course I'm testing the setup to be better at shooting the solar items for April. And maybe what I've done is already enough.
I have recently shot the moon. br I have recently ... (show quote)


Remember that when the sun is in full totality, and you have removed the filter, you might be lucky enough to get a solar flare or two.



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Feb 7, 2024 08:47:03   #
StanMac Loc: Tennessee
 
Why do we photogs want to go to all the trouble and expense to take our own portrait of the sun, or even the moon, when there are already thousands of such photos that can be seen in all kinds of media? Just asking . . .

Stan

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Feb 7, 2024 09:09:17   #
springlake
 
Solar prominences are visible without special filtration during totality. Since we are at or near solar maximum, I'm hoping for impressive prominences during April's eclipse. They weren't great in 2017 (much better during the 1979 eclipse).

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Feb 7, 2024 09:11:49   #
alberio Loc: Casa Grande AZ
 
StanMac wrote:
Why do we photogs want to go to all the trouble and expense to take our own portrait of the sun, or even the moon, when there are already thousands of such photos that can be seen in all kinds of media? Just asking . . .

Stan


Probably the same reason people take pics of The Eifle Tower, The Grand Canyon, Mt Everest...

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Feb 7, 2024 09:23:20   #
robertkjr3d Loc: Ann Arbor, MI
 
StanMac wrote:
Why do we photogs want to go to all the trouble and expense to take our own portrait of the sun, or even the moon, when there are already thousands of such photos that can be seen in all kinds of media? Just asking . . .

Stan

Isn't that like asking? Why do you go to all the trouble of photographing a 'Whale'/'Flower', when there are so many of such. For that matter, why are we all still in this business? Or maybe even asking Why do you go to the trouble of building your own "desktop computer", "House", "...you name item"... when you could buy one? One because it is "yours". You own it, and you had some part in creating it. You have some chance in creating something "cool".

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Feb 7, 2024 09:31:22   #
StanMac Loc: Tennessee
 
robertkjr3d wrote:
Isn't that like asking? Why do you go to all the trouble of photographing a 'Whale'/'Flower', when there are so many of such. For that matter, why are we all still in this business? Or maybe even asking Why do you go to the trouble of building your own "desktop computer", "House", "...you name item"... when you could buy one? One because it is "yours". You own it, and you had some part in creating it. You have some chance in creating something "cool".
Isn't that like asking? Why do you go to all the t... (show quote)


I asked because I feel I’m going through a sort of existential crisis, so to speak, in my photography. I’m uninspired, lacking in creative thinking, imagination, etc. I’m tired of taking photos of things, places, etc. but lack a creative mind that will help me “ make” an image, something inspired, unique.

Stan

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Feb 7, 2024 09:31:54   #
robertkjr3d Loc: Ann Arbor, MI
 
alberio wrote:
Remember that when the sun is in full totality, and you have removed the filter, you might be lucky enough to get a solar flare or two.


Yes. Question: Polarizer or no Polarizer? Will it do anything?
My Tripod ballhead was great at turning left and right, but not great at up and down. Therefore I probably need to go for a bit more expensive. Any recommendations there? For the 3/8th end of my tripod to hold a heavy camera.

I processed my photo above again, I got this: There is quite a bit of surface details...


(Download)

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Feb 7, 2024 09:33:07   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
robertkjr3d wrote:
Isn't that like asking? Why do you go to all the trouble of photographing a 'Whale'/'Flower', when there are so many of such. For that matter, why are we all still in this business? Or maybe even asking Why do you go to the trouble of building your own "desktop computer", "House", "...you name item"... when you could buy one? One because it is "yours". You own it, and you had some part in creating it. You have some chance in creating something "cool".
Isn't that like asking? Why do you go to all the t... (show quote)



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Feb 7, 2024 09:42:42   #
JBRIII
 
A filter for seeing Proms has less than a 1 Angstrom bandwidth that's .1 nm, so space filters are way to broad, even the best.
While it is true that non-modified cameras cut out most of the H-alpha, there's more than enough to capture Proms during a total eclipse, getting a good focus on the sun can be surprising difficult, but not getting enough light. Filters for space are another issue as the H-alpha is much weaker so modified cameras are used, see Canon Ra. Even there more is cut out than on a modified camera. The reason for all this is that camera sensors are much more sensitive to red (can see out to 1100 nm) than the human eye and without the filter (called hot filter) everything comes out pinkish. The Ra and former 60Da and 20Da warm you and say use a UV/\IR cut filter for regular photography. I only had a 60Da and it seemed fine as was, can't speak for others or the Nikon astro camera which I knows has a strong warning on this subject.

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Feb 7, 2024 09:55:22   #
alberio Loc: Casa Grande AZ
 
robertkjr3d wrote:
Yes. Question: Polarizer or no Polarizer? Will it do anything?
My Tripod ballhead was great at turning left and right, but not great at up and down. Therefore I probably need to go for a bit more expensive. Any recommendations there? For the 3/8th end of my tripod to hold a heavy camera.

I processed my photo above again, I got this: There is quite a bit of surface details...


I wouldn't think a polarizer would add much. What you have in detail is more than I've achieved with just a Thousand Oaks filter. I would keep it as simple as I can.

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