My first photo was grossly over exposed ISO 640 f6.3 1/40th , That why there was a halo around the sun. I will keep that mistake in mind if I want a more "Artsy" shot.
These two shots were at #1: ISO 64 f9 1/40th #2: same ISO & f 1/100th
bwana
Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
Howard5252 wrote:
My first photo was grossly over exposed ISO 640 f6.3 1/40th , That why there was a halo around the sun. I will keep that mistake in mind if I want a more "Artsy" shot.
These two shots were at #1: ISO 64 f9 1/40th #2: same ISO & f 1/100th
What White Light filter did you use? Other info would also be nice to know, i.e.: lens, camera?
bwa
bwana wrote:
What White Light filter did you use? Other info would also be nice to know, i.e.: lens, camera?
bwa
Camera=Nikon Z9 / Lens=Nikon 600mm pf / Solar Filter= 1000 Oaks / Tripod used
bwana
Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
Howard5252 wrote:
Camera=Nikon Z9 / Lens=Nikon 600mm pf / Solar Filter= 1000 Oaks / Tripod used
I hope you don't mind me playing with your solar image? You have excellent image data.
I ran it through Lightroom/Aurora HDR to bring out a bit of hidden surface detail...
bwa
bwana wrote:
I hope you don't mind me playing with your solar image? You have excellent image data.
I ran it through Lightroom/Aurora HDR to bring out a bit of hidden surface detail...
bwa
I don't mind.
I don't have the modern LR. What is the image data ... is it simply details that are there but need some PP to bring out?
bwana
Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
Howard5252 wrote:
I don't mind.
I don't have the modern LR. What is the image data ... is it simply details that are there but need some PP to bring out?
Yup, it is simply details that are there but need some tender loving care to reveal. Your sun image had great focus and exposure but needed some contrast enhancement to dig a bit deeper into the hidden detail.
bwa
I just purchased a solar filter--looking forward to using it.
Howard5252 wrote:
My first photo was grossly over exposed ISO 640 f6.3 1/40th , That why there was a halo around the sun. I will keep that mistake in mind if I want a more "Artsy" shot.
These two shots were at #1: ISO 64 f9 1/40th #2: same ISO & f 1/100th
These shots really didn't thrill me. But, when I looked at your other work ... WOW!
Everyone should take a look.
https://www.photographer52.com/---
Thank you! The check is in the mail.
bwana
Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
Pretty soon he'll be able to add a Solar imaging tab
bwa
Howard, Here is an alternative approach to try. If you have a solar filter, you can get great images of the sun hand-held by kicking up your ISO to over 1000 and taking your images by setting the camera to manual mode then setting your shutter speed to greater than 1/ focal length of lens. So if you have a 600 mm lens, set your shutter speed to 1/800 or 1/1000 or faster, open lens aperture to close to max(depth of field doesn't matter at infinity and essentially a flat surface). If the widest aperture you can get is f5.6, set it at f8.0 and take some images hand-held. You should adjust your conditions so that you get orange to yellow images. Normal Photoshop post processing will bring out great images of sunspots. Your posted images only had two showing. When did you take these images? There has been a lot of sunspot activity lately.
Any noise from the higher ISO will only show up in the dark areas, not on the sun's surface and doesn't impact quality and sharpness of the sunspots.
I get good sharp images of sunspots all the time using this process. These are the same conditions you should be using to take images of the partial eclipses leading up to the total solar eclipse on April 8th.
bwana
Loc: Bergen, Alberta, Canada
Reuss Griffiths wrote:
Howard, Here is an alternative approach to try. If you have a solar filter, you can get great images of the sun hand-held by kicking up your ISO to over 1000 and taking your images by setting the camera to manual mode then setting your shutter speed to greater than 1/ focal length of lens. So if you have a 600 mm lens, set your shutter speed to 1/800 or 1/1000 or faster, open lens aperture to close to max(depth of field doesn't matter at infinity and essentially a flat surface). If the widest aperture you can get is f5.6, set it at f8.0 and take some images hand-held. You should adjust your conditions so that you get orange to yellow images. Normal Photoshop post processing will bring out great images of sunspots. Your posted images only had two showing. When did you take these images? There has been a lot of sunspot activity lately.
Any noise from the higher ISO will only show up in the dark areas, not on the sun's surface and doesn't impact quality and sharpness of the sunspots.
I get good sharp images of sunspots all the time using this process. These are the same conditions you should be using to take images of the partial eclipses leading up to the total solar eclipse on April 8th.
Howard, Here is an alternative approach to try. ... (
show quote)
Actually his images showed four sunspot areas and that is all that were present that day.
bwa
Reuss Griffiths wrote:
Howard, Here is an alternative approach to try. If you have a solar filter, you can get great images of the sun hand-held by kicking up your ISO to over 1000 and taking your images by setting the camera to manual mode then setting your shutter speed to greater than 1/ focal length of lens. So if you have a 600 mm lens, set your shutter speed to 1/800 or 1/1000 or faster, open lens aperture to close to max(depth of field doesn't matter at infinity and essentially a flat surface). If the widest aperture you can get is f5.6, set it at f8.0 and take some images hand-held. You should adjust your conditions so that you get orange to yellow images. Normal Photoshop post processing will bring out great images of sunspots. Your posted images only had two showing. When did you take these images? There has been a lot of sunspot activity lately.
Any noise from the higher ISO will only show up in the dark areas, not on the sun's surface and doesn't impact quality and sharpness of the sunspots.
I get good sharp images of sunspots all the time using this process. These are the same conditions you should be using to take images of the partial eclipses leading up to the total solar eclipse on April 8th.
Howard, Here is an alternative approach to try. ... (
show quote)
Alternative to what? Are you suggesting not to use a tripod?
I will be doing some testing and getting practice - this is a completely new niche for me.
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.