I'm confused about iso
Nov 18, 2023 12:03:29 #
foathog wrote:
I wouldn't worry about it. Film used to have 2 standards. American (ASA) and "European") ISO. You put the film in and you were stuck shooting within the range of its abilities. Although there were some films that you could "push". But if you pushed the whole roll would have to be processed accordingly.
Now you have the ability to put new "film" in on every shot. What could be nicer?? LOL
Now you have the ability to put new "film" in on every shot. What could be nicer?? LOL
If you use a view camera you did have the ability to put new film with every shot. In fact you have to.
The Europian standard was DIN. ISO is the international standard.
Nov 18, 2023 12:29:02 #
Bruce T
Loc: Michigan
So you are relying on a writer?
When I took photography as my study in University, the correct exposure is a triangle of shutter time, lens aperture and film speed(ISO.)
If you use a light meter, all three are used for a correct exposure with a given illuminance of a scene…and the scene lightening will change.
When I took photography as my study in University, the correct exposure is a triangle of shutter time, lens aperture and film speed(ISO.)
If you use a light meter, all three are used for a correct exposure with a given illuminance of a scene…and the scene lightening will change.
Nov 18, 2023 12:31:42 #
BebuLamar wrote:
If you use a view camera you did have the ability to put new film with every shot. In fact you have to.
The Europian standard was DIN. ISO is the international standard.
The Europian standard was DIN. ISO is the international standard.
What percentage of people shoot with a view camera??
Nov 18, 2023 12:40:30 #
DavidM wrote:
Watch some of his other stuff too. He's good
Nov 18, 2023 13:15:32 #
delder
Loc: Maryland
brentrh wrote:
ISO with film was set for film you loaded in your camera you set it and then never needed to change it. Depending on what you were photographing I learned when photographing photographing Rolex 24 race at night changing iso would give you better results but you had to use the change for full roll and hope you guessed right. With digital you have the freedom to change iso and take test shots to achieve results you desire
Yes! Tri-X pushed to 800 for available light.
Nov 18, 2023 14:54:12 #
delder wrote:
Yes! Tri-X pushed to 800 for available light.
Back in the day I pushed Tri-X to 1600 and developed it in Accufine.
Great results!
Nov 18, 2023 15:36:18 #
Longshadow wrote:
Back in the day I pushed Tri-X to 1600 and developed it in Accufine.
Great results!
Back in the day I pushed Tri-X to 1600 and developed it in Accufine.
Great results!
I tried Acufine and it only got Tri-X to ISO 1250. But with Ilford D3200 managed to reach ISO 1600.
But both were too grainy. I could get better results with digital.
Nov 18, 2023 15:45:02 #
selmslie wrote:
I tried Acufine and it only got Tri-X to ISO 1250. But with Ilford D3200 managed to reach ISO 1600.
But both were too grainy. I could get better results with digital.
But both were too grainy. I could get better results with digital.
Wow, I was lucky I suppose.
I was not upset with the grain that was in mine.
Nov 18, 2023 15:51:59 #
Longshadow wrote:
Wow, I was lucky I suppose.
I was not upset with the grain that was in mine.
I was not upset with the grain that was in mine.
I saw that Acufine had been reported to get Tri-X to ISO 1600. That's why I tried it. It certainly came close.
Scanned at 4000ppi the grain was a little annoying, especially since I could see no comparable noise in a 24MP digital image. The scan would have needed some grain reduction before I could make an 8x10 or larger print.
Nov 18, 2023 15:52:41 #
Bruce T
Loc: Michigan
When I was doing film, I found out that I over agitated the film development canister. I changed how I developed the film and then the grain shrunk.
Nov 18, 2023 15:56:32 #
Bruce T wrote:
When I was doing film, I found out that I over agitated the film development canister. I changed how I developed the film and then the grain shrunk.
My agitation was continuous gentle inversions for the first minute and then three more every minute after that - the same for 135 and 120 film and almost the same for sheet film in trays.
Nov 18, 2023 16:10:18 #
Bruce T
Loc: Michigan
After I delayed my agitation, I read Ansel Adams book on film. I then wished that I had read his book earlier.
Nov 18, 2023 18:08:34 #
ELNikkor wrote:
Just glad I don't have to switch bodies and lenses like I was constantly doing when I needed different ISO's on my film assignments, (not to mention mediums of B&W, slide & print!).
just think of having to do the same with ASAs!
Nov 18, 2023 18:30:30 #
Bruce T wrote:
When I was doing film, I found out that I over agitated the film development canister. I changed how I developed the film and then the grain shrunk.
If you want to avoid reticulation, I’ve found it’s important to have all the chemicals including the wash at the same temperature - changes in temperature increase reticulation. I also found that using a hypo clearing agent resulting in shorter wash times reduced reticulation. Regarding agitation, I’ve always followed Kodak’s recommended procedure, but it’s been awhile since I read Adam’s “The Print” or “The Negative”, and I don’t remember his comments on the subject. I have them and will look for his comments.
Nov 18, 2023 23:10:07 #
delder
Loc: Maryland
Bruce T wrote:
So you are relying on a writer?
When I took photography as my study in University, the correct exposure is a triangle of shutter time, lens aperture and film speed(ISO.)
If you use a light meter, all three are used for a correct exposure with a given illuminance of a scene…and the scene lightening will change.
When I took photography as my study in University, the correct exposure is a triangle of shutter time, lens aperture and film speed(ISO.)
If you use a light meter, all three are used for a correct exposure with a given illuminance of a scene…and the scene lightening will change.
Even with te Exposure Triangle, pushing the ISO will give you more exposure options.
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