Filters or not
Nov 8, 2023 00:01:12 #
SalvageDiver wrote:
If you don't have an ND filter handy, you can take a series if images and PP to duplicate the effect of the ND. You can even hand hold during the burst and align in PS. It works.
That takes a pretty long burst. If I’m shooting at 30fps @1/30 sec and I shoot for 2 secs I only have a 2 sec total exposure. Now my OM-1 is great for that stuff. It has up to 6 stops with LiveND, a virtual ND filter or I can use LiveComposite to essentially stack in camera. I set exposure to the scene and start it and it exposes the scene and continues shooting, but only collecting new light. I can watch it build on the back screen or viewfinder and stop it when get what I want.
Nov 8, 2023 03:47:00 #
Longshadow wrote:
If you have the filters, try each one...
See which effect you like more.
See which effect you like more.
That would violate UHH Sacred Tradition.
Nov 8, 2023 03:57:27 #
brentrh wrote:
When I was learning photography with b&w color filters gave excellent results I learned different colors give different results as my skills improved selection of what filters to choose became easier
So your advice is "Dont bother" ?!?
Nov 8, 2023 04:08:14 #
Stan Fayer wrote:
If the broad consensus is to shoot in color and convert later, then why do camera companies build monochrome into the cameras?
UHH "Broad Consensus" does not apply for many users outside of UHH. Therefor camera makers build in the monochrome option.
Nov 8, 2023 05:28:31 #
Are you aware there are excellent b&w editors? I use Topaz B&W Effects II.
Like the majority here I also shoot in RAW. If I am shooting for dramatic clouds I use the polarizer and it is very easy to simulate the red filter in post with the Topaz software.
Like the majority here I also shoot in RAW. If I am shooting for dramatic clouds I use the polarizer and it is very easy to simulate the red filter in post with the Topaz software.
Nov 8, 2023 06:39:47 #
CHG_CANON wrote:
I still use ND filters for really long exposures and (very occasionally) to let me use wide / widest apertures in very bright light. Two situations controlled at the camera level, not in post.
Nov 8, 2023 07:06:22 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
Stan Fayer wrote:
Shooting with my lumix 4/3 in monochrome is it best , or not , to shoot with a red filter, polorizing filter, to increase contrast or just do it post production
RAW is your best friend. Easily fixed in post. Really easy!!!!
Nov 8, 2023 08:12:45 #
Nov 8, 2023 08:27:19 #
Stan Fayer wrote:
Shooting with my lumix 4/3 in monochrome is it best , or not , to shoot with a red filter, polorizing filter, to increase contrast or just do it post production
IMHO, given the editing capabilities we now have, the only filters worth having are ND and polarizing.
Nov 8, 2023 08:30:33 #
fetzler
Loc: North West PA
Stan Fayer wrote:
Shooting with my lumix 4/3 in monochrome is it best , or not , to shoot with a red filter, polorizing filter, to increase contrast or just do it post production
Polarizing filters are very useful in many circumstances. Filters are more flexibly simulated through post processing where anything is possible.
My Oly PEN F is particularly good at this. When shooting jpg +RAW I can have a viewfinder with a BW image and simulate ANY color filter including cyan to simulate orthochromatic film. My EM1 mark III is confined to the usual red, orange, yellow and green filters. In any case post-processing is super easy in most any program. OM workspace is rather good at this task and is free. Investigate the capabilities with your software. The channel mixer is a good option. With post processing you can always change your mind as to which filter is best.
Nov 8, 2023 09:13:13 #
larryepage
Loc: North Texas area
Stan Fayer wrote:
If the broad consensus is to shoot in color and convert later, then why do camera companies build monochrome into the cameras?
Couple of things. First...UHH is not a photography forum. It is a post processing forum. Discussions are therefore almost always biased toward post processing solutions rather than other approaches.
Second, as a post processing forum, its members have a fairly low level of knowledge about camera function and operation beyond resolution, low light capability, and continuous exposure rate. "Expose to the right" and Back Button Focus are just about the only exposure strategies known and recognized, and they are not universal.
Third, photographic skill is measured here mostly technically, not artistically. There is very limited understanding of what makes a truly interesting black and white image, or of the process and technique leading to the most striking result. If this is what you are intending to pursue, this is not the best place to do it.
Nov 8, 2023 09:21:06 #
CHG_Canon wrote
For the people who don't really care about the results and are willing to accept the JPEG output. There's plenty of them.
But, if you shoot raw+jpeg, and have the camera in monochrome mode, it gives you a good visual in the viewfinder of what your tones are going to look like. Then you can use the raw to PP to taste.
For the people who don't really care about the results and are willing to accept the JPEG output. There's plenty of them.
But, if you shoot raw+jpeg, and have the camera in monochrome mode, it gives you a good visual in the viewfinder of what your tones are going to look like. Then you can use the raw to PP to taste.
Nov 8, 2023 09:27:16 #
larryepage wrote:
Check your manual. If you are shooting in Monochrome, your camera may give you the option of applying filter effects electronically. All of my digital cameras provide the option of Yellow, Orange, or Red filters when shooting in Monochrome. The advantage of this approach is that you don't lose the up to 2.5 stops of exposure that comes with the physical red filter.
My Lumix GX7 is set up exactly that way. That way I can see the JPEG right away for the effect - then work the RAW any stinkin' way I wanna'!
Nov 8, 2023 09:32:05 #
MrPhotog wrote:
The manufacturers of strictly monochrome cameras are using the 4 dot color matrix to create a longer tonal range in monochrome, and maybe eke out a bit more sharpness by eliminating the filter layer. They don’t sell a lot of these, but they sell enough to keep making them. And these aren’t cheap.
I believe the actually do not have the Bauer array for color which more or less doubles the resolution; increases the sensitivity by eliminating filter loss and accordingly improves dynamic range. But they do not produce any color data for Pp so the physical filters are again required for the full range of monochrome effects. I wonder if Lightroom/Photoshop even accept them?
Nov 8, 2023 09:48:32 #
Stan Fayer wrote:
Shooting with my lumix 4/3 in monochrome is it best , or not , to shoot with a red filter, polorizing filter, to increase contrast or just do it post production
Color filters? No. Polarizer? YES.
My preferred method of making B&W images is to record them in raw, then convert them from full color to B&W in software. That gives me the most control over the tonality of each color. Simply making a JPEG at the camera, or de-saturating a color image, may not provide the desired mood or effect.
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