Do you lock exposure to your focus point?
Aug 27, 2023 21:27:33 #
larryepage wrote:
Yes...if you learn how to enable that feature. Or ... (show quote)
AMEN !!! My fastest and most reliable reaction to challenging situations is a down and dirty DIY PBG (personal best guess).
Aug 27, 2023 21:37:01 #
User ID wrote:
In using BBF I also remove exposure offa the shutter button. No unhappy sooprizes for me.
Oh, I've no problems with half press of the shutter button, definite detente there.
So I only have two buttons to worry about. Thumb and index finger.
Aug 27, 2023 21:57:21 #
Picture Taker
Loc: Michigan Thumb
Longshadow, I agree and said it several pages back. You don't gave to complicated your life
Aug 28, 2023 00:31:48 #
BebuLamar wrote:
Although with modern mirrorless camera you can pick a focus point at just about anywhere in the frame but I think using the joystick to choose the point is not very fast.
OLED touch screens are a good solution. The one on my GH4 works to move a focus point, even when the OLED panel is dark and I'm using the electronic viewfinder. I can still drag the focus point around the frame with a finger on the screen (which is articulated out to the side while I'm using the EVF).
Aug 28, 2023 02:46:41 #
Mwilliamsphotography
Loc: Royal Oak Michigan & Palm Harbor Florida
I admit to being confused. I haven't used automated exposure control in many years.
With digital capture "you see what you get" in the viewfinder so I set it manually, and you select the place you want to focus on with either a joy-stick or by touch on the LCD screen.
I guess this must be for Dinosaur SLow Reflex (DSLR) cameras.
(Just kidding, I still use a DSLR with optical viewing).
With digital capture "you see what you get" in the viewfinder so I set it manually, and you select the place you want to focus on with either a joy-stick or by touch on the LCD screen.
I guess this must be for Dinosaur SLow Reflex (DSLR) cameras.
(Just kidding, I still use a DSLR with optical viewing).
Aug 28, 2023 08:25:17 #
Mwilliamsphotography wrote:
I admit to being confused. I haven't used automated exposure control in many years.
With digital capture "you see what you get" in the viewfinder so I set it manually, and you select the place you want to focus on with either a joy-stick or by touch on the LCD screen.
I guess this must be for Dinosaur SLow Reflex (DSLR) cameras.
(Just kidding, I still use a DSLR with optical viewing).
With digital capture "you see what you get" in the viewfinder so I set it manually, and you select the place you want to focus on with either a joy-stick or by touch on the LCD screen.
I guess this must be for Dinosaur SLow Reflex (DSLR) cameras.
(Just kidding, I still use a DSLR with optical viewing).
Sorry, I use the camera at eye level ≈98% of the time (2% on a tripod), moving the camera to adjust the focus & metering points. A lot faster for me than using a touch screen for adjustments.
Yea, I'm a dinosaur. Just because the technology exists doesn't mean I need to use it.
Aug 28, 2023 12:44:21 #
Rab-Eye wrote:
I assume that if you do, you always move your focu... (show quote)
I consistently focus on the subject and expose for the overall scene.
Aug 28, 2023 21:28:50 #
My direct answer is No. They are unrelated. And they are both are critical decisions that you can’t leave to the camera automation. Your photograph and you must be responsible. So why the automation?
Autofocus is nearly ubiquitous in contemporary still cameras but you need to tell it what area of the scene you want to be in and kept in kept in focus. With the exception on tracking the eyes of mammals cameras have no clue what you want you want. And in case there are multiple pairs you need to select the eye you want to track. Personally I am not interested in highly dynamic subjects. Landscapes and architectural subject are usually still, save earthquakes. I have purchased Steve Perry’s focusing books but only to enjoy his skill and results. With informal portraits or groups I am happy with selecting a focus point with BBF and hold it as I recompose. And with landscapes I usually focus a some where short of the hyper-focal distance for the lens and f/ stop used. Maybe closer if near detail is important. This is also true for wide angle shots where I prefer a pano with prime lens if motion allows. My camera is a DX camera and I normally carry 50 mm and 35 mm
f/1.8 lenses in my pocket for unplanned wide angle shots.
You might notice I made no mention of exposure in the last paragraph. I usually set exposure by old school system of advancing the exposure to just below loosing detail in highlights and keeping the ISO as low as possible to preserve shadow areas. I just use the camera as a clumsy exposure meter and I routinely use a passport McBeth target which has an 18% gray target which an be employed as an incident light meter. And I also have an 18% Gray cap from the Eastman Museum that can be employed. I found nobody understands what that is about. It is difficult to get a leopard to wear the hat to set exposure.
Autofocus is nearly ubiquitous in contemporary still cameras but you need to tell it what area of the scene you want to be in and kept in kept in focus. With the exception on tracking the eyes of mammals cameras have no clue what you want you want. And in case there are multiple pairs you need to select the eye you want to track. Personally I am not interested in highly dynamic subjects. Landscapes and architectural subject are usually still, save earthquakes. I have purchased Steve Perry’s focusing books but only to enjoy his skill and results. With informal portraits or groups I am happy with selecting a focus point with BBF and hold it as I recompose. And with landscapes I usually focus a some where short of the hyper-focal distance for the lens and f/ stop used. Maybe closer if near detail is important. This is also true for wide angle shots where I prefer a pano with prime lens if motion allows. My camera is a DX camera and I normally carry 50 mm and 35 mm
f/1.8 lenses in my pocket for unplanned wide angle shots.
You might notice I made no mention of exposure in the last paragraph. I usually set exposure by old school system of advancing the exposure to just below loosing detail in highlights and keeping the ISO as low as possible to preserve shadow areas. I just use the camera as a clumsy exposure meter and I routinely use a passport McBeth target which has an 18% gray target which an be employed as an incident light meter. And I also have an 18% Gray cap from the Eastman Museum that can be employed. I found nobody understands what that is about. It is difficult to get a leopard to wear the hat to set exposure.
Aug 28, 2023 22:21:17 #
rehess wrote:
I consistently focus on the subject and expose for the overall scene.
AMEN. Thaz all it takes !!
Oct 25, 2023 15:12:47 #
Longshadow wrote:
I use BBF for focus and lock the <center point> exposure where I want it and recompose.
Once I found out I could use BBF in my camera, I split those functions, never to be re-combine as one function.
Once I found out I could use BBF in my camera, I split those functions, never to be re-combine as one function.
Me too....
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