Northern Lights (Page 2): The issue is not remembering to take it. It's remembering that you have it on. And if you should accidentally shine yours directly into someone's face, don't...

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

Longshadow wrote:

Red doesn't appear to do that (that's why it is used), and it's not a flood light!
Remembering it? Like spare batteries and cards?
Dark out. I'll need the headlight....

The issue is not remembering to take it. It's remembering that you have it on. And if you should accidentally shine yours directly into someone's face, don't expect to get a free pass because the light is red.

wmurnahan Loc: Bloomington IN

Cubanphoto Joined: Apr 29, 2020 Posts: 298

I like it!
I had never done focusing like that, but isn't enough to set the lens to Infinity by using the infinity symbol?

You would think, but no, for starters, the northern lights are not as far away as say the moon and if you have focused on the moon you know it is not at infinity.

Carl S

If you are traveling with a group, you might mention to the group to turn off the display on the camera because it will end up appearing in other's photographs. During the day, focus your lens on infinity, and tape it there with some gaffers tape or making tape. It may be cold when you go out, so let your camera and lens adapt to the temperature to avoid fogging. Some folks used a heat pack on their lens, but I had no problem after letting the camera and lens adapt to the cold. When you are finished, you might want to wrap your camera and lens in a towel so it doesn't fog when you bring it inside. Have a ball, and color me jealous!

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Carl S wrote:

If you are traveling with a group, you might menti... (show quote)

FYI - fogging doesn't usually occur when a warm camera is taken outdoors. Mainly when a cold camera is taken indoors to a warm humid environment. Condensation occurs on a cold surface, not on a warm surface.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

BassmanBruce wrote:

If you can get a faster wide lens do it. br Practi... (show quote)

Question regarding focus.
Would an old fashioned style manual focus lens with a hard stop at infinity be best?
There are many relatively fast manual primes being made now that are wide and fast that seem to be taylor made for such events.
Just a thought.

BassmanBruce Loc: Middle of the Mitten

Architect1776 wrote:

Question regarding focus.
Would an old fashioned style manual focus lens with a hard stop at infinity be best?
Just a thought.

In my experience, no.
I have some minolta primes with a hard stop at infinity and when I tried shooting a midnight waterfall in Yosemite a few years ago the lens (50mm f1.4) hard stop was just short of infinity. All my stars are little fuzz balls!
I sent the lens to Midwest camera repair and it now achieves pin point focus at infinity. I should have ck’d this before I went but was negligent, lesson learned.

osoblancophoto Loc: Venice FL

Cubanphoto wrote:

In a few days we are leaving in search of the Northern Lights in Norway. I have search the internet for tips and found a few.
Now I am asking fellow UHH for tips but more than that, any watch outs, advice to make the hopeful experience a success.
I am taking:
D750 w Tamron 24-70 F2.8
Tripod
Any advice is appreciated. Thank you!

The wider the lens, the better!
I've had great results with the D750 and the 14-24 2.8.
Try to find a foreground reflection in a pond, puddle or something and mid-ground feature.
The attached was with 14-24 2.8 @ 14mm , 2 8, 8 sec, i think.
Shoot in live view, manual focus and zoom in to focus on a bright star. CHECK FOCUS after each shot. Be aware of the rile of 500 and adjust ISO accordingly to get the desired shutter speed. Lock mirror up once you achieve focus. Use a remote release. The D750 has excellent low light properties, so don't be afraid to bump the ISO to 1600, or even up to 2000.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

BassmanBruce wrote:

In my experience, no.
I have some minolta primes with a hard stop at infinity and when I tried shooting a midnight waterfall in Yosemite a few years ago the lens (50mm f1.4) hard stop was just short of infinity. All my stars are little fuzz balls!
I sent the lens to Midwest camera repair and it now achieves pin point focus at infinity. I should have ck’d this before I went but was negligent, lesson learned.

That was because your lens was broken.
I am ONLY referring to lenses that work properly.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Architect1776 wrote:

That was because your lens was broken.
I am ONLY referring to lenses that work properly.

tiphareth51 Loc: Somewhere near North Pole, Alaska

My biggest challenge in aurora photography is focus. Cold also depleates batteries quickly so bring spares and keep them warm. Acclimate your camera to the temperature change both before and after your shoot ...this avoids condensation. A camera jacket is another suggestion to keep the camera warmer than being out in the cold itself. Hand warmers work to keep the camera battery warm while outside. Gloves are important for your hands to avoid frostbite in extreme cold. These are a few suggestions from someone who spent many hours outside shooting aurora. The headlamp is also a great suggestion especially in a group setting. It is not distracting to other photographers. Enjoy your trip.

DougS Loc: Central Arkansas

I second the use of a remote shutter release. Your fingers will freeze if you don't! Use the auto timer too, you can go warm up while it does the work.

JBRIII

Don't know how your going, but if on a cruise ship, they will make announcements if they show up. Best display I saw was when docked. On shore a tripod and shutter control can be handy. You can just hold down the button and count to try different times. I have very interesting photos taken this way when I was just testing things. Visually they were nearly invisible, but got images with red, etc. using tripod and counting to 10 or more. GoPro does well on video.

Finally, they are fickle, so if someone tells you go now, GO!, drop the dinner fork, etc. and go see them. The most spectacular curtain I ever saw was in Iceland, looked, then finished dinner, then setup, but that was it.

Good luck;

Orphoto Loc: Oregon

I use expensive modern fast wide primes for auroras. Unless you verify that a hard stop lies right at infinity...dont trust it. As to taping infinity focus while still daylight....if temperatures change then so does the lens performance. A nice idea, but often a mistake. There is no practical difference between the focal plane of northern lights and the moon. The moon is surprisingly hard to focus on using live view. I would suggest a bright pinpoint star.

Use a relatively shallow aperture, taking into account depth requirements. In general you want high iso, wide open lens and fastest consistent shutter. Yes, a cable/remote release is desirable as are all good usual rechniques.

SteveFranz Loc: Durham, NC

In addition to the other good advice here, I would suggest a remote shutter release. Set your camera on 'B' and hold your shutter open. Start at 30 seconds, then do longer or shorter exposures as needed.

Flyerace Loc: Mt Pleasant, WI

Many of the suggestions are spot on for night photography period.
Make a list of the equipment you will need and keep the list close.
Don't expect to be able to pick stuff up when you get there, you might not have any choices.
Practice tonight in your backyard setting the lens to infinity and changing the ISO, and shooting in the dark.
(it won't take long in your backyard, then you'll understand what they have suggested)
Make sure you have lots of heat packs for your hands, feet and lenses.
Have a wonderful trip. I wish you great luck! Looking forward to some really great photos!