Don, the 2nd son Loc: Crowded Florida

They are and the links have been posted here at times.

kmielen Loc: Eastern NC

So easy to "Google"...
https://www.cameramemoryspeed.com/nikon-coolpix-p1000/recommended-sd-cards/

Alphabravo2020

I wasn't thinking compatibility or recommended. More like long term reliability that is tested and reviewed the way Consumer Report used to do.

BurghByrd Loc: Pittsburgh

Maybe this will help:

https://www.cameramemoryspeed.com/reviews/sd-cards/

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

You need to read your camera manual. Every camera manual I have ever seen will specify the exact cards that are required for each video bit rate, codec, etc.

Use ONLY cards specified for your particular model, and format each one IN THE CAMERA, to be sure it includes the hidden files and folder structures your model needs to function. Exact requirements for 4K will depend on the frame rate, bit rate, bit depth, and codec. Those are listed in that chart in the manual that tells you what cards you need.

By the way, noise is a product of the sensor and processor in your camera, coupled with your ISO choice.

Blur is from using a camera with poor autofocus, mis-set manual focus, or camera shake.

Dropped frames are usually the result of a too-slow computer system. It takes some serious processing power to plow through most 4K footage.

Your shutter speed should be "double the frame rate." In other words, at 30 fps (29.97), your shutter speed should be 1/60. At 24.000 fps or 23.976, it should be 1/48 or 1/50. Faster speeds will make motion look jerky or "clipped." The reason for the slow speed has to do with how our eyes perceive motion. You want a bit of blur of moving objects in each frame, to blend the motion with the blur of the next frame. The result looks far more natural than does recording a tack sharp image in each frame.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

There is a reason B&H is celebrating 50 years in business this year. They don't BS you. Ask them on the phone and they will tell you which brands will work reliably. Bill just listed some of them.

Memory cards aren't like film or analog video tape. They either work or they don't. They cannot add noise, or degrade image quality, unless they are too slow or faulty in some physical way.

Additionally, there is no advantage to using a V90 card if the camera manual tells you a V30 is required. Faster cards are for cameras that record at very high bit rates. cameras can record video to SDXC II cards at 600 Mbps. V30 won't move that much data that quickly.

Recent advanced mirrorless cameras such as the Lumix GH6 can record up to 1.9 Gbps. For that sort of speed, you need a high end CF Express Type B card. Then, of course, you need a kick-a$$ computer with a very fast CF Express Card reader. Most of us don't need that much quality...

fetzler Loc: North West PA

Like others have said RFM.

The new card appears to be a UHS II card with two rows of contacts. A UHS I card has 1 row. In order to get the benefits of UHS II you must have a device that can utilize the second row of pins. UHS II is backward compatible with UHS I but with lower speed. BTW SanDisk cards are very good. SanDisk makes both UHS I and II cards.

awesome14 Loc: UK

Since 1996, Lexar was owned by 40-year-old American memory powerhouse, Micron, which makes the most cutting edge memory products in the world, including a 32 TB NVMe SSD. Micron products offer the highest performance and best reliability, period. Micron is the exclusive choice of NASA and the DoD.

In 2018, Micron sold Lexar to Chinese manufacturer,, Longsys. Lexar has never been the same. It lives on past reputation, but I avoid it, because it is not what it was.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

I had enough trouble with Lexar cards that I gave up and bought SanDisk and Transcend. Those are two good brands. All my cards from them still work.

survivaldealer Loc: NE Utah

I'm glad you clarified a few things for me. I was imagining what would happen if the card could not be written to as fast as the camera sent the data. Does it crash? I thought lost frames or blur might be the reason. When I imported the video into Camtasia, it was jerky and blurry in spots. But when I loaded it on a faster machine, it worked fine. So the card was alright. I still bought a better one UHS-1 as I want not even a hint of trouble. The camera is new as Nikon replaced one I had sent in for repair. I bought a SanDisk Pro Extreme and might get it today. As for the old computer, it's hard disk is nearly full and it has seen better days. Time to go computer shopping.

Leinik Loc: Rochester NY

I am sorry but "dumb" answer. Formatting WILL NOT resolve the problem of card/camera compatibility.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

This is good advice. The only complicating factor is that those of us who keep our cameras for a long time have to learn a little more than what's in the manual, because what is available on the memory card market is continually changing and moving forward. In addition, firmware updates allowed both my D200 (which I shot exclusively for 11 years) and my D300 (which I bought much later) to use significantly larger cards than the ones initially specified in their manuals.

Important changes and updates were also made to my later cameras.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

That is a huge perquisite of digital cameras... When a manufacturer "gets it," and uses firmware updates to push an existing camera model beyond what it was when it shipped. I bought my Lumix nine feature updates ago. They changed so much I had to download a new version of the manual.