TriX wrote:
Good advice. For best low noise performance in a low light/high ISO situation, you want to use all the dynamic range possible by pushing the exposure up as far as you can without blowing highlights (expose to the right) and shoot raw. The worst thing you can do is to underexpose and then push the brightness up in post processing. Use the D750, the fastest lens you have that will provide the FL you need, use just enough shutter speed to freeze the action (like 1/500), set the aperture as wide as you can to get the required DOF and isolate the subject, and let the ISO go as high as you need, even up to 12,800, for the max exposure without blowing the highlights (I use auto ISO). Fix the noise in post with a noise reduction tool such as Topaz Denoise. If you have to lighten the image in post, you’re underexposing, which is the kiss of death. Open that aperture and push up the ISO - the D750 is a very competent high ISO camera and a stop better than the D500 cor this type of shooting.
Good advice. For best low noise performance in a l... (
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The dirty little secret of the histogram display on cameras is that it only displays the histogram of the 8-bit JPEG preview image. Doubters should do an experiment.
> Meter a gray card for correct exposure in full auto mode. WRITE DOWN the ISO, shutter speed, and aperture suggested for the lighting on the scene. Be sure the ISO is high enough to allow at least a one stop adjustment of the aperture in the overexposure direction. (i.e.; if your lens is f/2.8, and the ISO is 6400, the shutter is 1/500, and the lens is at f/5.6 for the gray card autoexposure, you still have room to open the lens by a stop or more.
> Now, set the camera to full manual and enter the ISO, shutter speed, and aperture you tested as correct for the illumination on the scene.
> Set EXPOSURE COMPENSATION for +1 stop. Leave the camera on manual ISO, manual shutter speed, but set auto aperture (this is called shutter-priority auto, the S setting in PASM). This will tend to overexpose the JPEG by a full stop, but IGNORE that fact. Make a few dozen test exposures, saving only raw files. Again, the previews will be blown out, but you aren't interested in the previews.
> Import the images into your computer. If you use Lightroom Classic, select all the imported images and drag the exposure slider one stop to the left. The result should make most of the images look fairly normal. The highlights should return, mid-tones should be correct, and you should still see shadow details.
> Now you can select and tweak individual images one at a time, adjusting exposure, black level, shadows, highlights, white level, and contrast (and all the other parameters you see fit to modify). Of course, you can copy those settings and apply them to other exposures, either individually, in groups, or all at once. The result is less noise and better range.
> If this isn't perfect, try again, with either a higher or lower exposure compensation value. Adjust in 1/3 stop increments.
HINT: For best white balance opportunity in a gym, expose a ColorChecker chart at the start of the game. Gym lighting, especially in older high schools, is awful. You will probably never get rid of all the color cast, or render all the colors on the chart correctly, but you can get "pleasingly close to neutral" color if you have a reference. After initial exposure adjustment, as explained above, use the eye dropper tool on the middle gray patch of the chart to adjust both color temperature and tint automatically. See below. The RGB values should be close to 50% when exposure is correct. See sample below.