Large Group Photo tips? Hey all, I’ve been voluntold to take a couple of group photo’s to be able to present to my boss for his retirement. The largest group could be around 55 people.

RobertH

Hey all,

I’ve been voluntold to take a couple of group photo’s to be able to present to my boss for his retirement. The largest group could be around 55 people. I’m an advanced enthusiast with a Nikon D7500 (crop sensor). Available lenses are a 10-24 wide, 50mm 1.8, and 18-140 kit. (I figure the 28-300 and the 150-600 won’t be much use for this. ).

For location, I’ll have to find someplace suitable in one of the Orlando theme parks, for an AM, outdoor shoot. Any useful suggestions on how to pose and shoot the group would be appreciated.

mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey

RobertH wrote:

Hey all, br br I’ve been voluntold to take a coup... (show quote)

Keep in mind the potential of volume deformation or distortion towards the edges of the frame when capturing a large group with a wide angle lens. You don't want the folks towards the extreme left and right of the image to look like they gained a hundred pounds each for the photograph. You might want to stand far enough back so no one is near the left and right frame edge. You can always crop the photo later. Of course perhaps your lenses don't generate a lot of that type of distortion, but it's very common with very wide angle lenses and your 10-24mm may have it. And don't forget to stop down so everyone's in sharp focus.

Vector

Some time back, someone recommended posing a large group in an arc. This way the distance from the camera to the people doesn't change much. Let me know if this doesm't make sense.

autofocus Loc: North Central Connecticut

If there's a way for you to shoot from an elevated position with you looking down on the group and all their faces looking up at you would be good. This way none of the faces will be hidden ~or~ what about a local school that might have outdoor bleachers, I've never done it that way, but it could work with a large crowd. Of course, watch your DOF, if you're setup is 3-4 rows deep, I think an aperture of between f/8- f/11 should be fine, and maybe focus on a person in the middle of the group and in the second row. As mentioned above, watch the distortion on wide angle lenses. Good luck!

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

autofocus wrote:

If there's a way for you to shoot from an elevated... (show quote)

yssirk123 Loc: New Jersey

I've shot large confirmation classes for a local Catholic church using a step ladder and staggering the rows of seated children which worked out well. The ladder is key along with proper depth of field.

ClarkJohnson Loc: Fort Myers, FL and Cohasset, MA

As autofocus mentioned, shooting from a high vantage point is a real plus. It minimizes as best as possible the distance differential between the folks nearest and farthest from the camera. A ladder would be best, if possible. Good luck!

Jimmy T Loc: Virginia

autofocus wrote:

If there's a way for you to shoot from an elevated... (show quote)

Excellent advice and the only thing that I could add is the following chart previously provided by another UHH Member.
Some other great ideas can be found at: https://www.google.com/search?q=team+posing+chart&hl=en&authuser=0&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AJOqlzUSxP_jbBaFAm6EmMg4L-zrUXOk6A%3A1676374222456&source=hp&biw=1920&bih=975&ei=znDrY8iPGb6p5NoPpMKAwAc&iflsig=AK50M_UAAAAAY-t-3oPAoqyFz0tGjT5UXkDUU0A33iQj&ved=0ahUKEwjIrqbQ9JT9AhW-FFkFHSQhAHgQ4dUDCAc&oq=team+posing+chart&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQDDIHCAAQgAQQGDoICAAQsQMQgwE6BQgAEIAEOggIABCABBCxAzoGCAAQCBAeOgQIABAeUABYni5g22ZoAHAAeACAAVCIAaAHkgECMTeYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZw&sclient=img
Best Wishes,
JimmyT Sends

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

RobertH wrote:

Hey all, br br I’ve been voluntold to take a coup... (show quote)

I used to shoot golf tournaments with similar numbers.
I used a 12' ladder and had the group on a hill outdoors. They were 4 rows deep with a few in front of that kneeling.
RB67 w/90mm lens. Basically a " normal " focal length.
You are outdoors so great flexibility.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

RobertH wrote:

Hey all, br br I’ve been voluntold to take a coup... (show quote)

You were not voluntold, you wanted to do it. Personally, I would hire it out and have all 55 people VOLUNTOLD $5 to $10 toward the image. You will regret it if you do it.

autofocus Loc: North Central Connecticut

Another advantage of shooting from an elevated position is that it should eliminate the sky in the shot which always can create havoc with your exposures.

Tomfl101 Loc: Mount Airy, MD

First start with a high camera angle. Divide the group by 4 an place the tallest toward the back. Separate the shortest 1/4 and place in front of the tallest. Ask medium sized people to kneel in front. If there are children, have them sit in the front row. For us on the second row in with your wide lens at its longest focal length if possible.

rcorne001 Loc: Cary, NC

To add on to the fine advice you have already received, I would suggest shooting in burst mode. It will increase your chance to catch the majority (perhaps all) looking at the camera with their eyes open and mouths closed in at least one of the photos!

Also - try to get them to look to one side or the other and do a countdown from 3. At which time ask them to look at you (and smile!?). That increases the chance of getting a more natural expression from them.

Have fun!

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

rcorne001 wrote:

To add on to the fine advice you have already received, I would suggest shooting in burst mode. It will increase your chance to catch the majority (perhaps all) looking at the camera with their eyes open and mouths closed in at least one of the photos!

Also - try to get them to look to one side or the other and do a countdown from 3. At which time ask them to look at you (and smile!?). That increases the chance of getting a more natural expression from them.

Have fun!

I was just about to offer this same suggestion.

One advantage of shooting in a fast burst is that the background does not change much. That makes it possible for you to swap heads between shots of the burst. If someone is blinking, the blink is usually only in one frame so you can pick another frame for the head. Really only necessary if you have multiple blinkers in different frames.

But people's faces are surprisingly mobile on a short time scale. Sometimes a face is perfectly fine for one tenth of a second and has a terrible expression in the next tenth.

If you do the countdown thing, maybe start your burst at 2.5 instead of 3. The burst will cover the count of 3 but you will get some pre-3 shots and some post-3 shots.

Whatever, take lots of shots.

Dlloyd Loc: Maryland

billnikon wrote:

You were not voluntold, you wanted to do it. Personally, I would hire it out and have all 55 people VOLUNTOLD $5 to $10 toward the image. You will regret it if you do it.

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