Fuji 35mm f/1.4 stopped all the way down.
Beats me, I don't commit that stuff to memory, but it's in the metadata IF I need it.
F22 here. Sunrise over famed Monument Valley, scene of countless movies, TV shows, Commercials, Navajo Lands, Arizona/Utah border , USA.
61mp Sony A7RIV camera, Tamron 17-28mm f2.8 lens, 28mm, ISO 100, f22, 1/30 second, on a tripod. F22 gave me the best sunstars.
Cheers
Quite a few of my recent photographs were shot at f/32 or f/45. Those, along with a few at f/16.
--Bob
JPetrie wrote:
Fuji 35mm f/1.4 stopped all the way down.
f22, sunrise over Brookings lake, Manistee National Forest, Michigan, USA.
50mp Sony A1 camera, Sony 24-105mm f4 G OSS lens, 73mm, ISO 100, f22, 1/40 sec., handheld
JPetrie wrote:
Fuji 35mm f/1.4 stopped all the way down.
The last time I used f/16 often, was before I learned to open up to avoid diffraction limiting of sharpness. That was back in the 1970s.
f/16 was the smallest aperture I would use for non-macro work with 35mm cameras. Most of my lenses back then were sharpest and most-well-corrected between one and two and five stops down from wide open. Determined through extensive testing and experience, my *preferred* working aperture ranges on my Nikkor primes used in the 1980s were:
24mm f/2.8 — f/5.6 to f/11 (best at f/8)
35mm f/2.0 — f/4 to f/11 (best at f/5.6)
50mm f/1.4 — f/2.8 to f/8 (best at f/4)
55mm f/2.8 macro — f/5.6 to f/11 (I copied flat art at f/6.3 for best results)
105mm f/2.5 — f/4 to f/11 (best at f/5.6)
135mm f/2.8 — f/4 to f/11 (best at f/8)
I reserved f/16 for times when I absolutely had to have extreme depth of field.
These days, I use Micro 4/3 gear. I avoid using apertures smaller than f/8 when possible. Most of my work is done between f/4 and f/6.3, which is the sweet range on my f/2.8 zooms and macro. f/8 at 25mm is going to provide a similar depth of field and a similar field of view as a 50mm lens at f/16 on a full frame dSLR or 35mm SLR film camera. My f/2.8 Micro 4/3 lenses all perform their best at f/4, but they are almost as good wide open and down to f/6.3.
I have used f/16 on Micro 4/3, to get a star point effect in specular highlights, and to give a scene the overall look of using a 1970s style #2 Softar filter. But to get detail in landscapes, etc., I consult my DOFC app on my iPhone or Mac. (DOFC = Depth of Field Calculator) I rarely need an aperture smaller than f/6.3.
cjc2
Loc: Hellertown PA
As a sports guy, I normally shoot wide open. When I shoot ENG/PJ it can be F8 and be there! Best of luck.
rmalarz wrote:
Quite a few of my recent photographs were shot at f/32 or f/45. Those, along with a few at f/16.
--Bob
As you well should with the large format gear you use, Bob!
If you'd attached the image, we could show you why you should have stopped long ago.
joecichjr
Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA
gwilliams6 wrote:
F22 here. Sunrise over famed Monument Valley, scene of countless movies, TV shows, Commercials, Navajo Lands, Arizona/Utah border , USA.
61mp Sony A7RIV camera, Tamron 17-28mm f2.8 lens, 28mm, ISO 100, f22, 1/30 second, on a tripod. F22 gave me the best sunstars.
Cheers
An amazingly beautiful, impactful shot 🔆🔆🔆🔆🔆
joecichjr
Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA
gwilliams6 wrote:
f22, sunrise over Brookings lake, Manistee National Forest, Michigan, USA.
50mp Sony A1 camera, Sony 24-105mm f4 G OSS lens, 73mm, ISO 100, f22, 1/40 sec., handheld
Stunningly beautiful, and that light is sure magnificent 🔆💛🔆💛🔆
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