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Ball Head for Birds In Flight
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Feb 11, 2018 15:19:06   #
Steve Perry Loc: Sylvania, Ohio
 
To me, it looks more like missed focus than movement. I don't think you need a ballhead.

The lens may benefit from AF Fine Tuning - it just doesn't look like it's nailing focus like it should - but this is a maybe.

If these are heavy crops, the other problem - and even the more likely problem - is that the distance is a bit too far. The further the subject is, the more susceptible it is to atmospheric degradation. Variances in hot and cold air cause diffraction with affects both the sharpness of the image and the camera's ability to focus. Plus, when you need a heavy crop, there just isn't as much information to work with. It's hard to get good feather detail from couple football fields away with any lens.

My #1 suggestion at this point is to ignore the birds when they are that are that far away and only shoot when they are taking up at least 1/3rd of the frame - preferably half the frame (that's what I do). You'd be surprised at how many problems like this are solved by putting more subject in the frame.

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Feb 11, 2018 15:29:45   #
Steve Perry Loc: Sylvania, Ohio
 
Some examples. All of the images below followed the guideline of keeping at least 1/3rd of the frame filled with bird - most of them are 1/2 frame or better. Makes a real difference (download to see the full size and detail).

You can see more here:

https://backcountrygallery.com/wildlife-action-shots/


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Feb 11, 2018 16:10:33   #
Bunkershot Loc: Central Florida
 
Yup, clearly I was not patient enough or lucky enough to get close enough to the birds. I don't have a problem with that lens in any other situation, so I'll take your advice on getting closer. Incidentally Steve, I've read your e-book on the Nikon focusing system. Best $15 or so that I've spent. Literally solved all my focusing problems. Thanks for all your advice.

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Feb 11, 2018 16:32:37   #
Steve Perry Loc: Sylvania, Ohio
 
Bunkershot wrote:
Yup, clearly I was not patient enough or lucky enough to get close enough to the birds. I don't have a problem with that lens in any other situation, so I'll take your advice on getting closer. Incidentally Steve, I've read your e-book on the Nikon focusing system. Best $15 or so that I've spent. Literally solved all my focusing problems. Thanks for all your advice.


Thanks!

It does take time, practice, and patience. Plus, I know it can be tough not to shoot when the birds are too far away! Good luck with it and whatever you do, don't give up. BIF is my favorite kind of photography and I promise it's worth the effort :)

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Feb 11, 2018 17:35:58   #
Bunkershot Loc: Central Florida
 
amfoto1 wrote:
I agree with Steve Perry... your best bet is probably to keep handholding those shots and simply use a faster shutter speed (you may need to increase your ISO to be able to do so).

I've seen folks use a "shoulder stock" type rig for that sort of thing, too.... though usually I think it's with lenses longer than 300mm.

For extended shooting sessions, I've used monopods... One I have fitted with a medium sized ballhead, the other simply mounts directly. However, ALL my longer telephotos have tripod mounting rings: 70-200mm, 300mm, 100-400mm and 500mm. While it's possible to use a monopod fitted to the camera body instead of the lens, it's a lot more comfortable with the tripod ring, which also allows a lot more convenient transition from horizontal/landscape to vertical/portrait orientation. On my monopod with the ballhead, the head can be "tipped off to one side" to re-orient the camera, but that's less well balanced. AFAIK, this is not possible with the "pistol grip" style ballheads shown in some of the previous responses.... You'd need the L-bracket on the camera body that someone else suggested, but that adds cost and bulk.

Note: Which Nikkor AF-P 70-300mm do you have? I noticed there's one without VR... the other with it for about $50 more. This is a situation where VR might be helpful... handholding those shots or even on a tripod. However, higher shutter speeds that you probably need anyway for BIF shots, tend to make make VR less important (and some Nikon shooters turn it off anyway, feel that it slows AF performance).

Finally, are you certain it's "camera shake blur" you're seeing? Too slow shutter speed also can lead to "subject movement blur", which even the sturdiest tripod setup in the world can't help resolve.

"Unsharp images" also may be due to missed focus. I don't use modern Nikon gear and can't say for certain, but I think the "AF-P" lenses use a "stepper motor" to drive the AF, similar to Canon's "STM" lenses. In the Canon system those are faster than cheaper micro motor lenses, but "USM" or "ultrasonic motor" lenses are 2X to 4X faster focusing than STM/stepper, making the USM/ultrasonic much more preferable when shooting moving subjects. The stepper motor lenses just can't maintain focus lock on faster moving subjects as well. I think "AF-S" Nikkors use a "Silent Wave" ultrasonic focus drive system that's comparable to Canon's USM. Most sports/action shooters look for ultrasonic focus drive... I sure know I do!

My point, though, is to be sure that you're addressing the actual problem.
I agree with Steve Perry... your best bet is proba... (show quote)

My AF-P has the VR.

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Sep 15, 2022 17:28:03   #
Dik
 
Bunkershot wrote:
I've been getting serious about shooting BIF for some time now. All of my practice has been hand-held. One or two images have been sharp, but not tack sharp. I'm shooting with a Nikkor AF-P 70-300mm on a D7100. After my last outing I decided that I needed to be using a tripod. So began my search for a head. What I discovered is that because my lens does not have a lens mounting collar, a Gimbal head simply won't work. I didn't realize that when using a Gimbal head, the lens attaches to the head rather than the camera being attached to the head. My question for the experts is: is there a ball head that can be used on my very substantial Manfrotto tripod that will enable me to follow BIF with almost as much smoothness as the Gimbal head? I've never seen a ball head in use, but have perhaps an unfounded perception that a ball head cannot come close to the smoothness of a Gimbal. Surely, for those of us who do not have long lenses that have mounting collars, there must be something on the market that will enable us to do BIF with 300mm collarless lenses. Thanks for your help...Bunkershot
I've been getting serious about shooting BIF for s... (show quote)


I strongly recommend a gimbal head for BIF. is your current lens has no foot you should use a long A/S QR plate to balance your camera on the gimbal.
Another poster recommended a rotating chair which is an excellent idea, and if you add a counterweighted boom to the chair, you can shoot the bird wherever it flies.


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Jan 10, 2024 13:44:07   #
Longlens24 Loc: Cedar Park, Texas
 
My best BIF shots are on my monopod, ISO 1200, 70-300 VFR lens, or using 400mm lens @ F11 ( for DOF)>
Stan

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