I have a substantial number of regular 8 and super 8 movies on 200 foot (5 inch) reels that I'd like to digitize, before they degrade. Kodachromes seem to age well because Kodachrome ages well in the dark and the individual frames get very little light, even in the days that I projected them a lot. There are several modestly priced scanners available through Amazon and other sellers.There are two models by Wolverine (at $299 and $399) but I have heard some less than stellar (to be kind) reviews of these. Kodak has one now (REELZ) and there is one on Amazon called the eyesen. Price of each of those is in the same $299-$399 zone. Does anyone have any firsthand knowledge of or experience with any of these? Once I finish scanning, I could unload the scanner on eBay and recoup at least half of my money.

Second question: they seem to list scanning at either 20 fps or 30 fps (that's output, not speed of scanning). Regular 8 ran at 16 fps and super 8 at 18 fps so how would one correct the scanned output?

I have not scanned my large 8mm reel containing all my spliced reels because it and my projector were stolen years ago from the back seat of my car. However, if I were to do it I would set up a flat white piece of poster board on the wall, darken the room by covering the windows, and run the film on a projector and video it with a 4K camera on a tripod. This would allow you to scan in real time, rather than frame by frame. And you could easily improve the image and the speed in a video editor like Premiere Pro. And if there is a sound track you could tweak that as well with an audio editor like Adobe Audition which works together with Adobe Premiere Pro within the Premiere Pro timeline.

Everything I have read on film scanners has a lot of negatives, very long time to digitize a frame at a time, damaging the film, frequent stalls and need to watch the scanner during the entire process, unsatisfactory results.

I believe 16mm film runs at 24fps so there should be no frame rate mismatch there if you set the camera video to 24 fps. So I would start with the 16mm film. I would adjust the size of the projected image to get the clearest and best image with the naked eye.

This is just a guess but if you experiment with different shutter speeds and fps videoing the 8mm film you may be able to improve flicker due to mismatched frame rates. There are also youtube videos on techniques to remove light flicker in Premiere Pro that may work on frame rate mismatch flicker. But when you get the best techniques figured out, it should work for the rest of your project.

I wish I still had my 8mm reel to give this a try. Good luck.

What about a projector with a 5-bladed shutter? As I understand, most movie projectors have a rotating shutter with 3 blades, to add more "flickers" to the projected image. If you only had 16 flickers per second, your eye would notice it. But 16 x 3 = 48 flickers, and the persistence of your eye smooths this out. So 18 fps gives you 54 flickers per second, and 24 fps gives you 72. But a video camera shoots 30 frames per second, so none of these match up. But with a 5-bladed shutter, you get 18 x 5 = 90, or 24 x 5 = 120. These both divide evenly by 30, a better match. However, 16 x 5 = 80, which still does not divide evenly by 30. I have bought a 5-bladed projector on eBay, but haven't tried this out yet.