Vintage cameras: I have several all mechanical cameras that are 50 to 60 years old. I have been leaving the shutters in the "B" setting and released as I assumed this would create less...

ZenCam

I have several all mechanical cameras that are 50 to 60 years old. I have been leaving the shutters in the "B" setting and released as I assumed this would create less stress on the springs and levers. Am I right in doing this?

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

I can't see where leaving the dial at "B" would be any different than any other setting.

But yes, do not leave the shutter cocked, trip it, no matter what the dial is set to.

BebuLamar

Longshadow wrote:

I can't see where leaving the dial at "B" would be any different than any other setting.

But yes, do not leave the shutter cocked, trip it, no matter what the dial is set to.

I am not sure but I guess setting the shutter speed at certain speed does do some tension to the timing mechanism. Like I said I am not familiar with how mechanical camera does the timing.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

BebuLamar wrote:

I am not sure but I guess setting the shutter speed at certain speed does do some tension to the timing mechanism. Like I said I am not familiar with how mechanical camera does the timing.

I don't know exactly how the "selector" works either, but it doesn't "wind" anything that I am aware.
The film advance lever "winds" the shutter.

ZenCam

Thank you all. I really appreciate your input.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

ZenCam wrote:

I have several all mechanical cameras that are 50 to 60 years old. I have been leaving the shutters in the "B" setting and released as I assumed this would create less stress on the springs and levers. Am I right in doing this?

YES

therwol Loc: USA

Longshadow wrote:

The film advance lever "winds" the shutter.

And cocks the spring that controls the shutter, and springs can weaken over time. Better not to leave the shutter cocked for a long period of time if you plan to use the camera again. There is another issue with cameras that old. Lubricants can dry out and become sticky. If your camera or cameras are mantle pieces, it doesn't matter, but if you plan to use an old camera, a CLA is a good idea. The shop doing the job can check the timing of the shutter at the same time.

ZenCam

Yes a good CLA is in order for my old treasures. The optics are phenomenal on these old gems. I have 20 X 24's that are so crisp and beautiful.

MrPhotog

therwol wrote:

. . .but if you plan to use an old camera, a CLA is a good idea. The shop doing the job can check the timing of the shutter at the same time.

Have the CLA done soon.

People who have the knowledge to repair these old cameras are retiring. The parts haven’t been made for decades, and probably never will be again. Used cameras suitable for donating parts might still be available—but those are disappearing, too.

Prices for parts and labor are going to be higher two or three years from now, and will never be cheaper than now. And prices for camera repairs are far from cheap now !

If your cameras still work now, cleaning out the old lube and replacing it with fresh, new, lubricants, will give them another 30 to 50 years of additional service. By then who knows what technology we will be using.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

ZenCam wrote:

I have several all mechanical cameras that are 50 to 60 years old. I have been leaving the shutters in the "B" setting and released as I assumed this would create less stress on the springs and levers. Am I right in doing this?

Once the shutter is tripped, there is no more stress. There is no cocked in a mirrored camera. The mirror should be in the down position.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Offhand, I'd say you should click the shutters once a month. As I said, that's "offhand."

https://www.keh.com/blog/how-to-store-your-gear
https://www.publicstorage.com/blog/vintage/storing-and-caring-for-vintage-cameras-and-equipment
https://www.lifestorage.com/blog/storage/tips-for-camera-storage/
https://jolsonweddings.com/education/dry-box-for-cameras-patu
https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/61232/what-is-the-best-long-term-storage-for-a-film-camera
https://www.photoworkout.com/how-to-store-cameras-and-lenses-at-home/

agillot

I dont think so , but on the other hand , i would only use slower shutter speeds on old cameras . A little like not racing a old car .

BebuLamar

MrPhotog wrote:

Have the CLA done soon. br br People who have th... (show quote)

I have serious doubt about CLA. How much does it cost to have my Kodak Retina IIa for CLA? How about Yashica Lynx 14e? When they do the CLA exactly what they do?
I would imagine doing a true CLA for either camera would cost $500 and that's only for the labor assuming they don't need any parts.

larryepage Loc: North Texas area

therwol wrote:

And cocks the spring that controls the shutter, and springs can weaken over time. Better not to leave the shutter cocked for a long period of time if you plan to use the camera again. There is another issue with cameras that old. Lubricants can dry out and become sticky. If your camera or cameras are mantle pieces, it doesn't matter, but if you plan to use an old camera, a CLA is a good idea. The shop doing the job can check the timing of the shutter at the same time.

When I was repairing Lionel/American Flyer electric trains and several brands of electric shavers, many were brought in completely non-operational. After a thorough CLA (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust), a high percentage of them left the shop running like new, with absolutely no parts replacement required.

Also...be aware that many leaf shutter mechanisms have two separate timing mechanisms...one for speeds at and above 1/30 or sometimes 1/60, and one for speeds slower than that. Several years ago, I had my Voightlander Vitomatic II CLA'd at a local shop. It came back working perfectly at speeds 1/60 and faster, but very sluggishly at slower speeds. Had to eventually take it somewhere else to find someone who knew and understood how to do it correctly.

therwol Loc: USA

BebuLamar wrote:

I have serious doubt about CLA. How much does it cost to have my Kodak Retina IIa for CLA? How about Yashica Lynx 14e? When they do the CLA exactly what they do?
I would imagine doing a true CLA for either camera would cost $500 and that's only for the labor assuming they don't need any parts.

Here is reality. Before electronic timing, all shutters used a mechanical mechanism to determine shutter speed. Those mechanisms require lubrication, and when the lubrication fails, the timing will fail. Other mechanisms in old cameras also require lubrication. You have to decide whether a CLA is worth it to you, and on many cameras, it will likely cost more than the value of the camera. If you're still using your Nikon F or F2 or vintage Leica, then it may be worth it to you to keep your camera working properly.