Wags wrote:
I will be arriving in Big Bend National Park this coming Monday. (I bought a class B RV-and am taking my first road trip with it.) I’m very interested in your suggestions for photo opps at the park-drives and/or hikes. Regarding hikes, I’m probably capable of easy to moderate hikes around 4 miles or so—73 3/4 years old. Thank you!
I think you'll like Big Bend, if only because you've made the effort to learn about the park and have planned your travel. I'm almost exactly your age and still visit every two years or so (most recently November, 2021) now that I live just a day's drive away. My first time there was in 1973, so I guess you could say I really love Big Bend.
Big Bend is a huge park, and since you haven't mentioned a couple of important pieces of information about your trip (where you're camping and how many days you have in the park) it's hard to give you lots of specific information. If you're camping outside the park, you will want to get started early every day because, contrary to what others have said, Big Bend WILL BE BUSY next week, meaning that there will be a line to enter the park and driving both the road to the Basin (the mountainous area in the center of the park) and to Santa Elena Canyon (what I think is the park's best feature and offers terrific photographic opportunities) will be subject to road closures due to the lack of available parking. Both of those restrictions were in effect during my November visit, which was well before Thanksgiving and not nearly as busy as the park will be when you're there.
If you have one day, I'd suggest driving the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, which (once you get to it) is a paved route of thirty miles that ends at Santa Elena Canyon; you'll return the same way. Take the easy, short walk at the Sam Nail Ranch near the start of the drive. There's a longer walk to the abandoned Homer Wilson Ranch (still only about a mile round-trip) that I think is worthwhile, but if you're not up to that (steep uphill return and no shade, carry water) you can get a nice shot of the ranch & Carousel Mountain from the parking lot. Stop at Tuff Canyon and visit all three viewpoints on the rim; it's fun to walk down to the canyon's floor so you see it from the bottom but again you'll have to consider the hike out. One of your best views of Cerro Castellan, the peak that dominates the area, is here. Be sure to stop at the Mule Ears viewpoint; I think the best shot is right from the parking area (where there's also a huge patch of prickly pear dominating the park's signature plant, lechuguilla), but be aware of other interesting views from the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. The light here will be better in the afternoon, so you'll certainly want to stop on your return drive, but the Mule Ears are fun to see and photograph at any time. Sotol Vista is another stop that will be better in the afternoon for photos but since there's a 360° view from here, you can get good photos whenever you're there. Stop at Castolon, the historic district near the Rio Grande, which has old ranching equipment and buildings that are fun to shoot, and a good view of Cerro Castellan from a different angle. The road from here to Santa Elena offers a few views of the Rio Grande; look for safe pullouts. There's a viewpoint for the canyon near road's end that is "ok" if you can't get into the canyon itself but do see what the parking situation at the trailhead is because that's where the river exits the canyon and the scene is spectacular. As others have mentioned, carry an old pair of sneakers that you don't mind getting muddy, because that's what usually happens when you cross Terlingua Creek to hike into the canyon... although last November, much to my surprise, the crossing was dry. Depends on recent precipitation. If you can park and hike into the canyon, you biggest climb will be on an easy paved trail with a railing, and then the trail drops to the river. Take it until you can't go any further without walking in the river... which some people do. I think the hike in Santa Elena is one of the best national park experiences anywhere, and it's no more than two miles round-trip. Return to the main road the same way you came, via the Ross Maxwell... do not take the dirt road (called Old Maverick) unless you want to shake your rig to pieces. If you still have time left in the day, you can try to drive the seven miles up to the Basin; the light will be good along the road during the afternoon and the views are spectacular. There's a visitor center in the Basin and a short, paved trail to the Window viewpoint... I doubt you'll have time to hike to the Window itself by then but the viewpoint trail will be fine. If there happens to be a parking place at the Lost Mine Trail, you could take a one-mile hike up to a spectacular viewpoint of a canyon you won't see otherwise, and you'll get a great look at Casa Grande, another park icon, as well.
Another day could be spent with more exploration of the Basin. As others have mentioned, the Window Trail is a great hike. Try to park in the signed area at the campground to shorten it a little and you'll also miss some of a steep uphill on the return that you'll have to hike if you park by the visitor center. (If you happen to be camping in the Basin, there's a shot spur that leads to the Window Trail that saves you more than a mile!). Again, if you get lucky and see a parking place at the Lost Mine Trail, take it if you're up to the two-mile out and back hike (the entire trail is 4.8 miles but the view at one mile is almost as good as at trail's end and you'll save about a 700' climb) and you'll get some great photos. If you have more time, stop at the main visitor center at Panther Junction and then drive east in the direction of Rio Grande Village, although you might not make it all the way before dark. A stop at Dugout Wells on the way will bring you to a good bird-watching site and generally interesting area to spend thirty minutes or so. If you can continue toward the village, there's a terrific pullout for watching/photographing the sunset (and it's usually spectacular in Big Bend) around the thirteen mile marker, on the left. Great view of the Sierra del Carmen mountains in Mexico, which will turn pink in the setting sun.
If on this or another day you make it to road's end at Rio Grande Village, I'd suggest taking the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail which starts from campsite #18 in the campground. A short climb brings you to a great overlook of the Rio Grande as well as the Chisos Mountains, and the Sierra del Carmens are directly in front of you. A short spur will take you to the river itself, and the trail starts with an interesting boardwalk (of all things) that crosses a small pond... totally unexpected in the Chihuahuan Desert! On the other side of the Village, you can hike about .3 mile to a great overlook of the Rio Grande as it flows through Hot Springs Canyon. Others have mentioned hiking into Boquillas Canyon. That's an easy hike (less than 2 miles round-trip) that, to me, is a letdown after seeing Santa Elena. But you'll still get some good photos and I hike there every time I visit even though it's not quite as spectacular to me. If you bring your passport, you can take a rowboat across the Rio Grande and visit Boquillas, Mexico. The border crossing is open Daily except Monday & Tuesday and there's a good restaurant there.
I haven't posted many photos from my November trip yet, but here's a link to the ones I have, which will give you some idea of the Ross Maxwell Drive and Santa Elena Canyon:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sonoradick/albums/72157720173121258And here's an older link to an album with some other shots:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sonoradick/albums/72157644630852332Hope this gives you some ideas. Have a great trip, Wags!