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Big Bend National Park
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Mar 4, 2022 13:32:30   #
DRM Loc: NC
 
Wags wrote:
I will be arriving in Big Bend National Park this coming Monday. (I bought a class B RV-and am taking my first road trip with it.) I’m very interested in your suggestions for photo opps at the park-drives and/or hikes. Regarding hikes, I’m probably capable of easy to moderate hikes around 4 miles or so—73 3/4 years old. Thank you!


Big Bend is, well, big. Encompassing about 1,250 square miles, it is the 14th largest national park, seventh largest outside Alaska. Photographic opportunities range from the "island" of the Chisos mountains rising to over 7,800 feet, to the park's desert middle, to marshland and river canyons along the Rio Grande. It is also a dark sky park and offers wonderful night skies opportunities. Here are a few examples:

https://www.drexmillerphotography.com/ecommercegalleries/selected-national-parks/10391283-52724-photo-16
https://www.drexmillerphotography.com/ecommercegalleries/selected-national-parks/10391263-52724-photo-14
https://www.drexmillerphotography.com/ecommercegalleries/selected-national-parks/10391268-52724-photo-19
https://www.drexmillerphotography.com/ecommercegalleries/selected-national-parks/10391269-52724-photo-21
https://www.drexmillerphotography.com/ecommercegalleries/selected-national-parks/10391280-52724-photo-10
https://www.drexmillerphotography.com/ecommercegalleries/selected-national-parks/10391282-52724-photo-17

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Mar 4, 2022 14:04:11   #
druthven
 
RolandDieter wrote:
Big Ben is very desolate except during elections. This is where the last-minute votes for LBJ always came from. It was amazing ... all those votes within a minute or two and they all voted in alphabetical order.


Pretty much correct except the infamous ballot box 13 that held the votes that put LBJ over the top in 1948 came from Alice, a town in Duval county Texas which is about 290 miles as the crow flies southeast of Big Bend.

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Mar 4, 2022 14:57:21   #
Judy795
 
I was there briefly in 2015. Took the road to the end where one could see the gap in the granite for the Rio Grande River. OnStar works well in isolated areas. Don't ask me how I know that but I was sure glad to have it.

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Mar 4, 2022 17:34:50   #
alandg46 Loc: Boerne, Texas
 
RolandDieter wrote:
Big Ben is very desolate except during elections. This is where the last-minute votes for LBJ always came from. It was amazing ... all those votes within a minute or two and they all voted in alphabetical order.


That was Jim Wells County

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Mar 4, 2022 18:09:42   #
druthven
 
alandg46 wrote:
That was Jim Wells County


I stand corrected. Alice is indeed in Jim Wells county. Got off track thinking of George Parr the Duke of Duval who was the election fixer back in those days.

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Mar 4, 2022 19:08:21   #
SonoraDick Loc: Tucson
 
Wags wrote:
I will be arriving in Big Bend National Park this coming Monday. (I bought a class B RV-and am taking my first road trip with it.) I’m very interested in your suggestions for photo opps at the park-drives and/or hikes. Regarding hikes, I’m probably capable of easy to moderate hikes around 4 miles or so—73 3/4 years old. Thank you!


I think you'll like Big Bend, if only because you've made the effort to learn about the park and have planned your travel. I'm almost exactly your age and still visit every two years or so (most recently November, 2021) now that I live just a day's drive away. My first time there was in 1973, so I guess you could say I really love Big Bend.

Big Bend is a huge park, and since you haven't mentioned a couple of important pieces of information about your trip (where you're camping and how many days you have in the park) it's hard to give you lots of specific information. If you're camping outside the park, you will want to get started early every day because, contrary to what others have said, Big Bend WILL BE BUSY next week, meaning that there will be a line to enter the park and driving both the road to the Basin (the mountainous area in the center of the park) and to Santa Elena Canyon (what I think is the park's best feature and offers terrific photographic opportunities) will be subject to road closures due to the lack of available parking. Both of those restrictions were in effect during my November visit, which was well before Thanksgiving and not nearly as busy as the park will be when you're there.

If you have one day, I'd suggest driving the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, which (once you get to it) is a paved route of thirty miles that ends at Santa Elena Canyon; you'll return the same way. Take the easy, short walk at the Sam Nail Ranch near the start of the drive. There's a longer walk to the abandoned Homer Wilson Ranch (still only about a mile round-trip) that I think is worthwhile, but if you're not up to that (steep uphill return and no shade, carry water) you can get a nice shot of the ranch & Carousel Mountain from the parking lot. Stop at Tuff Canyon and visit all three viewpoints on the rim; it's fun to walk down to the canyon's floor so you see it from the bottom but again you'll have to consider the hike out. One of your best views of Cerro Castellan, the peak that dominates the area, is here. Be sure to stop at the Mule Ears viewpoint; I think the best shot is right from the parking area (where there's also a huge patch of prickly pear dominating the park's signature plant, lechuguilla), but be aware of other interesting views from the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. The light here will be better in the afternoon, so you'll certainly want to stop on your return drive, but the Mule Ears are fun to see and photograph at any time. Sotol Vista is another stop that will be better in the afternoon for photos but since there's a 360° view from here, you can get good photos whenever you're there. Stop at Castolon, the historic district near the Rio Grande, which has old ranching equipment and buildings that are fun to shoot, and a good view of Cerro Castellan from a different angle. The road from here to Santa Elena offers a few views of the Rio Grande; look for safe pullouts. There's a viewpoint for the canyon near road's end that is "ok" if you can't get into the canyon itself but do see what the parking situation at the trailhead is because that's where the river exits the canyon and the scene is spectacular. As others have mentioned, carry an old pair of sneakers that you don't mind getting muddy, because that's what usually happens when you cross Terlingua Creek to hike into the canyon... although last November, much to my surprise, the crossing was dry. Depends on recent precipitation. If you can park and hike into the canyon, you biggest climb will be on an easy paved trail with a railing, and then the trail drops to the river. Take it until you can't go any further without walking in the river... which some people do. I think the hike in Santa Elena is one of the best national park experiences anywhere, and it's no more than two miles round-trip. Return to the main road the same way you came, via the Ross Maxwell... do not take the dirt road (called Old Maverick) unless you want to shake your rig to pieces. If you still have time left in the day, you can try to drive the seven miles up to the Basin; the light will be good along the road during the afternoon and the views are spectacular. There's a visitor center in the Basin and a short, paved trail to the Window viewpoint... I doubt you'll have time to hike to the Window itself by then but the viewpoint trail will be fine. If there happens to be a parking place at the Lost Mine Trail, you could take a one-mile hike up to a spectacular viewpoint of a canyon you won't see otherwise, and you'll get a great look at Casa Grande, another park icon, as well.

Another day could be spent with more exploration of the Basin. As others have mentioned, the Window Trail is a great hike. Try to park in the signed area at the campground to shorten it a little and you'll also miss some of a steep uphill on the return that you'll have to hike if you park by the visitor center. (If you happen to be camping in the Basin, there's a shot spur that leads to the Window Trail that saves you more than a mile!). Again, if you get lucky and see a parking place at the Lost Mine Trail, take it if you're up to the two-mile out and back hike (the entire trail is 4.8 miles but the view at one mile is almost as good as at trail's end and you'll save about a 700' climb) and you'll get some great photos. If you have more time, stop at the main visitor center at Panther Junction and then drive east in the direction of Rio Grande Village, although you might not make it all the way before dark. A stop at Dugout Wells on the way will bring you to a good bird-watching site and generally interesting area to spend thirty minutes or so. If you can continue toward the village, there's a terrific pullout for watching/photographing the sunset (and it's usually spectacular in Big Bend) around the thirteen mile marker, on the left. Great view of the Sierra del Carmen mountains in Mexico, which will turn pink in the setting sun.

If on this or another day you make it to road's end at Rio Grande Village, I'd suggest taking the Rio Grande Village Nature Trail which starts from campsite #18 in the campground. A short climb brings you to a great overlook of the Rio Grande as well as the Chisos Mountains, and the Sierra del Carmens are directly in front of you. A short spur will take you to the river itself, and the trail starts with an interesting boardwalk (of all things) that crosses a small pond... totally unexpected in the Chihuahuan Desert! On the other side of the Village, you can hike about .3 mile to a great overlook of the Rio Grande as it flows through Hot Springs Canyon. Others have mentioned hiking into Boquillas Canyon. That's an easy hike (less than 2 miles round-trip) that, to me, is a letdown after seeing Santa Elena. But you'll still get some good photos and I hike there every time I visit even though it's not quite as spectacular to me. If you bring your passport, you can take a rowboat across the Rio Grande and visit Boquillas, Mexico. The border crossing is open Daily except Monday & Tuesday and there's a good restaurant there.

I haven't posted many photos from my November trip yet, but here's a link to the ones I have, which will give you some idea of the Ross Maxwell Drive and Santa Elena Canyon: https://www.flickr.com/photos/sonoradick/albums/72157720173121258

And here's an older link to an album with some other shots:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sonoradick/albums/72157644630852332

Hope this gives you some ideas. Have a great trip, Wags!

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Mar 4, 2022 19:11:19   #
Stan Wieg Loc: Fair Oaks, CA
 
It's not a hike, but there is a very nice fossil museum/exhibit in the northeast section of the park, just off the main road. I second the notion of wading across the Rio Grande too.
You might also want to download the National Parks App and then load the park's map into your phone. It will work off the GPS in your phone and show turn by turn directions even when there is no cell signal.
The park was jammed with spring break folks when we were there a couple years ago and we could not get a campsite inside the park. We stayed in a "no frills" RV camp on hwy 2627 about ten miles east of the entrance which had plenty of sites. Good luck - it's pretty!

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Mar 4, 2022 20:24:29   #
Wags Loc: Mequon, WI
 
My thanks to all of you for your great ideas and suggestions. I’m so looking forward to getting to Big Bend. I’ll post some shots. Thank you!

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Mar 4, 2022 23:13:46   #
whatdat Loc: Del Valle, Tx.
 
Great pics, Dick. A good series showing the diversity of the park. Glad to see the long house still standing on Maverick Road.

Michael

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Mar 5, 2022 00:35:52   #
SonoraDick Loc: Tucson
 
whatdat wrote:
Great pics, Dick. A good series showing the diversity of the park. Glad to see the long house still standing on Maverick Road.

Michael


Thanks, Michael. The NPS has done some work to protect the roof, but otherwise the structure looks to be in good condition and it's still open so one can go in and walk around (although even a short guy like me has to duck) and imagine what it must have been like to live and sleep here.

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Mar 5, 2022 00:40:16   #
whatdat Loc: Del Valle, Tx.
 
SonoraDick wrote:
Thanks, Michael. The NPS has done some work to protect the roof, but otherwise the structure looks to be in good condition and it's still open so one can go in and walk around (although even a short guy like me has to duck) and imagine what it must have been like to live and sleep here.


The story about the family that lived & survived there is phenomenal

Michael

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Mar 5, 2022 09:22:03   #
zug55 Loc: Naivasha, Kenya, and Austin, Texas
 
I have been to Big Bend many times, and I have hiked many trails. As others pointed out, Big Bend can be pretty busy during Spring Break. So make sure you have a reservation to camp. There are three campground in the park, and there are some commercial RV parks in the Terlingua area.

There are many hikes, from serious to moderate to easy. The best moderate hike is the Lost Mine Trail. It is about 1.5 hours up, but you have a good trail. You have nice mountain views so this is definitely worth it. This is the only moderate hike in the mountains--the others are strenuous.

There are a number of shorter and easier trails. The Boquillas Canyon and the Santa Elena Canyon trails are very rewarding. Some recommend the Windows trail that starts in the Chisos Basin. I find that trail less rewarding--there actually is not that much to see. Plus you first go downhilll--and you have to climb it all back.

Their are a number of nice desert trails that are pretty flat and in the easy to moderate range. One of my favorite ones is the Balanced Rock trail in the Grapevine Hills (the end of that trail is a little rough). Bring water, hat, sun screen. Others mentioned the overlook next to Rio Grande Village--it is a 10 minute hike up--a great spot for sunrises and sunsets.

Drives: the Ross Maxwell Drive is scenic, with many opportunities for foto stops and short hikes. The most scenic drive in the area is highway 170 from Lajitas to Presidio (well, only to Redford, the rest is not so nice) along the Rio Grande through the Big Bend State Park.

Keep in mind: Big Bend is big. It takes time to move from spot to spot within the park. Bring plenty of water. There is limited availability of gasoline in the park. There are gas stations in Marathon, Alpine, and Terlingua. Food: there is a restaurant at the lodge in the Chisos Basin, the only one in the park. Closest dining outside the park is in Terlingua. There are small stores at the campgrounds--the biggest in Chisos Basin.

Here is the Flickr album of one of my trips to Big Bend.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/zug55/albums/72157625628449351

I love the serene beauty of the park. Enjoy your trip!

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Mar 5, 2022 09:48:30   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
zug55 wrote:
...

Keep in mind: Big Bend is big. It takes time to move from spot to spot within the park.

...

I love the serene beauty of the park. Enjoy your trip!


I don't know if you are still reading, or if you are concentrating on getting to the park.

One thing that has not been mentioned is that the major paved roads in the park are quite good and cover a lot of open space. The speed limit, though, is 45 mph, if I remember correctly. There will be major temptation to drive faster than that in many places. Don't do it. Enforcement is generally pretty aggressive, and a citation from a park ranger will ruin your day. In particular, if you come from the north, you will enter the boundary of the park and encounter the park speed limit many miles before you reach the entrance gate.

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Mar 6, 2022 23:29:07   #
OleMe Loc: Montgomery Co., MD
 
My favs: Chisos Canyon, Santa Elana Canyon, River Road - spectacular views of the Rio Grande. Ft. Davis is interesting and there is atgevery nice McDonald Observatory near by. They offer night time telescopic views but book ahead. Nice state campground just north of town.

Most every road goes thru Whacko Marfa, known for ecectic art. Get dark sky shots from RV park just outside of Valentine, TX. Nice camp ground in Chisos Canyon. Cellular service there and in Marfa. GAS UP before going into park.

DO load google maps which are great - better than Garmin. Only need cellular to find restauranrs, Dairy Queen (Marfa).

Check out my album: bronord.com/pics/big.bend

Enjoy the trip to this uniquely beautiful park.

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